No air to trailer supply, all of a sudden

[trimster]

So, I adapted the trailer air supply to give air for tires, etc. Used the other day to fill and top off tires. Today, I activate the trailer supply at the dash and get a mear puff of air out of the hose. No sound of air leaks. It's like there's just a trickle of air now.

Where do I start looking for the problem?

 

[Deezl Smoke]

 Ok, captain obvious here. I do not mean any disrespect, but I know I can do this, so.......are you sure you have the hose hooked to the red glad hand?

[trimster]

It's been this way since I built the bed and ran the airline. Always worked fine. So yes, RED glad hand. No disrespect.

[HERO Maker]

Explain your adapting the trailer air supply to give air for tires.

[trimster]

I used the original coiled airline from the gladhand. Connected 25' of air hose to the rear of the bed. That gives me a 3' pigtail to air up the hitch if needs be or connect an additional air hose. Simple setup.

[ddm502001]

Tractor Protection Valve is failed.  Cylindrical usually attachment point of the air lines to the chassis.

Should look similar to this.

[trimster]

45 minutes ago, ddm502001 said:

Tractor Protection Valve is failed.  Cylindrical usually attachment point of the air lines to the chassis.

Should look similar to this.

So I'll find this drivers side. Rear of cab where the glad hand attachment is?

[Sparky242]

My truck is a 2000 Volvo and there is a valve that looks like that under the left rear corner of the cab.   The only way I can get to it is to remove the fairing. It might have been move when the last owner had the bed installed but that is where mine is, I have my air hose connection connected to it also. 

[rickeieio]

Bob,  I'm reading in your first post that the air flow is very small, but still some flow.  Correct?  If so, the valve could be fine, but there is a restriction in the line somewhere.  Remove the line you installed in the valve up front and see if you have flow there.

[ddm502001]

Both descriptions are correct, some were actually INSIDE cabs with a exhaust line to outside(Primarily IHC Products).  Is classified as a TP-3 by Haldex, buy NEW.

[trimster]

1 hour ago, ddm502001 said:

TP-3 by Haldex, buy NEW

As in Volvo expensive new, or aftermarket new?

[Darryl&Rita]

Just now, trimster said:

As in Volvo expensive new, or aftermarket new?

NAPA, even carries Volvo parts for less.

[trimster]

Big thanks folks. Travel day today. Alamogordo to Tucson. I'll dig into it there.

[Deezl Smoke]

10 hours ago, HERO Maker said:

Explain your adapting the trailer air supply to give air for tires.

 For example.

Walmart link to air hose for tire fill from semi truck

[Deezl Smoke]

1 hour ago, rickeieio said:

Bob,  I'm reading in your first post that the air flow is very small, but still some flow.  Correct?  If so, the valve could be fine, but there is a restriction in the line somewhere.  Remove the line you installed in the valve up front and see if you have flow there.

 I also wonder if maybe a rubber air hose in the system has separated and the internal liner has collapsed, which might explain the initial puff, then trickle. ? Or maybe if the glad hand is still being used, the rubber seal has slipped into the air stream?

[ddm502001]

Most all of the plumbing to/from these should be Nylon Tube.

[HERO Maker]

This reminds me of a time when one of our original HDT guys (I am blanking on his name) had actually just left Retama in the RGV and was noticing something really different about his braking!  After disconnecting lines starting at his glade hands at the truck, and working towards the trailer, he discovered a mud dauber had clogged his line just inside of where the 1st line from the truck connects to the transition part going into the trailer.  Yes, he had to take the individual fittings off and blow air through the line to know where his blockage was.  The dauber had entered through the disconnected glad hand and went all the way through that twisting springy line to just inside the trailer! That is when a lot of us started using glad hand covers, in many different styles, to stop that from being a hassle.  Good luck.

Edited March 19, 2023 by HERO Maker
spelling

[lappir]

Rocky, 

Good to see you posting again. 

Rod

 

 

 

[HERO Maker]

Thanks Rod.  Just missing everything about being on the road again!  But, in time!

[trimster]

Soooo, it's nice that I built the deck plates in sections so I can just undo a few screws and have access to everything under the bed.

And lookie what I found. The airline got pinched between the frame of the truck and the bed sub-frame. Ya Huston, that would be the problem.

New line ordered.

[rickeieio]

Ditch the curly-cue line.  Run a straight piece of line, and secure it to the wiring harness, other air lines, frame straps, anything to prevent it's getting in harms way again.

Good thing you took a peek under there rather than just throwing parts at it.

[jenandjon]

I like the removable deck plates. Thats on my list of things to do. My bed came out of a junk yard.  I welded and screwed everything solid because when I ran the generator the rattles were loader than the generator itself. 

[trimster]

ran the generator the rattles were loader than the generator itself.

I put vibration isolation mounts under the feet of my generator (actually for washing machines). Those cut 90% of the vibration being transmitted to the bed.

as well, I put rubber strips between the deck plate and the beds frame. That stops rattling as well.

[ddm502001]

Glad you found Simple to Fix, and not expensive.

 

Dave

[jenandjon]

23 hours ago, trimster said:

ran the generator the rattles were loader than the generator itself.

I put vibration isolation mounts under the feet of my generator (actually for washing machines). Those cut 90% of the vibration being transmitted to the bed.

as well, I put rubber strips between the deck plate and the beds frame. That stops rattling as well.

I will look for some. Probably found at appliance stores?