Sir Traveller

https://imgur.com/a/hwrkgem

so far it is still leaking very slowly ( one drop every few hours ) the color of the oil is golden / brownish 

here are some pics and I hope they show up on this forum 

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 I did replace the oil filter... I noticed the leak after over a week from the time I topped the engine oil ( first I added 5 quarts then 3/4 of a quart 

the oil looks to be forming only on the compressor to the side where the belt goes around it, the rest of the belt is dry  

I will try to post pictures once I figure how to do that on here 

Hello Everyone…

I have a 2003 Ford F-53 RV

Two months ago I did an oil change, the recommended amount was 6 quarts, but most forums recommend adding 5 quarts fits then check the level and add as needed. So I added 5 quarts but got busy and forgot about checking the level and adding more till 2 weeks ago, so I checked the level and added about ¾ of quart… few days ago I noticed an oil leak, I got under the RV and saw the leak was forming around the AC compressor belt, is that normal after oil change? Does that mean I overfilled it? Could it be different type of leak? Or is it a sign of something more serious? Take into consideration I have not drove or moved the RV, I have been hooked up for the last 5 months

I appreciate all the replies, it really help... I will try to give as much information as possible, I am not savvy when it comes to electrical systems and batteries, overall I am still new when it comes to RVs... I did not maintain the batteries well in the first 2 years for the lack of my knowledge about what I needed to do, thus IU am trying to catch up now ... again many thanks to everyone 

8 hours ago, Al F said:

What is the reason you are checking your batteries?  I asked that question earlier.  The replies you have received just tell you what to check to see if you batteries are fully charged.  Not how to check for problems.

 

 

 

there are few reasons, first I saw leak from the caps so I wanted to know if the batteries were going bad or just boiling from being overcharged ( my RV has built-in charger , I do not know if it is smart charger, it is a 2003 F-53 Ford , Four winds hurricane ) I also leave the RV in storage for 6 months a year usually May through November, then hook it up to shore power from November to May, many people notified me that this kind of use does affect the life of the batteries , that is why I wanted to check

So I disconnected the shore power and turned off the house battery switch, I tested the batteries,  and the measurements were as follows: the voltage ( using a millimeter was 12.83 , and when I used the hydrometer, the first battery tested 1.3 and the second battery 12.65 , are these too high? Is it possible to be because of overcharging?

Many thanks to all, all of your comments have been helpful.. I will start by checking what type of a charger installed in My RV

Hello Everyone…

I have a 2003 Ford F-53 RV

What’s the most accurate way to test house batteries using multimeter and hydrometer? Disconnect from shore power then keep few lights on inside the RV to give a bit of load?  Do I have to disconnect the 2 batteries from each other and test each one separately? or no need to disconnect anything ?

I appreciate any suggestions…

Hello Everyone…

I have a 2003 Ford F-53 RV

I usually stay hooked up to shore power for 6 months, then leave the RV in storage for the other 6 months … So after 3 years of this schedule the  chassis battery died even though I was hooked up for months , and now the deep cycle batteries are leaking .. (I did replace the starting battery )

What are my options in this case to increase the longevity of both the starting and house batteries? (Since the charging system is built in) disconnect from the shore power for few minutes every day? For few hours every week?  Should I remove the negative terminal from the starting battery even when hooked to shore power? If so then how often?

Take into consideration that my fridge and microwave work only when connected to shore power… I do not know much about how electric systems work so that is why I ask all these details to make sure I get it right

I  want to add ( in case this could be a factor ) that I am in South California close to the dessert area, in winter it is warm during the day but cool down to mid 30s at night ( at summer when the RV in storage it is usually over 100 degrees at day and maybe 70s at night ) so there is always fluctuation in temperature between day and night but never gets below freezing 32 Fahrenheit

Hello everyone…

I have a 2003 Ford F-53 RV

I have noticed a small leak in one of the house batteries ( I have two 12 volt batteries)

To give you a better history, both batteries are exactly 3 years old, I have driven the RV for 3000 miles on the first year, and since then it has been hooked up for 6 months then another 6 months in storage, I check the batteries and add distilled water every few months, there is no corrosion or any other issues, the RV has a built-in charger that keeps them charged when I am hooked up to shore power.

The RV has been in storage from March till November, last time I added distilled water was in March… when I operated the RV in November ( the chassis battery had died so I had to jump start it ) I noticed that leak or overflow on side of the caps of the second battery… I thought it was because I drove the RV on bumpy road from storage to the spot… last week I changed the chassis battery, turned the RV on for few minutes then changed the oil… then I noticed that small leak again… the panel light indicators ( with the 4 dot lights )  show the batteries are fully charged so I ruled out the issues with charging, also cannot be too much distilled water since I haven’t added any since March… the leak seems very light / small, barely wet area on the top next to the caps… so what could that be acid or water? And what are the possible causes based on the history of the RV I mentioned above ?

