AFM

I inserted the new 152C Thermal Fuse and it all looks good. I am testing on Gas right now, but it did light right up. I am certainly keeping these on hand along with a spare pushbutton reset Thermofuse. Cheap and easy fix.

The fridge ran all night on the electric service and is nice and cold top and bottom. Once the Thermal Fuse shows up I will install it and then run it on Propane for a while.

(DM2652 No Lights) OK well it turned out to be the 152 Degrees C Thermal Fuse. It would pass 12.6V under no load but the resistance went way up under load and the voltage at J4 dropped to 2.4V. I cut it out and voila, I have lights and the refrigerator starts cooling. I shut off the gas and will let it cool overnight on the electric service. 

I ordered these from Amazon for $7.99 (5-pack):

VG_S 5 pcs. 152C G4A00 Microtemp Thermal Fuse 152C TF Cutoff 10A 250V

The Dometic 3850870019 refrigerator thermo fuse seemed to be OK so I left it in place and ordered a spare. I could not find one at Amazon with the pushbutton, but I did find it at AdventureRV.net. It is their part number P318-3850870019.

Thanks again for help.

Thanks both. I am sure it is not the battery or the wiring to the junction block where the 12v connects to the refrigerator. That voltage stays constant when I turn it on. (I also use the trailer as a Ham Radio Shack and all the radios and lights work fine even with the trailer only on battery. I have a pair of 1000 Ah marine batteries up front. ) I will jump +12V right to J4 bypassing the thermal cut-offs and see if maybe they are the problem and will let you know.

On 6/12/2021 at 11:24 AM, Kirk W said:

Jeff t, welcome to the Escapee forums! If you do not get help here I suggest that you start a new thread on this forum, as this one goes back a long time and some may not bother to read it. 

The Dometic 2652 is covered by this service manual from Bryant RV Service.

If the refrigerator has no power, do other 12V systems have power such as your lights, your water pump, the water heater, and/or furnace? That is a quick way to know if you lost 12V power as your refrigerator must have 12V to operate the control systems, even if operating on propane or from 120V shore power.  Does the interior light come on when you open the refrigerator door? If none of those work you need to look for a 12V problem and not a refrigerator problem. If those things do work the first thing to check is the 3A fuse that is located on the power circuit board in the back of your refrigerator. 

Kirk:

I have an interesting twist on this. I keep the fridge on since I am hooked up to A/C when home. The power went out on that line and the fridge switched to Propane. After a while it ran the battery down to the point where the solenoid would go click click click. That noise alerted me to the problem. I turned off the fridge, restored the A/C and charged the system. Now the fridge will not turn on as if it has no power. No lights, etc. I checked all the basics like 12+ volts at the junction box, J4 and the two thermal protection devices. 

This is where it gets weird. If I turn on the fridge in either Auto or Gas mode, the voltage that goes to J4 drops from 12+ to only about 2.5 volts. Any idea?