youngwillyd

Looks like that is what happened. Plugging black to black and white to white seems simple enough. If I was setting this up originally I would put different ends on the 12v and 120v so they couldn’t be plugged in wrong. I looked back through the videos and I didn’t see any concerns about plugging in the 12v to 120v. I guess I have burned something up. Now I have power back to the refrigerator, but it doesn’t do anything. I hear some clicking when I turn it on, but it doesn’t start. It doesn’t display AC or gas. I can smell gas like it starts to run but doesn’t spark.

I removed all the metallic tape. It still tripped the GFCI. I plugged into a non GFCI circuit. This caused some sparking when I touched the leads and some clicking that I think might have been from the little part that is metal and round. This is the part number - 3108706.9729. I blew the 3 amp fuse on the circuit board so I am done until I can get some fuses. Any thoughts?

I have installed a new Amish cooling unit. I replaced the ice maker supply line and wrapped it up with the silver metallic tape. It was wrapped with black tape before. Now when I plug the ice maker line heater in it trips the gcfi. Any ideas?

After a great, great deal of searching, I finally found a Dometic part number by searching for Dometic recall. With the Dometic part number I was able to search for and locate some. The part is called a resettable thermal switch. I finally located one at SUPPLYHOUSE.COM. It is a 290 degree Fahrenheit Red Resettable Thermal Switch. It was only $6 compared to the one with Dometic in it’s name being more than $18.

My fridge quit. I am getting a new cooling unit. The switch on the boiler/stack is dead. It has the code 36FXE24 on it. When searching this it appears this is a dryer fuse. It is not resettable. From research it appears this switch should be resettable. If I knew what the temperature limit was I could probably find one, but so far I am getting nowhere. Anyone know anything about this? Thanks Willy