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LHS61

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About LHS61

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    Male
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    Western US
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    Photography, computer software, birding, community service, geocaching, electronics
  1. I've been running 6 Trojan 105s off my solar system and original setup. They have been seriously discharged a few times but seem to be ok now. My question is this: how can I determine the life I can expect is remaining in this battery bank?
  2. I guess the next time my joints open up, I will use the Liquid Roof product. If I get 2 years out of the HD product, I'm happy.
  3. One way is to buy a gallon of the white rubber (elastomeric) product sold at Home Depot and the 6 inch wide joint sealing fabric from the same manufacturer. Its not cheap, but that much should last you for years. I cut it down to about 2.5 inches wide and put a base coat on the joint first, then the fabric, then another coat of the product. Its tough and durable. Some folks will quibble about using it on rubber roofs etc. For my money, its the way to go. Be sure to clean the joints first.
  4. I found that the expensive cleaners designated for Corian didn't work for me. I don't know if this works for deep scratches, but it works great for removing stains in about 20 minutes. Go to Home Depot's cleaning product section and find the industrial (commercial) liquid bleach. It works great, just be careful with it to avoid getting it on anything else in the area. I use rubber gloves and a small sponge to apply it carefully. Its amazing.... and cheap.
  5. This thread is impressive... pretty thorough. Regarding living organisms and viruses, I have heard from those who travel into the back country of SE Asia, that a few drops of bleach will kill all them. I'm wondering if that would be a solution for the worst case person could get into. I don't recall the ratio of drops per gallon...obviously, the taste could be impacted. Derek: what's your opinion on this?
  6. It might help to know the specifications of these products. Flow Pur's #7 filter removes 99.9% of cysts and their #8 filter is rated at 5 microns... the #7 is part of their "ultimate filter system" Flow Pur's site: http://www.flowpur.com/html/rv_filters.html Educational info found here:https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/ABChoosingACartridge.htm
  7. Not to belabour this topic, but I am glad that the overall tax structure for SD compared to Washington State is 60% less.... now all I have to do is study the positions of the SD politicians so I can cast an intelligent ballot later this year
  8. Maybe this is to late, but I just bought 4 ea Trojan T105s for $98 / ea plus core in Phoenix from "The battery guy" http://www.thebatteryguy.com/ --- no tax ... don't ask why
  9. Its been a couple of months since this thread was 'hot'.. but here's my 2 bits worth: The most vital factors are quality, age & price. There actually is a 'premium quality tier' of RVs and motorhomes. You will get a deluge of advice on the quality issue, but remember that durability over time depends on quality not to mention your pride of ownership. My suggestion is that you get the most bang for the buck in a used, premium quality rig, gas powered. I like Newmar and Tiffin but there are others in the top tier. Take your time, do your research and go for it Now for the "blow back" on the quality question.
  10. I agree with this advice... " Just take it a step at a time and follow the path that makes you feel most comfortable, not everyone follows the same path, and in the RV life its easy to change your path." With this addendum: I'm readjusting to the single lifestyle on the road full time after the failure (?!?) of a 44 year marriage. My guess is that the first 12-24 months will be the hardest period for you. Consider volunteering where you are in a friendly community and can contribute to the general welfare in some way. I like these 2 christian ministries to volunteer at: sowers http://www.sowerministry.org/ and MBI associates http://missionbuilders.org/mbi-rva/ In both cases, your parking and hookups are provided along with some meals. You are meeting people and contributing in ways that are really appreciated.
  11. Sounds like you have got 2 major decisions to make... I went through the 'best quality class A on the used market' issue a few months ago. I suggest you focus on the quality of the MH independent of the solar upgrades and modifications. Otherwise if you mix the criteria, you could wind up with more problems than you bargained for. Assuming you want to keep this unit for a few years, I suggest you focus on the top 4-5 quality brands; such as Tiffin, Newmar etc. Kirk and others will probably weigh in on this. I bought a 10 year old Newmar with 2 year old tires and 11K miles on it. Even with the inevitable issues (replaced and AC) I'm glad I chose the Newmar. The cabinet quality and attention to detail in the design of the coach will make this unit serve me full time for a number of years.
  12. I discovered I have 2 each 45 amp Iota chargers running in parallel. I just ordered the "IQ4" smart controller from Iota to make these units into 4 - stage chargers. That should help some. In addition, I will move to the other side of the property and hook to shore power for a week. I'm not sure these 2 month old batteries were 'broken in' properly. When I got them I hit the road and dry camped for about 5 days. That was followed by 6 days on shore power in a campground. I'm getting educated about these chargers by reading Bill Moeller's book and the good advice on this forum. Moeller recommends the Xantrex Battery monitor which tracks amp-hour usage... which I will be installing soon. He says to never discharge below 50% of the battery's capacity and preferably stay above 70%. He also claims that repeated discharging below 12.1 volts will shorten battery life. I can't understand why Newmar doesn't install the $30 smart controller in the original build. Actually, the Mountain Aire is not an entry level coach. Thanks for all your advice PS - I just talked to the tech dept at Iota Engineering and they said the smart controller will make the chargers have a bulk charging voltage of 14.8 whereas the bare charger puts out 13.6 to start. Like I said, some experts do crazy things... i.e. Why would anyone not want a 4 stage charger in their RV?
  13. Its a Norcold 1200 but I see that as a separate issue.... I run it on LP 90% of the time. My concern focuses on why I could be reading 12.6 volts from the battery bank and have a failing specific gravity of 1.1 reading on the hydrometer
  14. Two months ago I installed 2 new deep cycle, 6 volt golf batteries from NAPA in my Class A. I thought my battery problems were solved, but not so. All was fine when I was spending most of my nights on shore power for the first 4 weeks (right captain obvious). In the last month I have been dry camping and running the generator every 2-3 days. Then the refer started giving alarms about low voltage... at about 11.8 volts about a week ago even though I had ran genset 24 hours earlier. So I read some RV books and decided to hook up MH to shore power for 18 hours. Sure enough the voltage now reads 12.6 BUT the specific gravity sets at 1.12 which indicates the need for recharging... Color me confused! Should I have gone through some break-in procedure for these new batteries? What am I missing? How long should the genset run to properly charge the these deep cycle batteries?
  15. Case closed....thanks tons to all who responded. New batteries did the trick. BUT I have a question about batteries: Is it advisable to use bottled drinking water for the batteries (like from Walmart) ?
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