Jump to content


Validated Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About jtown

  • Rank
    Full Member

Optional Fields

  • SKP#
  • Lifetime Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  1. Yeah, I learned about the forgotten load thing when I parked my RV. I forgot I'd given the CB an uncutoffable power source because it's also a weather alert radio and should have power at all times. Not a big deal for a week or two but it'll drain a battery good over the winter. Pulling the negative cable from the starter battery would have saved me from that. Also, look to see if there is an "emergency start" button. That's basically a jump start from the coach batteries to the starter battery. It won't help the charging situation but it'll get you started if you need it when you get back.
  2. Might check the hose clamps. I had one fail on my Ford V10 engine. They used the type that just squeeze really tight and one of them corroded and broke while I was parked in New Orleans. When I started the engine, coolant came flowing down the side of the engine.
  3. You can get a basic battery tester for 20 bucks from Amazon or a fancy one for $50-100. A basic tester will put a 100 amp load on the battery and display the voltage. You use a chart to determine what your voltage should be based on the CCA rating of the battery. It gives a basic gist of what kind of shape your battery is in. The fancier testers give more accurate results, taking into account the type of battery you're testing. And, even if the batteries test fine, do a trial run that's longer than you'd expect to be on battery power. (Unplug the electric from the house during the testing and trial run, of course.) Check the rating of your unit's 12V power converter to get an idea how long you'll have to run the generator during the day to replace the energy you used the night before. As for voltage while connected to shore power, 14-14.5 volts is normal while charging and 13.5-13.8 volts when the batteries are full or near full. If you're plugged in and seeing 12.5 volts at the battery, that could indicate a problem. If you're unplugged and seeing 12.5 volts that's good but you still need to have a decent load to know if your batteries are good. That's what the battery testers do. Also, there should be a "control panel" somewhere that shows you the status of the batteries, holding tank levels, generator run time, etc. When you're doing your trial run, you can keep an eye on the battery level. Definitely test the batteries. When I bought my RV (used), I brought it home and plugged it in to run the fridge and test various things. Make sure it all worked. I left it plugged in to keep the batteries charged. A few weeks down the road, my power went out. "Ha, ha! I've got a 5kw generator. No roughing it for me." The coach batteries were so dead the generator starter motor didn't even click. By the time I got home with new batteries, the power was back on. Bring sleeping bags (or lots of blankets) as a backup. I've slept snug as a bug in a blizzard with no heat but a good sleeping bag. I wasn't happy about it but I was comfortable. Also, you probably have high and low speeds for the fan. Low speed will use less power. If it's not particularly frigid, that's an option to extend run time.
  4. Obviously, I'm not really worried about security since I've had the RV 4 years and this is the first time the engine compartment's been locked. It wasn't worth the hassle of finding a key until I got locked out. It just seemed a little lax when it took me less than 5 minutes to break in while causing no damage. Good deep cycle batteries aren't cheap and they're sitting right there. Aaaaand I forgot to pull the battery which was the whole reason I was trying to get in there yesterday.
  5. Reached up with a long wrench and loosened the nuts on the back of the locks and turned the whole assembly 90 degrees. So now it's unlocked. Took one of the locks to Camping World and, after much research a parts counter guy determined that the key is probably the Southco E3-5-15. Picture looks right for the lock and Amazon can get one to me by Sunday for $6.99. Happy day! In other news, if anyone wants to break into the engine compartment of an old Georgie Boy, it's really easy and, if a wrench is too hard, Amazon will sell you a key for $6.99.
  6. Thanks but it's a round key like this: It occurred to me last night that I can probably detach the arm assembly from the chassis then slide it up and out. I should be able to reach that hardware from underneath. Then I can remove/replace the locks. I'm going to swing by this weekend with some tools and an inspection camera and see what I can accomplish.
  7. Oh, I missed that you can buy someone's grandfathered plan. Wow. Hadn't occurred to me that Verizon would allow that. And now I know I can unload my plan for $$$ some day.
