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So I built a box with the manufacturer prescribed ventilation. I noticed that the unit's check light came on, which as I understand it is the refrigerator's way of telling me that the fire did not light. Well the heat coming from the flue tells me otherwise. Has anyone else experienced this phenomenon in which the check light powers on despite the flame burning well? Would this interfere with normal efficient operation? Unfortunately the interior did not get cold, or for that matter even cool. It seemed to have gotten warmer. I see that on ebay I can buy a refurbished cooling unit with a 2 year warranty. Although the price seems fair, I wonder how likely is it that I might take my refrigerator somewhere and have it repaired without having the coils completely rebuilt. Perhaps this possibility may carry a lower price tag than the $440 + $85 S & H. Does any have any input they would like to share with me? Thanks in advanced!

You ladies and gents are very knowledgeable and generous in sharing it with me. Thank you all. I contacted the folks at https://www.rvcoolingunit.com/ and learned that this model has a PC board and must have DC power to the PC board before anything will work. I'm embarrassed to say that I don't know what that means. Could someone please put it terms that this layman might understand? I'm assuming that it means the refrigerator must either be plugged into a standard household electrical outlet, or it must somehow be connected to a battery (like the kind in an RV or car). This (perhaps false) assumption of mine leads me to suspect that the propane is responsible for the cooling whereas the electricity powers the thermostat, on/off switch, and an automatic kill function for the gas supply if the flame goes out. Am I close?

Yes. Unfortunately I did, but fortunately I think I may be able to get a refund.

Darryl&Rita, thanks for the analogy. I totally got it. By the way, nice avatar. I remember listening to that cassette on a walkman in the 80s! lenp, thank you for your anecdote. I actually would have asked if anyone had done what you explained. Lucky for me, you preempted it. How right you are Kirk W. I eventually found the installation and operations manual. It can downloaded at the below link. Dometic Americana Model RM2652 & RM2852 The manual even tells you how big the cutouts need to be for the upper and lower vents. I should have done better researching prior to purchase. It turns out there is a recall on this model, as explained here at the official Dometic website. Based on my unit's model and serial numbers, it is affected. According to the website, a secondary burner housing kit needs to be installed. The site warns that if there is a yellow residue at the back of the refrigerator then it must be shut down and not operated until the above mentioned installation is completed. There is a yellow residue on the back of my refrigerator. Based on the brief research I've done a few days ago, it sounds like that symptom means that it is "toast," and that a replacement cooling unit costs hundreds of dollars and takes hours to install. That being said, I assume that my fridge will not cool. If I get the secondary burner housing kit installed at no cost at the local service center, can I expect my refrigerator to function properly?

Oops, I didn't mean to post yet. It seems so counter-intuitive that to insure air flow it is mandatory to have enclosure or constriction of sorts. I invite someone to attempt to make me understand. : )

I'm have a very difficult time understanding how an enclosure facilitates air flow. I assumed it would do the opposite. Thanks Kirk. Although the manual is actually for a model different than the one I own, the DOMETIC MANUAL REFRIGERATOR DIAGNOSTIC MANUAL on page 17 says: In a good installation there should be as little open space as possible surrounding the sides and top of the refrigerator to achieve proper airflow. All potential dead air pockets should be blocked or baffled to insure that heat from the cooling unit won’t be trapped in these spaces and reduce efficiency. In addition, the cooling unit should be at least one inch from the nearest surface made of combustible materials.Please follow the installation manual for proper dimensions and clearances. . . . The addition of a metal chute the width of the enclosure, that extends from the upper side vent, will help eliminate the possibility of dead air pockets. It helps direct the hot air out the exhaust vent.The best method for venting the absorption refrigerator is with a lower side vent and a roof vent. Do you think all would be fine were I just to install the fridge in an outdoor open area under cover where it will stay dry and out of direct sunlight?

1. Can the Dometic fridge model RM 2852 be used outside of an RV, hooked up to a 20# propane tank fitted with a regulator set to 11" water column? 2. Do pretty much all of these RV propane fridges have the same port to receive propane? The above model has a male flare fitting, though I don't know what size it is. Could someone please tell me? I have a PDF of the owners manual. I can't find the answer I see within its pages. Thanks to all in advance.