TRW Power Steering Unit Part 2:

[SuiteSuccess]

To follow up, I tried in vain to DIY my seal.  Just to get the steering shaft off the input shaft took over three hours due to “rust weld”.  Took lots of Kroil, some heat, and persuasion.  Seal ring was also corroded and after trying to clean and remove for couple of hours, decided to take to shop.  Took them three hours to remove and replace the seal and I was checking regularly.  They were not padding the bill.  Posting now due to new problem that arose.  Background:  When I removed the shaft from the spline, I marked the U joint location and replaced in the same place.  Apparently the shop didn’t and I noticed to center my steering, my steering wheel is now canted at a 45 degree angle, maybe a shade more.  The shop said they would fix it but they are 60 miles away and hopefully it’s a pretty simple DIY fix.  What I’ve researched says to jack front tires off ground.  Start engine and turn wheels full left and full right and count steering wheel revolutions.  Divide by 2 and then turn back that number to find center of box gear travel.  Then remove shaft, center steering wheel to horizontal and replace shaft.  BTW my input shaft does not have a groove in the shaft that the pinch bolt sits in to help center.  Is this the procedure?

[rickeieio]

Yup, that'll work.  But, before doing all that, just pop the shaft off and relocate in what looks to be the right position.  Rinse and repeat, as necessary.  Now that the shaft is "unwelded", you can do this several times before it adds up to all that jacking/ turning, etc.

 

 

Edited November 3 by rickeieio

[Deezl Smoke]

 Yep, that's it. The pitman arm is usually straight up and down for center, then respline the steering shaft.

[SuiteSuccess]

1 hour ago, rickeieio said:

Yup, that'll work.  But, before doing all that, just pop the shaft off and relocate in what looks to be the right position.  Rinse and repeat, as necessary.  Now that the shaft is "unwelded", you can do this several times before it adds up to all that jacking/ turning, etc.

 

 

But wouldn’t your method require a test drive after each rinse?  Whereas the “centering” would not?

[lappir]

1 hour ago, SuiteSuccess said:

But wouldn’t your method require a test drive after each rinse?  Whereas the “centering” would not?

If you have to start the truck to do either one of them, then it would be best to just run back to the mechanic and have them fix. You will get the truck up to operating temp before you leave it sit for a bit again. JMHO

Rod

ps the truck I drive currently has a similar wheel deflection. It bothered me a bit at first, but now I kind of like it. 

rl

[Jaydrvr]

The simple way is just to pull in straight to a spot, pull off the knuckle and re-center the steering wheel. They didn't change any of the geometry of the drag link, etc. Since it's already been recently removed, it should take about 90 seconds to re-center the wheel. Check it next time you drive it to see if it's maybe off a tooth. Jay

[rickeieio]

9 hours ago, Jaydrvr said:

The simple way is just to pull in straight to a spot, pull off the knuckle and re-center the steering wheel. They didn't change any of the geometry of the drag link, etc. Since it's already been recently removed, it should take about 90 seconds to re-center the wheel. Check it next time you drive it to see if it's maybe off a tooth. Jay

Yep.  Different words, same idea.  Knowing where Carl parks, and how careful he is about things, I'd bet the wheels are pretty much centered now.  The splines on the shaft are coarse enough that one tooth off would be very obvious, so it'd like be correct on the first try.

[SuiteSuccess]

The splines on my input shaft are small and very fine.  Still the concept should apply that y’all suggest.  Will give it a try.  Thanks.

[lappir]

2 hours ago, SuiteSuccess said:

The splines on my input shaft are small and very fine.  Still the concept should apply that y’all suggest.  Will give it a try.  Thanks.

Small to you maybe big to others. 

Suggest you have a helper at the steering wheel. Pull it apart. Have the helper get the steering wheel straight and hold it there while you slide the knuckle back in place. Have helper do a little juggle of the wheel to make sure it's still straight. Good luck.

Rod

[rickeieio]

4 hours ago, SuiteSuccess said:

The splines on my input shaft are small and very fine.

My misteak.  Pour choice of words.  What I should have said was that given the small number of splines, each represents a lot of degrees of turn on the steering wheel.  I wouldn't be surprised if the coupler is only off by one tooth.

And no bleeding on this job.

[SuiteSuccess]

Got er done.  Knuckle had to be turned quite a bit.  Thanks for all the help.  No blood.

BTW, Rick, is “misteak” the winner of an Indiana County Fair Beauty Pagent? 😜😝.  (Couldn’t let it pass).

Edited November 4 by SuiteSuccess

[rickeieio]

I have a big rubber eraser, like we had in grade school, only it weighs a pound, that says, "I never make big misteaks."

If you'd noticed, I also used pour instead of poor.  Just seeing if you were awake. 😁

Did you count the splines you had to move the knuckle on the shaft?  Or count the number of splines?  I'd be surprised if there are more than 20 splines, so 18 degrees each, at the steering wheel.