Jump to content

BigDinAZ

Validated Members
  • Content Count

    9
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About BigDinAZ

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    AZ

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I absolutely agree with this. That's why I got the big end Ram. I am only looking at a 13-16K lb 5er, I have plenty of starting and stopping power, with or without trailer brakes. In fact, I won't even know it's back there most of the time. Nice truck by the way, I almost purchased the Volvo VNL780 (I took my CDL test in one), and also drove one for a while. I love those Volvo's, but the ones with the Cummins.
  2. This is another topic that is just as controversial as the how much can I tow question. Ford, Chevy, GMC, Dodge. What's your preference? Short bed, long bed, what's your preference. Now days they have sliding hitches that compensate for turning and backing. Back in the day those things didn't exist. That said, I have a long bed, old school I guess, but as to say which is better, well I think it's a matter of opinion. Just my .02
  3. Well truth is to those that say you can go over manufacturing numbers. DOT is going to use those numbers, NOT what you think you can go over, he is going to go by the stickers the manufacturer says. If you are over that, he is going to nail you. Period! If you have an accident, and the investigation determines you were over manufacturers ratings, insurance company is going to say yes, good luck with that. If you kill someone and are over manufacturers numbers, well, sucks to be you. No man, I hear ya. Just because you are doing it, does not mean you are doing it safe.
  4. Here is something else to consider. Real easy way to determine SAFE tow rating. Take the CVWR, subtract the GVWR of the truck, and this gives you a SAFE number to stay under as far as GVWR of a trailer. Example: Truck has a CVWR of 27,100# Minus GVWR of truck which is 10,000# this gives you a SAFE tow rating of 17,100LBS. Stay UNDER that GVWR trailer. Just look at the sticker usually on the left or right front of the trailer and look for the GVWR. Take 20% of that, and you will get close to pin weight to know if payload can handle, then calculate CGVW numbers and you will know what you can SAFELY tow. Good luck!
  5. I agree with others, I think you may be pushing it. First of all, as stated you need to use GVWR of trailer, but let's use the dry weight of 10400#. 20% of that would be a pin weight of 2,080# Now take another 1,000# off for you, wife, fuel, hitch, that leaves about 1,000# of payload. Remember, this is based on a DRY trailer with no propane, water, food, clothing, gray and black tanks, I think you get the picture here. You are going to exceed payload capacity, it adds up quick!
  6. Lol yea I have a CDL and to me a heavy duty truck is a class 8, the HD branding is just a marketing thing. The other thing about semi trucks is you have the option of sliding the tandems on the trailer and can adjust the weight on the drive tires, we don't have that option. Yes the 80 percent rule is a good guide, as is the 15 to 20 percent mentioned avove. People think they have a truck rated at 20 thousand pounds, so that's the trailer they can haul. Heh, if it only worked that way....
  7. Yes, The pin weight will add to the payload capacity. You are going to find out the same thing I did. I had to get rid of the 2500 for towing a larger 5er. The remaining payload you have left is on the little yellow sticker inside the driver door which you said is 1,776#. Any 5er that I have looked at have a hitch (pin) weight of a minimum of 2,000#. Right there you are over weight. Yes they make light 5ers, but they are going to be small. Some say the gear ratio makes no difference, but I don't agree, here is why. The higher the gear ratio, the more torque, which means less stress all the way around. Remember, the ratings you see in the ads are based on a stripped down vehicle, such as a tradesman. The higher up in package you go, the less towing and payload because there is more stuff added to the truck. I just went through all of this, and I learned this the hard way. Here is what I did. Got rid of the 2500, and picked up a 3500 dually. It's the Laramie package with the 4:10 Gears. I have a GVWR of 14,000# rear axle rating of 9,750# and free payload of 5,704#. But because I have a Laramie package my max towing is reduced from 30,000# to like 21,660#. Remember, all the 5ers I looked at have a pin weight of 2,000 - 2,500 lbs. Add my weight, the wife, fuel, tools, fifth wheel hitch and that's another 1,000 lbs or so which leaves me with between 2,000 and 1,500 lbs free payload left, so towing a larger fifth wheel just became doable, with more than enough left over as far as payload and axle and all that. Google RAM Towing Chart, and you will find all the charts that will help you understand all of this. It's a very controversial subject, and they don't make it easy to understand. Now with all that said, you also have to figure in CVWR. If you get stopped (and they do stop RV's), they are going to look at GVWR of truck and GVWR of trailer and then compare that to what is on the scale. In some states, 25,601lbs or more, it's commercial and you DO need a CDL to drive it, Arizona is one such state. So that is where I am at now. Have truck, looking for 5er now. I learned more on a few weeks about all of this, because I want to be safe. Remember, just because you are doing it, does not mean you are doing it safe. Hope this helps. D
×
×
  • Create New...