Leftishut

So 9900lbs - truck weight loaded with fuel and family = Y

Y x 4.34 = total trailer weight that can be carried safely and legally. 

I want to set my max for a stock 2002 f350 and then if I upgrade truck in anyway that will just be extra safety margin. 

I guess I need a scale.

I was thinking about putting an aluminum flatbed on her so I can increase payload and design the over truck section of trailer with more room for our closet (which is going to be roll out closet from that over bed section). 

Plus while doing relief work a flat bed will be better for hauling pallets.  

But that may give us a little more pin weight assuming the bed would be lighter than stock. 

Looking at the moryde. It seems like it would distribute stress to the trailer the best.

Torque system (2axle) would distribute to 4 x 10-14" points. 

Spring system adds more contact points 6-8 mount points 3-5" long but spread out farther on the trailer. 

Moryde seems similar to torque but also soaks up shock a lot better and doesn't transfer load to one side as much. That seems like it would help keep the trailer build in one piece a lot longer.

6 hours ago, Second Chance said:

You don't say what size/weight of rig but, having owned Lippert and Dexter solid axle systems and the MOR/ryde independent suspension, the MOR/ryde is heads and shoulders above the other systems. Better ride, dampened, and fully alignable.

Rob

I have a 2002 f350 7.3

it says I can tow about 13k 

sticker says gvwr 9900lb

book says (it doesn't show the 7.3 but the 6.8 shows) with 5th wheel:

Max gcwr: 20,000lb  

max trailer weight 13,700lb

if someone knows specific 7.3 rates I would love them. I have heard the truck can handle a lot more then they say. So I don't mind maxing the legal limit but I don't want to exceed it.

On 10/26/2017 at 2:29 PM, Phil Saran said:

A little more info on what you are building, the size and weight would help with giving info & opinions.

Are you building a tiny house on a trailer or what?

Sorry, it's going to be a custom built horse trailer in steel. Only wider/taller  and lighter construction as not needed to carry horses. I am still open to design options. We talk about it here:

Moryde seems to stand out as favorite. I will check if they must install or it can be sent to a pro builder for the build. (I think I would buy extra springs just in case)

11 minutes ago, GlennWest said:

2 10k I/S or 3 7k  I/S? Which would be better. Just thought I would throw a wrench in this discussion. I thinking on an upgrade down the road and pondering this

I have heard thee tires make it harder to turn. True? You end up dragging two of the tires on parking turns? 20k seems overkill. 

Is it the builder that decided a payload weight? My truck is limmited anyways, so tow weight won't love extra a heavy suspension but payload would only increase. I was hoping for 2 8k units

On 10/22/2017 at 2:53 PM, dlcarsonak said:

    I have Dexter torsion. 3 x 6000 The three makes for a softer ride while caring the same weight. DO NOT get replaceable spindles. I have replaced the rear twice and the front once in 2.5 years. I went back with nonreplicable spindle.

Good to know. I was looking into them. 

Is that spring piece something in production for other uses, or is it a unique design for this use only? My only worry is that if this company ever goes out of business every other part could be repaired by a metal shop or auto parts store but the spring looks like is would be a custom piece.

Found a breakdown on a blog don't know how old. Not cheap but it seems like a great system. And if you say most components are dexter, price difference would only change in the suspension category. Two dexter 8,000lbs would be a ton cheaper would they?

Cost breakdown:

Brake Parts: $2000

Suspension Parts: $1900

Wheels: $850

Tires: $770

Labor: $1500

Total w/ tax, shop fees and such: $7700

How hard was that spring to replace? Shop or on your own?

1 hour ago, Mark and Dale Bruss said:

The MOR/ryde IS independent suspension is a better choice.  The IS has 5" of wheel travel compares to the 3" of the torsion suspension.

Independent suspension is superior to leaf springs.  No matter what system, any action in one wheel is transferred to all the other axles/wheels through the shackles.

Those look nice. I read an article about a customer who loves them but he did mention a sway which is the nature of the beast. Sway to a beyond novice to towing, sounds worse than bumpy ride. Or is normal to adjust to it?

is that system what most consider the best if you can afford it? ( we have the advantage of buying one i.e. Not having to throw away a paid for system like normal upgrades)

i have heard they need to be disigned to the specific trailer and need to do the install. I will check into that. Would make it impossible. 

The last problem I see is parts. Dexters are common and can be ordered in the middle of nowhere but in this system the rubber spring part seems like it would be a special order part. 

Since we are building from scratch I want the best reasonable suspension capable of handle moderate forest roads and the like, but mostly paved surface.

 So far we are leaning 2 x 7,000lb (or 8,000 if available) dexter torsion with disc brakes. I would like shocks on them as well if possible. 

But I have seen dexter make small torsion not connected by a shaft going to the other side. It seem like they would offer and independent style suspension. Are they not as good? Only used for weird trailer like boat trailers or something? Why aren't they used a lot?

(money is an object to us, but. We are ok paying a bit to do it once right)

are leaf spring better in any way?