  8. As I said, they deny locking it and therefore can't possibly unlock it because they didn't lock it in the first place and would never have locked it if it came in unlocked even if they did have the key which they don't...
  9. If you change your mind, there are other ways to add another camera. I used a cheap webcam and an active USB extension cable connected to a laptop mounted on my engine's doghouse. I used it to make sure my Samurai was tracking properly. It had a habit of swinging to full lock in tight turns or on dirt and I wanted to make sure it castered back if that happened. The cable ran from the front to the rear and through a service panel on the back wall. I bolted the webcam to the back of the rock guard. When parked, I just tossed the cable behind the bed. There are cables up to 50' for around $20 on Amazon. As for navigation, I'll give another vote for CoPilot. I paid for it years ago (before you could just put a destination in Google Maps) and it's still good for the latest version. Does the usual RV stuff like height and propane restrictions, lets you give preference to road types, etc.
  10. I'd definitely try new cartridges and a cleaning before giving up. FWIW, tho, I've not had much luck with Epson inkjets at home. The longer they sat, the worse they clogged. I switched to Canon about 5 years ago and haven't had a clog since. I can let my $20 Canon sit for months and the first page comes out perfect. I've never run a cleaning cycle on it. The only time I've been happy with Epson inkjets is when they were in environments where they were used at least a few times a week. In those situations, they shined. I actually miss the Epson proof printer from my last job.
  11. That. Is. Insane. My setup was 30-60 minutes depending on whether I set up the big computer with the triple monitor display. That's picking my position in the space, leveling, slides, power/water/sewer hookup, satellite setup, TV setup, computer setup, internet setup, and throwing out the doormat. But it's sweet that they found each other in this huge world.
  12. The BattleDesk. Bolted to the passenger seat and recliner mounts, peripherals packed while driving. It worked really well.
  13. So, going to the original question, is it really worth it? Seems like you're trying hard to take umbrage with something that isn't really a big deal. Just leave the plate on and you don't have to worry about it. It's not like putting a front plate on a Ferrari where it's going to destroy the lines and disrupt airflow. If that's the most annoying thing in your life, congratulations! It's an awesome place to be. FWIW, I lived most of my life in CA where a front plate is required and lots of people don't display them and the cops rarely bother to write a ticket for it, let alone pull people over to write a ticket. Most of the time, no1curr.JPG. But then there's that one time you run into the cop who cares and you've got a $50 (I'm guessing) ticket you didn't need to get. These days, I live in a state that only issues 1 plate. I assume 2-plate-states won't issue me a ticket because of reciprocity and whatnot. I've got some Caribbean plates around here somewhere. Maybe I should put a St. Maarten plate on the front my car just to be safe.
  14. I'm not quite sure what you're asking. You can't just choose a grandfathered plan. "Grandfathered" means it's an old plan that is still supported for people who have it but no longer offered to new or existing customers. I have it and it's awesome but that's not really relevant to someone who doesn't already have the same type of plan. The only advice I can really give is to people who still have such a plan: Don't give it up!
  15. Does anyone know if the Georgie Boy Cruisemasters share a common key for the engine cowling's barrel locks? I've never had the key. My RV was a repo so I didn't get every item one would normally get. The barrel key was one of them but it didn't matter because they were unlocked and the cowl stays shut when closed. But I took it in for inspection and an oil change a few months back and they apparently locked it after changing the oil. I didn't realize until I went to take out the engine battery to charge it and "bonk bonk" the locks are locked. The shop refuses to admit they locked it and their best offer is to drill the locks out so I can buy new ones and put them in. They actually suggested that the locks (both of them) vibrated into the locked position during the 5.5 mile drive from the shop to the secure storage yard. Right. The alternative is that the storage yard owner has a collection of barrel keys, noticed that my engine compartment wasn't secure, and locked it for me. Or there's a rogue reverse vandal sneaking into secure lots to do the same. So before I make an appointment and schlep the beast down to the shop or call a locksmith, I figured I'd see if I can get a key for the existing locks. I suppose an easy way to remove the existing locks would also work. I might be able to reach the back of the locks from below.
  • Create New...