Shawn Patterson
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Posts posted by Shawn Patterson
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I'm not running my TPMS on the truck, just on the trailer. I do have the crossfire units on the drives but my understanding is that they don't play well with TPMS sensors as they will shut down the connection to a tire that has lost pressure. They used to have a model that would allow the installation of 2 TPMS sensors right on the Crossfire, but I am not sure they are making those any longer.
Probably your best bet is to use the valve extensions that others have mentioned.
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Andrea and I are hoping to join you all on or about 1/15... We will let you know if that goes sideways.
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My experience on cars having this same problem is that it typically is a result of a failure in the park circuit of the wiper motor itself. Looks like they run about $160.
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We used to get this when I forgot to drain the water tank and left it full between trips. You need to do a sanitizing flush...
You can use bleach, but I have found that this product works great!!
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Ground control to Major Tom....
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42 minutes ago, Kirk W said:
The reason for the device on the end of that vent like is to prevent air from back-flowing from your waste tanks into the RV. Most of us learn that the odor from the gray tanks is even worse than that of the black. That air from the tanks is most likely to happen when you run a vent fan, when you are driving, or if the wind hits the vent caps on the roof just wrong. You may want to consider upgrading the type of plumbing vent used as there are several different types available. While the type typically found in RVs is the cheapest, they also fail the most often. I have found that the Studor Mini-Vent is much more reliable and lasts longer, although it does require somewhat more space. I have heard good reports on the Oatey Sure-Vent as well.
Actually Kirk, the main reason for the air admittance valve is to keep water that is moving through the drain from causing positive or negative pressure that would cause the water in the P-Trap to be removed and possibly allow gases to flow through the P-Trap into the coach. They are required for any system with standing water P-Traps but not required for mechanical traps like the HepvO valve as it doesn't rely on trapped water for the seal.
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Tim,
This sure seems like a venting issue still, but my only thoughts in reading through this and the previous post is possibly to determine if the gurgling is being caused by air being pushed into the trap or pulled out of it. I'm going to guess that it's air being pulled in because if it was the other way around it would probably be accompanied by some noxious smells. If you aren't sure, perhaps taping a square of saran wrap over the drain might tell you for sure.
I'm not sure if knowing this will necessarily help diagnosing the issue, but it might. The only other thing I could suggest would be to check for any other air admittance valves that might not be letting air in as they should.
A work-around option would be to install a HepvO valve in place of the wet p-trap. It won't solve the actual problem but it should make the symptom go away as there will be no water to gurgle any longer.
https://www.amazon.com/HEPVO-BV1BUB112-1-1-2-Trap/dp/B00NLMPLDU -
I did mine like some of the other comments above...
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As far as the minimum changes, this is what we did before hitting the road:
Hitch, Brake Controller, Jackalope and full fendersI went with the Tucson brake controller and the Spray Master fenders as the Minimizer fenders were just way too expensive for me.
I had a shop extend the frame, install the hitch and mount the fenders.
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Jay,
I didn't modify my commercial jack, if I ever needed to I could just unplug the Jackalopee and plug in a standard commercial pigtail.
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Jay, I mounted mine a bit differently than most... I sealed up the top wire grommets with liquid electrical tape (silicone would work too) and it has worked out great. Not sure if this is something you'd want to do or not, but it's an option.
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I did some poking around as well and this really does look like a good price, especially since this is shipped from and sold by Amazon.
Just be aware that this will also require a 12 volt power source where it gets installed. That's probably not an issue on your Motorhome though as I am going to guess that the cord reel will be installed in a compartment where there is already some 12 volt connections.
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So I just bought a stainless steel fitting water hose from RVWaterfilterstore.com, which actually links you to https://www.rvh2o.com/category/ultrahose.html. So far I am loving the hose! I got mine in a 35' length as it seemed that any time my 25' hose wasn't long enough, all I needed was an extra 4 or 5 feet.
The hose is NSF 51 rated so it's completely food grade (no plastic taste at all!), has a pressure rating up to 200 psi, is pretty flexible and coils up nicely (prob a 12-14 inch diameter). The stainless steel fittings are by far the most robust I have ever seen.
Shipping was quick and the gentleman at RVH2O was super nice.
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One advantage of going with a 24v or 48v system is that you can reduce the gauge of the wire you are using between your batteries and the inverter. This may or may not be an advantage depending on the length of your wire runs and how tight your installation area is.
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Welcome!
1. If possible, as others have said, get domiciled in SD before buying your truck. We domiciled in SD just before buying the truck and about 3 months ahead of getting on the road and everything worked out perfectly.2. This isn't my area of expertise by a long shot, but I personally haven't seen anything that comes close to the Volvo Workstation setup.
3. We've been tandem for the almost 4 years we've been on the road, but mostly that is because I there wasn't enough of an incentive for me to have an axle removed. This one is a HUGE "it depends" question in my opinion. There are certainly advantages, especially if you are doing a smart car deck, but each person needs to evaluate the cost/benefit ratio for themselves.
4. If you do single, then singling Mid is probably your best bet. I think the vast majority of HDTers have a typical wheelbase (229" I think?), single Mid and have very few problems. Going with the 13.2K front axle if you can find it instead of the 12.4k might buy you some flexibility.
As others have also said, the National Rally is a super resource and I would also recommend joining the Facebook group if you haven't already (https://www.facebook.com/groups/HDTRVs/).
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I would suggest joining the FaceBook group as well as there are over 6,000 members there.
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Rig Upgrade
in HDT
I have been considering adding a garage to our rig as well. I only have enough room for about 65" from the back of the cab though. Do you have a contact at Morgan Corp who would be able to give me a quote?
Thanks,
Shawn -
Great news Cory!
How did the rate from GLG compare to what you were paying before? I don't need amounts, just wondering if it was significantly more or less than what you were paying.
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Check all the slide floors thoroughly! Our 2016 had a bedroom slide that had rotted out. This is a VERY common issue on the DRVs of this vintage. Keeping up on your caulking is critical.
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HDT VS MDT
in HDT
Have you reached out to Lightstream yet?
You can read about my experience here...
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This is what I've used on all my vehicles.
Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, 8 oz.
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We have a version like Chad mentioned and we like it.
Carefree 701508 Black 15' x 8' Drop RV Awning EZ ZipBlocker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MI3OTJK
For those using the Direct Link Brake Controller
in HDT
Posted · Edited by Shawn Patterson
I took my trailer brake bar (Johnson Bar) and removed the handle and tucked it behind the dash, then I used 3M VHB tape and some zip ties to affix the controller to the Johnson bar bracket and mounted the Tucson remote right where the Johnson bar was.