BobandBarb

2 minutes ago, Wrknrvr said:

   Do your jacks have springs on them.

 

 If they do you should be able to back off the valve to relieve to pressure. But do not turn the nut out two far.

 

  With the picture of the control you can match the appropriate manual for your rv.  If nothing else LCI should talk you through it tomorrow morning. Do not remove the hydraulic lines from the jacks. You will have a mess and loose fluid.

  Read the manual. Find how to release pressure from the jacks on the pump assembly. The valves can be released manually.

 

 Just trying to help.

 

  I have had oil on my T shirt from loosening a hydraulic line.

 

  Vern in a T-shirt 

Yes, they have springs on them.

FOR THE LAST TIME I HAVE READ THE MANUALS!!

PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF GOD QUIT TELLING ME TO READ THE MANUALS I HAVE!!

19 minutes ago, Kirk W said:

5 Steps to Troubleshooting RV Hydraulic Leveling Jacks

Power Gear Leveling Systems Service manual

This is fairly helpful. The owners manual is for a different model number. How do I figure out which model I have?

46 minutes ago, Wrknrvr said:

With a picture of your control panel we could figure out what system you have.

 It possibly sounds like you do not have 12 vdc power to the pump.      But a picture of the control panel and a 12 vdc meter could tell everyone what is happening.

 

  Just saying,   Vern in a T-shirt 

As posted above, I am having a hard time posting pictures.

Try this link please:

https://imgur.com/gallery/BsLgNSl

Update, I got the slide closed, had to take the hydraulic ram off on one end which is now sticking through the hatch. Levelers still won't retract

2 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:

Post a picture of your control board. Or is this unit located on the floor beside the seat.

 

  Some electric jack systems can be over extended and they will not come up with the controller.

 

  We really need to see a picture of the controls. Then we can be much better at helping you.  

 

 Vern in a T-shirt 

I will post a link to pics at the end.

Now that I understand the question better, it is a power gear system that controls the landing gear.

I took pictures of the pump and motor, there is no markings on it.

I read that I need to attach a ratchet strap to each eyebolt and anchor off of the frame to draw the slide back in after removing the hydraulic rams from their attachment point on the slide and fold them out of the way first.

I have included pictures of the collapsing landing gear.

Last is a separate question. Underneath my slide there are 4 electrical boxes, like you would put a wall socket or light switch in. There are two on the coach and two on the slide, side by side, with a big fat spiral wound wire coming between them. They don't appear to attach to anything inside or outside of the coach and slider. What are these for?

I am unable to get imgur to cooperate to upload pictures

Quick update:

The thought came to mind that maybe having it off of the levelers wasn't a great idea in case there is a pressure sensor or something to "tell" the rv that its' feet are down.

After blocking up the drivers side front corner, I realized that at least that corner is collapsing. I will be drawing the slide in manually in the hopes I can get feet up.

Where do I go with this from here?

Thanks in Advance, all.

19 hours ago, Kirk W said:

You really need the operator's manual for your system.

 

I can't help but be frustrated by this comment. I have the manual. I HAVE read it. SEVERAL times.

It is 137 pages and comes in its' own briefcase. There are at least 20 different manuals for various components. Perhaps if you asked more specific questions,that might be much more helpful?

I think you are referring to a manufacturer. It is an E-Z-Glide system.

8 hours ago, Barbaraok said:

List to starboard does not equal leaning to the driver's side.  That is the port side of the vehicle. So which is it?  

Is this a diesel or gas coach.   If diesel, have you started the engine and let the air bags fill to help pull the jacks up.   And do you have an interlock for the jacks and slide?  Our slide will not go out until the jacks are down.  Slides come in before jacks are raised.   Are you plugged into power?    

 

Clearly I am not the nautical type. Perhaps my attempt at levity to make myself feel better about the situation was inappropriate or somehow offensive? It is leaning to the drivers side.

No idea if it has an interlock, I had a similar thought. I am wondering if manually drawing the slide in (As described in the manual!!) will help? Levelers won't go in or out. Tried resetting the parking brake as I know it does have an interlock there.

Wondering if it doesn't have a mercury type switch to lock everything down if it does get out of level. I tried releveling it the best I could with my jack and some jack stands. While not perfect, it  is more level

Gas not diesel, no air bags to air up. Not plugged into shore power, but I do have the engine running when I run the slide in or out.

choose files...

27 minutes ago, Kirk W said:

Does your Bounder have leveling by HWH? If so it probably also powers the slides, which has been quite common. If so, start by checking the fuse for the hydraulic pump. 

Sorry, I don't know what the HWH system is. or stands for. How do I tell?

I would assume it is because the motor for the hydraulic levelers also isn't firing up. Fuse is what I am thinking also, but, the fuse for the levelers is intact. At least the one in the control box is. Also, the extra annoying safety beeper chimes merrily, when I try to run the slide,but that's it...