Thank you all for taking the time to read my post

On 12/15/2020 at 7:43 AM, oldjohnt said:

Dear Sir, if you only need to top off a small amount, I would use distilled instead of ordinary tap water. A cheap anti freeze tester is so easy to use if there's any doubt about your having the proper mixture and adequate protection.

 However, in the event you need to add a lot, after finding the cause of any excess use, I recommend the factory spec coolant to match your engine (often certain colors such as Yellow/Gold for example in my Ford E 450 Super Duty V 10).

More Information for MOTORCRAFT VC7DILB (rockauto.com) 

 I prefer purchase a 50 50 Pre Mix so you 1) Don't have to worry about the Afz/Water concentration  and 2) In the event you do need to top off a bit you again have the correct concentration not having to worry with water etc.

 When I service and change my cooling system, I thoroughly flush n drain n re flush n drain (using flushing/cleaning agents if necessary),,, add the correct type of 50 50 pre mix,,,, and (maybe your choice) top off with some so called "super cool' or "wetting agents" and (maybe your choice) some anti rust formula.

 Sooooooooo sure Distilled versus tap water for small amount of top off,,,,,,,,The factory approved correct color 50 50 Pre Mix for large amounts or re fill.

 John T  Live dry camped in Lake Panasoffkee Florida, headed to dry camp at Sumter Oaks SKP in Bushnell.

thank you very much for all the info

the coolant appear to be green through the recovery tank , I will try to find it in the link you provided 

On 12/15/2020 at 5:27 AM, Kirk W said:

You really don't have much to be concerned about with the level now if you do not start the engine but, do not add any water as it will then affect the proper mix ratio. What you should do is to buy a gallon of premixed coolant to use and if you know the brand that is in your radiator, use the same one to add, but if not just the same type. Premixed coolants are readily available at any auto parts store or at Walmart, Target, or a host of other places in their automotive department. The partially used container of premixed coolant will not be harmed by closing it up and storing it. I have always kept some coolant in my vehicles for the occasional adding that may be needed. With your Ford V-10 the reservoir is ample enough that you won't have any need to do anything immediately, but I would pick up some of the premixed coolant at your next opportunity. The Ford chassis that we had did require the addition of a little bit of coolant occasionally but it took me several years to use up an entire gallon of premix. If you should need to add very much coolant or do it frequently, then you need to learn where that coolant is going.

thank you very much, I am not driving it for now so I wont add anything, but I will look for the matching coolant which appears to be green 

On 12/14/2020 at 9:42 PM, Barbaraok said:

Gas or disesel?  Do you crack open the radiator, or view level through a sight glass (small round glass in side of an expansion tank?    

It would help if you put a signature line with some info on the type of rig you have.  You'll note that a lot of us have such info available.  

Gas... it is low on the recovery tank not the radiator ... I haven't driven the RV much in the last couple pf years, and it was in storage for 8 months from March till November, it might have been low since before but I just noticed 

engine coolant, I inspect it visually 

My coolant level is about 2 inches lower than the cold level,  do I have to buy and add coolant even though I am not driving the RV right now ?  ( its hooked up at an RV park ) Can I just add distilled water?
  
    I will eventually add coolant before I drive it in the future of     course but my question is regarding the current situation 

      I appreciate any ideas and suggestions … 

thanks to everyone who replied, all the advices helped a lot

I have few questions regarding which battery to disconnect in the following scenarios:

1- I am replacing the starting battery on my Ford F-53, should I just shut off / disconnect the starting battery? Or disconnect house batteries too ?

2-I want to spray battery terminal rust protector on both chassis and house batteries, should I disconnect both in the this case ?

3- I want to start the RV (while in place without moving it) , should I disconnect the house batteries ? or just turn off the RV Park electric box ?

Thank you

thank you ...

the only season I am asking about changing the filter is because I have never done that and do not even have the tool to loosen it up

Hello Everyone…

I have a 2003 Ford F-550 RV ( four winds hurricane 6.8L ) , I want to replace the chassis battery and do oil change , which one should I do first? Take into consideration the last oil change was nearly 3 years ago, ( the RV only been driven 3000 miles in 2018 and been in RV Park since then, I only drove it 100 miles or less in the last 2 years, total mileage is 31,000)  the RV was in storage for 8 months from March till November, I had to jump start it to drive it to the hookup spot. The battery is completely dead at this point.

I know that usually I should start the vehicle to warm it up then shut it off before an oil change, but in this case ( and if I replace  the battery first) is it a good idea to let that 3 years old oil run into the engine again???

Also a secondary question:  is it necessary to replace the oil filter too?

I appreciate any tips and suggestions

Thank you