Nuke-E

$500 for the wiring harness sounded expensive until I saw 19 hours of shop time!

Is your truck able to read out a diagnostic code on the dash? Just curious what the first symptoms were.

I had a SM code years ago on mine, and the instrument panel gave me the two digit code.  I found a service manual published somewhere that had a code description that said the neutral button switch was erratic.  I was able to unplug it from the shifter (which also unplugged the button you use to shift to reverse), and finish the trip relying on it shifting to neutral automatically each time I turned the key off. Fortunately, in my case, the problem was the spring under the plastic button cap getting caught on the microswitch.

2 hours ago, rickeieio said:

I'd start by looking at the harness near the driver side hood hinge.  Likely pinch point there, and a handy place to stand when doing service.  Feel for pinched/crushed wires.

I've talked about this before--especially on the 2nd gen Volvos, this is a common failure point.  Catching the hood hinge, cut zip ties from service work/bumper repair, etc., can either pinch the harness or leave it vulnerable to chafing on the bumper bracket.  If it gets loose on the run across the lower edge of the hood, it can also be split in half by the torsion bars that help support the hood.

It should be a somewhat regular inspection task to examine that part of the harness. It only takes a small rub to let corrosion get started, and I've seen where more than a foot and a half of wire needed to be replaced by the time the light failed.  If you're lucky, the first wire to break is a turn signal, parking light, or temperature sensor wire; if you're really unlucky, the ground wire breaks first and everything attached to the hood goes dark.

It was dumb luck the first time I stumbled upon it, but I've lost count of how many times I've seen it since.

5 minutes ago, Alie&Jim's Carrilite said:

Update!

On my headlights, they are the T2 type bulb socket. The harness end that the bulb plugs into has 3 wires, ground and 2 powers.  When connecting the harness plug to the bulb, the low beam power wire was pushing up out of the socket instead of connecting onto the bulb connector.  Connector is only 23 years old....

If you need a quick fix, you should be able to pry up the release tab on the contact and get it back in place.  If not, any auto parts store should have the connector with a pigtail.

Jim,

Other places that might cause trouble include the daytime running light module, DRL relay, master light switch, as well as the interrupt switch and dimmer switch. The basic functions (high and low beam, not including flash to pass or DRL) are essentially kept separate left and right starting at the fuse box), which means that one side working doesn't let you rule anything out.  The fact that both high beams work does help quite a bit. I'm assuming no power at all at the terminal at the bulb connector.

Since high beams work on both sides (I assume fully switched on--flash to pass is a different circuit), you know both circuits (left and right) are getting power from the fuse box. That should also mean that the master lighting switch is OK--if only flash-to-pass works on both sides, hone on on the master lighting switch first.  It has two sets of contacts, one for the left and one for the right, each carrying current for high and low beam.

From there, the left and right side power heads to the dimmer switch, with the right (passenger) side having a splice along the way to feed the DRL relay coil.  Again, if high beams switched fully on work, everything should be ok through that splice to the dimmer switch.  Check the output of the dimmer switch--low beam for the driver's side will be terminal A.  If there's no power there with low beams on, replace the dimmer switch.

Now here's where it gets interesting (confusing might be a better word...).  When the master light control is switched off, the DRL relay is not energized, and power passes from 87A to 30 on the DRL relay.  Power to 87A comes from the DRL module (which looks almost identical to a normal 5-pin relay, just a little taller). The DRL module, when activated, puts out a reduced voltage on its pin 87A that feeds both low beam filaments. Check to see if the DRLs work (key on, parking brake released, headlight switch off). If you're getting low voltage (i.e. 9V or so) on the passenger side low beam, the relay could be stuck and powering the passenger side from the DRL module with a more convoluted series of failures.

The fact that your passenger side low beam seems to be working with the parking brake set suggests that the DRL relay is operating properly.  If it were stuck on, you'd have either a working driver's side headlight also (or a problem with the left side circuitry after the DRL module splice SR4 also). If it were stuck off, you wouldn't have a passenger side low beam with the parking brake on.