As an aside, if things were working like they are supposed to, how would one fix the above situation where the RV has sunken due to rain, or whatever? Should I try to relevel with the slide out or should I try to run the slide in with it out of level?

I am done with this group

Sorry guys, let me know if this works...

https://imgur.com/a/usYladc

Will this thing charge my house battery?

I don't have a multimeter so I can't really test anything and funds are low so running out and dropping $25.00 to $50.00 on one aint happening right now.

I do have a 120V socket right next to it. It worked when I plugged in the florescent light that immediately shorted out. It was a shop light someone left in it and I think the ballast may have been to blame there. Either way I have 120V power when plugged in to shore power.

It is the function of the white switch that I am asking about.

TIA!

It wouldn't let me upload both pictures on the same post

If I tie the two positive terminals together with something like a 6 gauge wire am I going to fry it? Honestly, I would think that it probably had that exact set up at one time.

Anyone else into the vintage stuff enough to know?

I have this thingie. Not sure what it does.  This is on a 1977 Concord class A. When the unit is plugged in, I can hear a buzz of something being energized. Specifically I am asking about the white rocker switch. One side is transformer, one side is battery, the center is off

On my 97 Bounder, when I run off of the genset or am plugged into shore power, it is supposed to recharge my batteries. Will this do that?

If it is, that leads me to my next question, can I connect my two batteries together via a jumper at the + and have it recharge both batteries? Both batteries share a common ground, ie the frame. I am thinking it will be easier to start and both batteries would have the dual function of running the vehicle and  powering the camper, but I have to admit I am just a fuzz out of my knowledge base when it comes to vehicle electronics with dual batteries.

All great answers! Thanks All!!

I am trying to figure out who to avoid as far as parts suppliers goes, or is there that big of a selection?

Who do you guys get your NLA parts from?

Case in point, my slide relay. I finally found it. Called everybody, they are NLA. I found one that might work. More of a generic relay.

Currently, I am about to engage in battle with my water pump. I didn't realize there was a water shut off valve in the system. After a few minutes of running the self priming pump with no water coming out, I found the valve.

The motor turns, the system isn't leaking. Everything was flushed when I hooked a garden hose up to it. Either way the water pump doesn't pump. Looks like I have to crawl in after it. I see I can get one from just about anywhere, but who do I want to avoid? Can I just replace the pump head? If not, what do you guys do with the still working 12V motors?

For cars, there are all kinds of aftermarket suppliers. Is there a similar supplier or suppliers for R.V. parts?

found the problem. Any recommendations for a replacement? It is the dc motor control.

I feel like I have been going about trying to get help with my RV in the wrong way.

After talking to several repair shops it is becoming more and more clear to me that outside help is not available. The Rv is too old, everyone is booked up solid forever, you name  it I have heard it.

So First question. My slide won't open. 97 Bounder with EZ Glide hydraulic slider. How do I go about diagnosing it without accidentally activating it and killing myself in the process?

I have some ideas but know nothing about this stuff and I am tired of chasing my tail.

Any chance this is it? Judging by the non standard terminals, I would bet someone hacked this in.

I did some hard looking and one thing I noticed is that there are scratches on the center lug, almost like there was a wire attached there.

So I took out the  test light and everything is hot except 87. Even the one in the center, which I thought was for an indicator light, like if the relay was used for fog lights or something.

I took the box that had the slide out relay in it and got a new one, just trying to figure out where it goes. The relay in the picture should only have one constant hot lug, iirc. Straight hot from the battery. It has been jumpered over to the switched hot so that's two legs. The next leg 85 should be ground, but it is hot too, which can't be good... Then there is lug 87 which should be the work, but it's dead. Mot interesting of all, when I run my test light to 85, the one that should be ground, I can hear the relay click. Which really sounds like it isn't wired right, but IDK what it is supposed to do...

Either way, am I looking for the slide relay in the right place?

Last the terminal in the center of the new relay is labeled 87Q. On the schematic printed on the side of the relay it is marked 87a, which is...inconsistent.

This is really a multi question post.

First, where does the relay for the slide live in a 97 bounder? I know it has a relay because I found one in a box labeled "slide out relay"

My issue is when I push the out button I get nothing and I am trying to chase down why. I have a control center right in the front that has a relay wired in, it also has two separate relay boxes and, of course, not a single one is labeled.

Next question. What is SKP#? Trying to complete my profile. It says I am 50% done When I click next it takes me back to where ever I was with nothing changed. I would like to complete a signature line in here so I don't have to put 97 bounder each time.

Last question, how do I get to the signature page, or is there one?

