heebeha

So, just fill the holes with mastic even though they wont touch the pipes, take off the aluminum tape in put over the crevices and holes?

I wire wheel brushed both plates so the aluminum is shiny, removed all the corrosion and put aluminum tape over the holes. What do you think, will the tape cause more harm than good?

See photos of what I did.

My new cooling unit comers today. I would really appreciate some feedback ASAP today. Please any help will goa long way.

Before and after photos can be seen here: http://zetal.com/98fleetwood/dometic-refrigerator.html

Looking at a few aluminum filler:

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/tools/Applicators/Caulk-Sealants/metal-patch-fill-50345-3-oz-tube?infoParam.campaignId=T9F&gclid=CLzJ9qDhr80CFdgSgQod3wMGCA

http://www.autozone.com/sealants-glues-adhesives-and-tape/epoxy-compound/permatex-3-1-2-oz-tube-liquid-metal-filler/552885_0_0/

http://www.autozone.com/sealants-glues-adhesives-and-tape/epoxy-compound/blue-magic-qs-high-temperature-metal-repair-trilingual/515553/?_requestid=3270319

I know I need to fill the voids. Cant be good to leave it as it is now

Thoughts?

Should I fill the cracks and gaps on that plate with the thermal mastic? I am, getting a tube with my new cooling unit. There are 2 holes that go all the way through the back plate that I need to fill don't you think?

I pulled out the bad Cooling unit the other day and discovered a lot of corrosion on the aluminum plates.

What can I use to repair corrosion on the freezer aluminum plate and refrigerator fins back plate on my Dometic rm2652? I bought a new cooling unit, its in route, I want to get the fridge ready to go back together today. Help

the aluminum is pretty badly corroded, with a couple holes that go all the way through and deep crevices. I am hoping there is a product like JB weld I can use to fill in the holes and deep crevices.

Attached are photos to help explain what I am referring to and show how bad it is.

Who have you bought from Kirk?

I flipped the fridge a couple times. I heard a lot of liquid moving back and forth. Running it now direct on 110v. No change...

Which company do you recommend to buy a refurbished cooling unit from? There are several companies online that sell them for the same price.

$425 plus $40 shipping and contingent upon core return

http://www.rvcool.com/Dometic_Pricing.htm lifetime warranty

http://www.rvrefrigerator.net/dometic_pricing1.htm lifetime warranty (looks like the same company)

http://rvcoolingunit.com/RM2652-Dometic-Cooling-Unit-605a-P10760.aspx AMISH - 3 year replacement warranty and a 5 year for leaks

http://www.rvfridgehouse.com/CUPricing.htm Five (5) YEAR LIMITED WARRANTY

NEW: $630

http://www.arcticoldstore.com/dometic-rm2652-brand-new-manufactured-cooling-units-lifetime-warranty/ lifetime warranty

So what do you think. Get her hot before i flip it over and bang on pipes?

As I said earlier, the propane and 110v get the boiler and Absorber tank and absorber coils get hot.

The fridge doesn't get cold inn propane. It acts the same on 110 and propane, as I initially described. It has 12.9 volts DC to the control panel.

Should I try taking it out and flipping it upside down before I buy a refurbished cooling unit?

I took a photo of the OHM reading at room temperature and the OHM meter so you can see how I have it set to take the reading. Please let me know your thoughts. Could a bad Thermistor cause it not to get cold? Anyway to bypass it? Could bad ventilation be causing it not to get cold? I pulled my fridge out half way to try and get some separation from the wall as it was pretty tight. I have water damage I am repairing, including the wall in the fridge area.

I don't see any yellow muck in the back or in the fridge. the camper is a 1998 so I am sure its that old.

I read that carbon/ammonia cubes buildup could be the issue. Is there a way to break the carbon/hard ammonia up maybe when all the pipes are hot I could tap on them all and loosen it, break it up?

I cant believe that I can run some kind of solution through maybe some pressure and blow out the lines. It seems silly to me that it is not serviceable.

What is this threaded cap on the tank for if its not to serviced the cooling unit lines?

Hey Kirk you seem to be an expert on these RV dometic refrigerators so I am hoping you can help me too.

I have the same unit RM2652 and took some electronic measurements. I am not an expert on the electronic test meters but think I did it right.

I set the OHM meter to 20k and got these readings:

Heating Element:
39.5 (I know you said 44ohms was right but is 39.,5 ok)

Thermistor:
4.79 at around 75 degrees

11.25 when put into ice cold water

At 20k ohm on meter does this seem right for the thermistor ohm reading?

I am getting 12.9 volts (same as my brand new deep cycle battery) to the circuit board.

Both fuses are good, I checked with the OHM meter, both are working.

I am having the same issues as the initial poster. LP works, tank gets hot, leveling tank/chamber gets hot, I hear gurgling from that leveling tank. its not consistent though, sounds like its trying to boil.

My brother said a good RV place can recondition an RVs cooling unit, blow it out and refill it with the proper elements/chemicals. Is this true? I don't know why is would not be so, I have a bolt that looks like a refill area on the leveling chamber. What is that for if not refilling or checking, etc?