Angie M

25 minutes ago, lappir said:

Nice job with the repair. I went with raised floor slide outs in my home to have better sealing when they were extended. With that lip you have created it might serve you well to put a bit of soft flexible material that can be squished into the gap with the slide open. 

Good idea with filling the metal with foam. You will have to update us next winter to see if you can tell where the metal supports are and are not. 

 

Rod

I will post an update after a few months of use. The old carpet just hung over and caused a serious crease from the lip so to prevent that I’m going to attach a bullnose or quarter round on the end and have the carpet hang over the edge the same way and hope that prevents a crease.  It created some weight obviously with the metal snd heavier wood so we shall see if that creates any issues down the road. 

thank you everyone for your input. It was all a great help to figure this out. We are happy with the outcome. Maybe someday we will be in one place long enough to have the floor properly replaced, but we are very happy with how level and sturdy the floor is now. 

8 hours ago, Angie M said:

Update:  the floor is finally level and strong!

since it became apparent the slideout floor would never bend back into position, which eliminated trying to attach a new piece of plywood and pulling the sag up or otherwise, we went with buying 16 gauge 1” square metal tubing and had 14 pieces cut to 40”. Got them pretty cheap at https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/carbon-steel/1-x-0-065-carbon-steel-square-tube-a500-a513-hot-rolled/pid/10301

we attached them 12” apart to 3/4” sande plywood which wasn’t cheap at Home Depot but the cut it to 4x 40.5 inches for us. We intended to glue them so we could flip the board and they would hold in place to screw from the top, but we found this fantastic glue, Fuze It by Liquid Nails, and it stuck so well we decided we didn’t need to scree them also. Here is the glue; https://www.homedepot.com/p/Liquid-Nails-Fuze-It-9-oz-Gray-All-Surface-Construction-Adhesive-LN-2000/206736831

we used 8’ and 4’ pieces of plywood and fit them together  Now we have a level floor  All that is left is to carpet it  

Pictures To follow  

 

I got in touch with Escapees and they said they made changes and I can post pictures now. So here goes. The flore is 1.75 inches higher but it had a 1/2 lip along that shouldn’t be there so 1.25 higher for us to deal with. But I love it. 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JXQNwTZe1CLG5KBWA

i hope that works for everyone 

10 minutes ago, Angie M said:

What happened?  The option to add a photo has disappeared. Only allows me to add from a url. 

Apparently there is a limit of 1000kb in attachments. I have reached my limit. I’m trying to figure out if I can delete some. 

What happened?  The option to add a photo has disappeared. Only allows me to add from a url. 

We also added foam board insulation to the underside and bubble insulation to the top of the old floor. And put expanding foam in end of tubes just to keep bugs and dust out. 

Update:  the floor is finally level and strong!

since it became apparent the slideout floor would never bend back into position, which eliminated trying to attach a new piece of plywood and pulling the sag up or otherwise, we went with buying 16 gauge 1” square metal tubing and had 14 pieces cut to 40”. Got them pretty cheap at https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/carbon-steel/1-x-0-065-carbon-steel-square-tube-a500-a513-hot-rolled/pid/10301

we attached them 12” apart to 3/4” sande plywood which wasn’t cheap at Home Depot but the cut it to 4x 40.5 inches for us. We intended to glue them so we could flip the board and they would hold in place to screw from the top, but we found this fantastic glue, Fuze It by Liquid Nails, and it stuck so well we decided we didn’t need to scree them also. Here is the glue; https://www.homedepot.com/p/Liquid-Nails-Fuze-It-9-oz-Gray-All-Surface-Construction-Adhesive-LN-2000/206736831

we used 8’ and 4’ pieces of plywood and fit them together  Now we have a level floor  All that is left is to carpet it  

Pictures To follow  

1 hour ago, Kirk W said:

Angie M, how about an update on where you are on this and what you plan to do? 

Here is an update. Taking bits of advice from each of you, We have decided to try using 1”square metal tubing and attach them to the underside of the new 3/4” plywood every 12”.  With a test run it seems to be sturdy. They now in the floor cannot be lifted up with jacks. It just frozen in that position.  The whole slide lifts up. Whether this will work on a large scale remains to be seen. May be too heavy for the slide. The extra 1” lip May present more if a problem. We just received the metal tubing in the mail. It’s suppose to rain the next few days so that may delay us. Will post pictures tires when I have some. 

7 hours ago, Kirk W said:

That is exactly the reason that I was looking for a way to use some angle iron or aluminum to support the floor. Did I understand correctly that the slide floor is 12' long and 3' wide? 

12x3 1/2. I’m wondering if angle iron is strong enough to keep the new floor from bending?