TIA

On 4/25/2021 at 6:40 AM, oldjohnt said:

Bob n Barb, hey I used to buy and sell (plus use them in the interim) motorhomes so know your frustration. I will say unless you're skilled and can troubleshot and repair them yourself (like I had to) and have to pay a service tech, it may be a loosing proposition grrrrrrrrrrr.

 That being said, wiring diagrams may be hard to come by so one has to trace down the causes of opens or shorts which a good multi meter can help locate and its impossible to do that for you over the net, sorry.

 I also do a lot of boondocking, NOT ONLY for the cost savings, but the beauty, peace freedom and privacy  in remote mountains or streams  yayyyyyyyyyyyy but I had to invest in Solar and Batteries to better accomplish that for long term stays.

 When a used dealer I observed many new or like new motorhomes  had as many problems as an older grrrrrr

 

 Good luck n best wishes

John T

I appreciate your input. I have been a gear head my whole life. I know how to fix stuff. We purposely bought older units because we can't afford repair costs which means I have to fix EVERYTHING. Hopefully we will spend more time enjoying the rv than working on it.

22 hours ago, Kirk W said:

Is not your thread about the slide problem on a 1997 Bounder? Do you collect old motorhomes? What a challenge.

Yes, I have two.

More precisely, my wife and I have the Bounder and my step son has this relic. I am teaching him how to fix it. We got it out of a field. I was going to blog about getting it going again. So far we have replaced the fuel lines, fuel pump,all engine filters and gave it a solid tune up to get it home. Now we are trying to get the lights working again.

The ultimate goal is to go boondocking. We want to live free or for as low cost as we can. We are sick to death of paying someone else's mortgage and getting screwed in return.

We have 45 ish days, we think, to get this squared away. We are trying to get the Relic road legal. The inside is pretty sweet for such an ugly, ugly dinosaur. So Road legal and then see what else needs fixing. Before winter we intend to coat the top with flexseal or something similar.

23 hours ago, Kirk W said:

 Here is a copy of a manual that may help.     

Fleetwoood Slideout Systems Operations Manual

In addition I was able to locate this Power Gear Slideout Service Manual

I'm not sure that I understand what you mean when you say "the whole coach shut off." The engine still runs, I assume? Did you lose all 12V power and so have no interior lights, water pump, or other appliances? Do you have a volt/ohm meter that you can use to trace voltages? 

Turns out I hadn't cleaned the battery terminals well enough. After putting new ones on it the coach fires right up but the room still doesn't slide.

I can hear the motor spin up when I hit the in button, but all I get is beeping when I hit the out button. I did find the operating instructions for the room. Turn the key and push the button shouldn't need a heck of a lot of explanation.

Having a 25 year old RV is kind of freaking me out. Anything goes wrong with it and I have to Figure it out. (edited at the request of the moderator. I am having a real hard time believing the greatest generation would be offended by a little colorful language)  One would think someone with both mechanical skills and construction experience would be the perfect person to fix stuff. I wish I was an aircraft engineer instead.

1 minute ago, Ranger Smith said:

It sounds like you have either a bad connection to the house batteries, chassis batteries or they are bad. The slides are generally moved with the coach running. 

Do you have the coach plugged in on shore power? If so did the breaker in the house trip??

I am not on shore power. I put two brand new 80 AH batteries in it yesterday. The third battery is not new but has about 3 of 5 years warranty left. Where is the house breaker for the slide?

97 Bounder Ez Slide.

Found the user manual for the slide. Read it several times. It says drop the levelers and set the parking brake. It says nothing about having the engine running or not. I tried to run the slide out with the engine off. No movement. I started it up and tried to run the slide out and the whole coach shut off and is dead.

I have checked all the fuses I can find. I found the reset switches on the breakers and have reset them.

I am absolutely freaked out that this is going to cost me a grip to fix. This is my first adventure in RVing and everything is new and scary. I haven't even taken it out yet and I broke it...

Can someone help me puzzle this out?

Deleted comment started new thread to avoid double posting.

ok! I got it back in! It was as easy as dropping the levelers, turning it on and pressing in. Never used one of these before and don't know what to expect.

So, it has two hydraulic rams, one on each side. I checked the reservoir and it seems to be full. When I run it in, I can hear the pump motor spin up. Trying to run it out All I get is a back up alarm. I imagine it is a warning to people outside? The motor doesn't spin up or anything. I have tried it with the engine running and the engine off. It has a keyed main switch and a rocker right next to it. I dd crawl under it to inspect it and check he fluid. It has two 6? gauge wires running from the motor back to a control unit.  One was a little loose so I snugged it up. I am a little afraid to open the control box underneath as IDK what I am doing with it,or what to expect to find in it.

So are there any tricks not covered by youtube to run out a slider on a 97 bounder? Any usual causes to check like fuses? If so, where would I look? Is the back up alarm to warn people to move,or is it telling me something is not right?