Back to the DRLs--if both DRLs work, you have a problem between the dimmer switch and splice SR4. Either the dimmer switch itself, the connector, or the splice has failed. If still only the passenger side DRL works, the problem lies between SR4 and the bulb. There are 3 connectors between the splice and the bulb, not including the one at the bulb itself.

If you're working solo, you could pull the DRL relay or the DRL module and supply power to terminal 87A.  Both headlights should come on. If the left side still doesn't, you're back to a problem between SR4 and the bulb. Otherwise, back to the dimmer switch.

This all presumes you only have one failure--there are a few scenarios where I could see a failed relay and DRL module or something getting to the behavior you're after, but it's far more likely that it's the dimmer switch or a harness problem.

Mark Bruss has the schematics on his site: http://www.dmbruss.com/images/Schematics/V5_PV776_370_99218_2_Headlights_VN_B5_99.pdf

http://www.dmbruss.com/images/Schematics/V4_PV776_370_98218_2_Headlights_VN_B2_98.pdf

Note that the pinouts for the '99+ DRL module are wrong. The ones in the older diagram are correct for both sets of build dates.

On 8/24/2021 at 9:14 PM, GlennWest said:

453's don't rock when shifting.

The 453 doesn't have projectors--I was referring only to the older version.  Of course, the 453 could be had with a conventional manual, so I suppose it depends on who's driving!

The projector in the earlier (451) Smarts can be upgraded, there's not much to do with the 453s. It's a butyl sealant on the housings, and easily opened up.  The biggest downside to a better projector (in my opinion) is how much more you notice the car rocking back and forth with each shift.

Here's the link to the registration page: https://eastcoasthdtrally.com/product/2020-rally-registration/

If you have questions, find a problem, or need help registering, send an e-mail to registration@eastcoasthdtrally.com.

21 hours ago, rickeieio said:

Just want to give a shout to all the great people who attended the rally.  We met lots of old friends, and made a bunch of new ones too.  The depth and diversity of knowledge is amazing, and the willingness to share is beyond belief.  It was a great 10 days.  A big thanks to the Gail and Steve, and all the presenters.

While I didn't get to stick around long enough to enjoy it, I'm sure everyone appreciated a great departure-day breakfast courtesy of you and your better half too!

On 10/13/2019 at 7:23 PM, Sculptor said:

When everyone is eating your gourmet offering at the seminar, try and have some truck stop beef jerky in your pocket for you.  Unless your cooking is better than mine, then don’t worry about it.

Milo helped finish off a bag of beef jerky on the drive to Hutch, so we had to actually cook something edible.

I had help though, including an expert Oreo smasher borrowed from the Springfield gang, and two of his older .  Kinda neat to think about the first time I did this in 2015--4 years later they're quite a bit more capable and independent!

For anyone interested, recipes for what we made are posted here.  Outside of a little traffic in Kansas City, the trip back east has been smooth sailing. Less than an hour to go tonight.

As always, great seeing everyone who made it.  Until next time!

Sunday afternoon here.  Daylight hours for a change!

2 hours ago, rickeieio said:

It may be a good thing our plans were cast in jello.......  We're in Cortez, CO.  The plan was to run CO-160 to Walsenberg, the cut up CO-10 to US-50 and on to Hutch.  But Mother Nature doesn't always play nice.  50 years as a farmer, I should know better.  Wolf Creek Pass may be a little slippery tomorrow.  I don't carry chains.  I may delay departure to let the road get clear before heading out.

I know it's the wrong thread, but stop at the Malt Shoppe in Pagosa Springs.  Ask for the biggest ice cream cone they have, and grab a burger if you want a meal.  The restaurant just east of there is a nice sit-down place, good for a steak dinner by a fire overlooking the river when power to the town is out.

Having been on the slopes at Wolf Creek, I can attest to how much fun it can be in snow.  I bought chains (for the car) in town, where it was clear and dry, and was putting them on just a couple of miles east of the 84-160 intersection.  In four hours the car was parked, an additional 24" of snow fell.  It was a nice way to learn to fall on a snowboard, but a whole lot of work getting back on top of things.

1 hour ago, Big5er said:

You wasted Dr. Pepper on a grass fire?? Next time, drink the Dr. Pepper and pee on the fire.

