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Service brakes not holding truck at stop


BPepper

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My 2001 Volvo service brakes have recently started to not hold at stops. When I stop at a stop sign, red light, etc with normal brake pedal application the truck will sometimes start to roll either forward or backwards depending on the incline I'm on. If I mash the brake pedal it will stop and hold. I've been driving this truck for 3 1/2 years and its only recently started doing this. I've checked all the brakes and the lining is still good, slack adjusters are self adjusting but I did check and they are correctly adjusted. The parking brake holds good. Only the service brakes. Any ideas on what to check next? Thanks

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When was the last time the adjustment was checked? What is your air consumption like with the brakes applied? Do you hear any leaks with the brake pedal pressed?

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication
2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet
2007 32.5' Fleetwood Quantum


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When the service brakes are applied my air pressure stays at 120 psi per the dash gauges. I just checked the adjustment last week. I don't hear any audible leaks when the brakes are applied. I was laying under the truck while my son applied and released the brakes with the truck off. 

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Could be relying on one of the two circuits under light applications.  Have someone else LIGHTLY apply brakes with wheels Chocked and Parking brakes release, listen and look for actuation as brakes apply, may only be Steer or Drives on light apply where on Parking go full spring application.  With parking applied, Slack Adjusters should not rotate beyond 90 degrees to Chambers.

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7 hours ago, BPepper said:

Just went and started the truck again. Now, when the service brakes are applied with engine running pressure is dropping to around 100 psi. 

That's a signal. There has to be an air leak, somewhere, to see a drop like that. Diaphragm or air hose, or a leak inside the air treadle valve inside the foot pedal. Time to put some ears to it again.
ETA: Along with what ddm... posted, are you using the dash knobs the same as always? Running in bobtail mode can decrease your effective braking.

Edited by Darryl&Rita

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication
2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet
2007 32.5' Fleetwood Quantum


Please e-mail us here.

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I am using the dash knows the same as I allways have. What do you mean by bobtail mode? All I have ever done was release the parking brake and drive. The trailer supply knob is used to supply air for a bed lift for loading a smart car. I have only used it a few times to lift the bed to clean under it. All I have ever done when bobtail or towing is release the parking brake. 

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I believe what Darryl is referring to, is that only pushing in the yellow knob, on some trucks, will only give the drive axles about half the braking force as when both knobs are pushed in.  Our 2001 Volvo was that way, so it's likely yours is too.

Did you buy the truck with the brake supply providing air for the lift, or did you build it that way?  

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
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Start truck, let air pressure build up. Turn truck off, key back on but do not start. Push and hold the brake pedal applying 80 psi on the application pressure gauge. After 30 seconds, the tank air pressure should not drop noticeably from the initial drop when you pushed the brake pedal.

Also, any truck that was factory built as a tractor since the early ‘90s had a brake proportioning valve. This valve reduced the pressure to the rear wheels to help reduce the chance of skidding when bobtail. The red knob is the trigger for the proportioning valve.

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Yes, push in the red knob and try it.  Hopefully, whomever modified your truck left the important bits intact.  The gladhands have no bearing on tractor brake function.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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If you still have gladhands, they need to be blocked off so they don't leak when you push in both air buttons. If your gladhands are removed and capped, it's already done for you. Push in both buttons and watch/listen for air leaks. Alternatively, you can replace the proportioning valve with a regular valve and avoid all that. Jay

Edited by Jaydrvr

 

 
 
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1 hour ago, BPepper said:

Where could I purchase a regular valve at?

Any truck repair and parts place will have that. Just explain what you want to do and have them supply you with the correct valve. I don't remember exactly, because it's been over twenty years and my mechanic did it for me. Jay

 

 
 
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