35 minutes ago, Danfreda1 said:

Do you have room in the slide for a narrow floor cabinet that could sit next to a chair or other piece of furniture to be an end table? The after the floor is flattened you could put a couple of pieces of angle iron inside the cabinet, one on each side. Then run carriage bolts from the bottom of the slide through the floor and into the bottom of the cabinet and the iron and nuts would be hidden in the Cabinet. That would keep it flat without being seen or get in the way of the slide working. 

Funny you suggested this. We were just discussing making an aluminum frame with slats every 6 inches or so and attaching the ply would to the frame. We started thinking that even if we attach a piece of ply wood and are able to pull the floor up to it, eventually the same problem occurred if not immediately. I think the floor needs support. Does this sound feasible?

2 hours ago, Kirk W said:

Have you checked your private message from Vern? 

Yes I have. 

13 minutes ago, Wrknrvr said:

Have one person under the slide, to feel if the slide moves down, when someone stands on it .

 

   That side wear is another subject In itself. I have a few thoughts on that subject.   Thinking back 10 or so years for fixing that subject.

Yes it does

7 minutes ago, Wrknrvr said:

I just noticed the edge wear on the plastic covering.

 

is it worn like that on both sides of the slide edges.

Correct

11 minutes ago, Wrknrvr said:

Changed hand to type with.

  Could you put that level up under the slideout floor. We are looking to see if the lower part is curved like the upper.   Then post a picture of it.

I will work on that

19 minutes ago, Wrknrvr said:

 Page 2

 top photo shows how thick the slide floor is. The Osborn’s board is right there covered in plastic cloth

   With one finger and your thumb, you can feel how thick the floor is.

It’s either 5/8 or 3/4

20 minutes ago, Kirk W said:

Is that the underside of the OSB that can be seen where the fabric is worn?

Yes

27 minutes ago, Kirk W said:

Angie, have you checked to see if that floor sag is also under the slide, as it doesn't appear that way from what I can see in the pictures. Also, is the shiny surface a weather coating that may have insulation between it and the OSB of the floor? All of those could be issues to deal with when trying to repair that sag. If there is a layer of insulation, it is filling the space below the floor OSB and would probably be crushed if an attempt is made to jack up against it to push the sag up where it should be. The only similar problem that I have worked on was one that you could seen the under side of the flooring when looking up on the outside. It was also quite a bit older RV and didn't have any insulation under the flooring. 

I would do a lot of looking very closely before starting to work as you don't want to make things worse in the process. Unfortunately not all companies build their slides the same way to it is difficult to be sure of advice without actually looking at yours. 

The shinny covering is only a weather priggish. No insulation as you can see by one of my pictures showing the fraying all the way to the wood. It does bow underneath but I couldn’t capture in picture. I’ll have someone stand on it and see if it more prominent 

1 minute ago, Wrknrvr said:

      I would suggest to put a block of wood between /////‘ll.

??  Is this a complete thought?

So I posted pictures. I hope you can see clearly since I have to dumb these down to post them. I tried pushing up on the floor and it doesn’t budge. So whether a jack would life it up without lifting the entire slide remains to be seen. You should be able to see that there is no space to work with for supports. Unless someone sees an option. Both sides are scrapping against something because the black weather proof material is fraying. 
 

I hope these pictures help with ideas. 

1 hour ago, Ray,IN said:

Since the present floor is only 5/8" OSB, which was a poor choice anyway, I like Kirks idea better than mine. Depending on clearance under the floor, If there is clearance, 1" angle iron mounted under the present bowed floor, would push the OSB back up to level. Each end would have to be secured with carriage bolts from above and nylock nuts on the bottom, It might require more than one piece of angle to completely level the floor.

This would be ideal, but I don’t think they could be installed without affecting the slide being able to retract. Will send picture tomorrow of underside. 

1 hour ago, Kirk W said:

      At Home Depot, 3/4 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. PureBond Birch Plywood is $79.68 per sheet.

I am wondering how deep the slide is and if you need a full 4X8' sheet? I don't believe that you will be able to find any plywood that is 12' long in any regular lumberyard. If it were me, I would not go to the expense of hardwood use fir plywood. I would still like to see a picture of the underside of the slide as I'd think that a 12' slide would have some sort of support under the flooring. The location of the parts of the frame is important in what you do to correct the problem. Have you measured to see what the dimensions of material you will need? 

Are you planning to do the work yourself? I have been assuming that you will do so and have been basing my suggestions on that. 

The slide is 12’ x 3.5’. I do not see any support underneath.   Tomorrow I will post the picture of the underside. Also going to call keystone and see if they can give me some insight. Yes, we are doing it ourself. If the floor has to come out we will have to get professional help. Although we’ve taken it in 3 times 3 different places and were told at each one “it’s made that way. Can’t help”.