Just to be clear, you drink Dr. Pepper so you're always prepared for fire fighting? 😉

I mean, you wouldn't want to get caught with a case of Dr. Pepper and nothing with which to fight a fire...

I'm slowly remembering why I like the RV.  It's a whole lot easier to bring everything than to figure out what to bring and how to fit it in a car.

Suit for the wedding, space for Milo, Milo's bed (he's that spoiled), Milo's food, Milo's treats, Milo's leash, stuff for the cooking seminar, tools, parts, spare parts, and hopefully enough room for a change of clothes or two for me.

22 hours ago, Brad & Jacolyn said:

If you are coming to Hutch it could become a project. I know at least one bad spot to drill a hole.

How many volunteer Smarts do we need to find the rest of the bad spots to drill?

And despite how the crowd has grown, we're still all pretty recognizable, even from miles or years away!  Not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing...

22 hours ago, Brad & Jacolyn said:

And that is a very elite social circle. We lost Ian last winter and I hope Izzy can fill it to maintain our spot in the circle. Dredd is rather particular.

Brad

It can be an elite social circle, but at the same time a rough crowd.  Dredd is just trying to make sure he enters at the right time.  We'll miss Ian! 😥

1 hour ago, Sculptor said:

Thanks David.  I have not been to the MATS that sounds like a good one to try.  Dallas in August sounds rough but we have never been to Texas so it would be good from that standpoint.   I found a show in Atlanta this month but the description says it’s aimed at fleet buyers.  Probably nothing of interest for us there.

 

Yeah, the one in Atlanta isn't what you're after.  Dallas wasn't too terrible last time I was there for the show--don't get me wrong, it was hot, but manageable with shade at the RV parks.  Louisville has ranged from hot to perfect to snow.

24 minutes ago, SuiteSuccess said:

Yes,  around $200.  Well worth trying to clean and restore. The screws on the plastic housing are “one way” but can be removed with needle nose vise grips. 

Most of the Buy It Now listings are in that range, but there are a couple of sellers that start them with no reserve at $10, and often don't get any bids at that.

I've been watching for one of the automatic ones to go at that price, as I want to upgrade mine.  I just don't want to spend $200-300 to do it.

1 minute ago, Big5er said:

What? Milo isn't coming? That's gonna limit our conversation, Dave. 🤣😃

Milo is DEFINITELY coming.  All of Gail's sausage would go to waste otherwise.   He just doesn't get to go to Florida.

Gail also made clear (might as well have been bold red capital letters) that Milo is invited to the rally. I'm his +1, not the other way around. 🤣

He's learned a couple of new tricks since the last time you saw him--he'll "whisper" and "smile" on command.

On 9/24/2019 at 6:13 PM, Brad & Jacolyn said:

Also be VERY careful where you drill holes for the bracket you build to hold the fan. There are lines running through the frame in places you would never guess. And when you hit one the shop will have to replace the evaporator also. Don't ask how I know this.

That sounds like there's a bill to prove that you learned all about it.  Ouch.

On 9/23/2019 at 6:36 PM, Alie&Jim's Carrilite said:

Does anyone have a part number for the aftermarket fan for the front radiator on the gen 2 Smarts?  And does the front clip need to be removed to install it or can it be done thru the access panel?

It's fairly easy to get the front stuff out of the way.  While you're in there, it's a good time to upgrade the headlight projectors and polish the lenses/replace the housings--most of the same stuff has to come off.

On 9/22/2019 at 6:22 AM, rickeieio said:

Fortunately, I built an extra week into our time line so we can explore.  We may need to set up camp near Blanding for a couple days in addition to Moab and Kanab.

There's a pretty basic RV park in Blanding that I've stayed at before.  Makes for an easy drive to Natural Bridges.  With the bikes, you probably wouldn't want to drive down it, but look up the Moki Dugway and drive to the edge of the cliff on your way to/from NB.

On 9/28/2019 at 8:27 AM, rickeieio said:

We rolled into Monticello, UT a couple days ago,  It seems this is a very busy time of year in these parts.  There were no spaces left in any rv park near Moab, so ,we kept moving south. Not what I wanted to do, but when you don't make reservations, it may be inconvenient.

