bertnspike

1 hour ago, Ronbo said:

Where are you located? I would replace the switch first. It is bad. When I had a class A I had fuses under the hood and also above my left foot. There should be a relay near the batteries that the switch controls. Follow the positive cable and you should find it. If you have volt meter check voltage at starter solenoid when the key is turned. 

I am in Bushnell, FL.  I've known for years that I SHOULD have a meter.  I guess this is my wake up call!  Harbor Freight is in Leesburg; I guess I'm going there tomorrow.  I do need a 2nd person here to help, so all this will have to wait for tomorrow.  Judging by what you've said, it does sound like that switch is bad, or a fuse between that switch and the battery is gone.

In no hurry right at this moment.  Just discovered that SECO Energy did not turn on the electric at my new site.  My spoiled self uses too much power for me to go over there without hookups, so I'll get a meter and get another pair of hands, and take my time getting this right.  I may be getting back to you!

Thanks so much. Ron.

1 hour ago, ARGO said:

95% of all electrical problems turn out to be bad ground. Have you tested the + post to anything on the frame w/ a meter.

Not making fun of your situation, but some porta-pot humor

"Here I sit with a broken heart. Took my last bennie & my truck won't start"  and under it

"That was stupid. Start truck FIRST, THEN take bennie.................."

Funny!  I don't have a meter.  Will have to see if one of my neighbors has one.

3 hours ago, Ronbo said:

Sounds like a faulty switch. When you turn it does it actually disconnect power? You can tell by turning on the ignition and have someone watch the idiot lights. Is the switch just a toggle switch on the dash? I’d so it goes to a relay that may not be passing sufficient amps. Is it a switch you rotate? If so you can pull the switch and connect all cables to one post. Is it gas or diesel? Do you have a large fuse in your battery compartment? If so that would be for the ecm. Can you check voltage at the starter while someone turns the key? 

The switch is a lighted toggle switch by the door. I don't know if it actually disconnects the power from the chassis battery, as I have no power from that battery in the first place.  The light on the switch does not go out (it used to, before I had this problem, and it used to stay flipped off), and it does not stay flipped off.  The RV is gas.  I have not had a chance to look for a fuse near the batteries - there is no "compartment".  All 3 batteries are right behind the grille.  The only fuses that I know of are in a small bay right behind the front wheel on the driver's side.  There are 4 large fuses (besides the millions of small ones) there that are similar to a GFCI, in that I can push a button and a lever flips out that I can push back in.  I don't know how to tell if any of the 4 are bad.

Thanks for your considered response.

3 hours ago, dennisvr said:

Did it start after installing the new batteries?

Yes.  I started it every week until 2 weeks ago when I got lazy and skipped a week... now this.

And BTW, I am NOT a "new member", I just haven't posted in more than a year.

2005 Gulf Stream Independence, gas.  I have new AGM batteries.  According to my gauges, all 3 have a full charge.  The RV won't start.  There are none of the typical dead battery behaviors - no clicking, no lights flickering, nothing.  All of my normal dash lights do not come on when I turn the key.  Even the radio light is out.  When I flip the chassis battery disconnect switch it springs back into the ON position and won't stay off.  I have tried to jump the battery and I have tried starting with the booster switch that pulls from the house batteries.  I have checked all the fuses I can find.  I don't know what else to do.  Any ideas?