Anyway, the weather and people here are great.  As we all know, the locals make the best tour guides.  We took a back road to the Needles area of Canyonlands NP yesterday and boy was it fun.Today we take the bikes back up to Moab and visit the upper portion of Canyonlands.  Yee Haw.

The first time I visited Canyonlands was right after a night at Natural Bridges in a tent--the park ranger made known that he was the only guy on national park land with a radar gun within 200 miles, and that as long as we didn't cause any harm, he had no intention of using it.  Might have made a few driving legs a little more fun...

If you end up further west, especially if you want to save some miles between US 89 and Bryce Canyon, take a drive in the car along Cottonwood Canyon Rd and Kodachrome Rd, which ends up in Cannonville, UT.  It's unpaved, but well graded, and takes you right past Grosvenor Arch and a few other neat out-of-the-way sights.

Very few of the roads should cause any trouble--but DO NOT attempt Cottonwood Canyon Road in the rain.  The mud/ash quickly turns your sneakers into platform shoes, and the Smart doesn't have nearly enough power to get through it.

On 10/1/2019 at 10:47 AM, SuiteSuccess said:

Update:  Thanks for all the suggestions, especially DesertMiner.  Took the module out, disassembled, cleaned with electronics cleaner and reassembled. Cleaned all posts and connections.  It is working normally now!!  Saved me bunch of $$$.

 

If you do end up having one go bad, they can be found on eBay pretty cheaply, especially the non-automatic style.

On 6/6/2016 at 3:10 PM, SuiteSuccess said:

I'd just get a pilot's and co-pilot's seat from that 747 you fly!!

I sure hope those have more padding than the seats in part of the plane I end up in!

5 hours ago, Sculptor said:

Hi all, and thanks to Steve, I am thinking about new seats and some other new hardware for our gen 2 VNL.  I hope to revive this discussion for a short time.

The only place near us with seats on display is the Kenly 95 truck stop.  They have some but no Knoedler.  

Is there a place to order seats from that commonly has the best prices?  Is it possible to find a sale at certain times of the year?  Should I just plan to be at the next truck show wherever it is and buy from a salesperson?

I'd definitely plan on one of the truck shows.  Not necessarily to buy there, but at least to figure out what you want.  MATS in Louisville (end of March/early April) is at the Kentucky Expo Center in Louisville, and there are RV sites with hookups right there.  GATS is at the convention center in downtown Dallas in August--I've camped at both Cedar Hill State Park and Loyd Park there.  Cedar Hill is an easier drive, but only a few of the sites are really HDT friendly.  For either show, you should be able to get free admission if you sign up in advance.

So plans for me this year are a little different than normal--a wedding to attend the day before the rally starts (staying in a hotel), and a flight from Chicago for a conference in south Florida the day after it ends.  I'm no stranger to 600 and 700 mile days with the RV, but I'm not keen on rushing out of the rally (the departure breakfast needs time to digest!), driving 750 miles, stopping to get the RV set up, dropping Milo off, and hopping on a plane, with only a few hours to spare.

The RV can stay where it is now (I'd like to think it's safer here than in Chicago), and Milo will have two cats to keep him company while I'm in Florida.  I'm also hoping to rent a certain car for an extended test drive--but only if the local place has one when it's time to hit the road. 

Those of you that have done it before or are doing it this year: Any particular hotel recommendations?  (Or anti-recommendations?) 

For anyone else, if there's something you need me to bring let me know--may ship some stuff out later this week.  If this is my year to win something in one of the drawings, I fully expect Murphy's Law to make it a giant stuffed animal or something, given the limited space.  Gail---don't get any ideas!!

Safe travels, and see you all soon!

13 minutes ago, Sculptor said:

I hope this is it.  https://www.advtrks.com/new-parts/

I take my truck there for both service and parts.  Pricey, but good deals on batteries and coolant.

Yep. That's the place I was referring to. Unfortunately the guy I really liked dealing with in parts got promoted, and no longer does parts sales.  Seems like his replacement hasn't been able to keep the online storefront going...