Buying a Freightliner to pull a fifth wheel

rv Ed · February 14

Hi Guys.

I drive a 2016 F350 dually with a 6.7 diesel pulling a 20000 lb fifth Wheel. average 7.5 mpg.

Going up a steep hill slows me down to 40 mph.

Looking at buying a 2018 Freightliner Cascadia with a dd15 automatic 2.47 differential tandem axles. Will remove the rear axle and build a bed. What do you think.

Darryl&Rita · February 14

1 hour ago, rv Ed said:

What do you think.

I think you're on the right track.

GlennWest · February 14

Freightshakers has this name for a reason. Plastic breaks. Good solid drivetrain but cheap dash.

D&J · February 14

2 hours ago, rv Ed said:

Hi Guys.

I drive a 2016 F350 dually with a 6.7 diesel pulling a 20000 lb fifth Wheel. average 7.5 mpg.

Going up a steep hill slows me down to 40 mph.

Looking at buying a 2018 Freightliner Cascadia with a dd15 automatic 2.47 differential tandem axles. Will remove the rear axle and build a bed. What do you think.

Sounds like you have the wrong rear gears in your truck for the load.

Denny

GeorgiaHybrid · February 15

Any class 8 truck will pull better, stop better and, in general provide a better ride than a pickup. Our KW got 8.1 mpg today at 50,000 gross running 68mph.

Sparky242 · February 15

I bought a HDT and sold my F-350, never looked back. Better Ride, better power and better stopping, and can drive much longer comfortably (when necessary). I pull about 16,000lbs and get 9mpg at about 65mph. I just love driving it. See if you can get an inspection before you buy it. I bought mine in an online auction so no inspection and got lucky it's been a great truck.

Deezl Smoke · February 15

22 hours ago, rv Ed said:

Hi Guys.

I drive a 2016 F350 dually with a 6.7 diesel pulling a 20000 lb fifth Wheel. average 7.5 mpg.

Going up a steep hill slows me down to 40 mph.

Looking at buying a 2018 Freightliner Cascadia with a dd15 automatic 2.47 differential tandem axles. Will remove the rear axle and build a bed. What do you think.

I think it is a great idea. That combo likely has a DT-12 trans. It is a great system for what you wish to do.

What brake system are you going to install? Do you have a hitch brand and model in mind?

hemsteadc · February 15

Find out what kind of exhaust system it has. If it has a DPF, don't plan on using it as a grocery getter.

rickeieio · February 15

Sounds like a good plan, in general. If you are set on having a single rear axle, rather than removing one, remove both and swap it for a heavier axle built to handle the input loads supplied by that engine. Removing an axle just leaves one, now undersized, unit and eventually it will cause the input bearings or ring and pinion to fail.

That said, if you don't plan to full time, why single it?

DanZemke · February 15

Quote

Removing an axle just leaves one, now undersized, unit and eventually it will cause the input bearings or ring and pinion to fail.

My Volvo 770 is a tandem Class 8 rated for a combined weight of 80K. I intend to remove the mid-axle and have the the rear axle moved forward. My trailer weighs about 25K pounds and I expect my singled Volvo to weight about 15K pounds.

It doesn't appear to me that my drive line will be stressed more than a common 80K road tractor and trailer.

Edited February 15 by DanZemke
clarity of thought

rv Ed · February 16

On 2/15/2023 at 9:08 AM, hemsteadc said:

Find out what kind of exhaust system it has. If it has a DPF, don't plan on using it as a grocery getter.

Why would a factory DPF not make a good daily driver / grocery getter.

rv Ed · February 16

On 2/15/2023 at 8:48 AM, Deezl Smoke said:

I think it is a great idea. That combo likely has a DT-12 trans. It is a great system for what you wish to do.

What brake system are you going to install? Do you have a hitch brand and model in mind

Factory brakes on the truck and fifth Wheel. I will remove the commercial hitch and install my B and W 25000 lb hitch with a Trail Air pi box.

hemsteadc · February 16

2 hours ago, rv Ed said:

Why would a factory DPF not make a good daily driver / grocery getter.

Maybe some do, my Cummins 8.3 does not. If these engines aren't worked hard enough, and don't get up to temperature for long enough, or the regeneration process is not working as it should, they will soot up.

"Oftentimes, blocked diesel particulate filters are caused by short journeys at low speeds. Vehicles operating at low speeds on short journeys are unable to meet the requirements for the filter to clean itself."

Edited February 16 by hemsteadc

rv Ed · February 16

On 2/15/2023 at 9:44 AM, rickeieio said:

Sounds like a good plan, in general. If you are set on having a single rear axle, rather than removing one, remove both and swap it for a heavier axle built to handle the input loads supplied by that engine. Removing an axle just leaves one, now undersized, unit and eventually it will cause the input bearings or ring and pinion to fail.

That said, if you don't plan to full time, why single it?

I am looking to buy a tandom and single it. Remove rear axle. This will create a 202 inch wheel base for easier turning in rv parks and easier / shorter parking when using it as grocery getter/ daily driver. Or would it be better to remove the front axle and install the rear axle in it's place.

GlennWest · February 16

Front axle not designed for continuous use. If you go this route remove front and replace with rear. What you stated was done when the first few were converted. They fail. Lesson learned.

DanZemke · February 16

I agree with Glenn - remove the center axle and move the rear forward.

Also, tandem axle Class 8's usually have a single ABS controller for both axles. A straight forward solution is to buy a new controller for a single axle. But that can be costly. Another approach is to relocate the sensors that were on the mid axle to to the rear axle. Yes, they will have two sets of sensors when only one is needed. But since the relocated sensors are accurately sense any wheel spinning, they work fine and the controller is happy too, because it thinks it is getting signals from both axles.

About Glenn's reference to very early conversions. In at least one case, there was another problem. The ABS warning light was always on. The converter's solution was to use a piece of black tape to hide the ABS light!

Still, the guy (I think his name was Larry) almost single handedly, jump-started enabling used HDTs as RV haulers. Thanks Larry.

Pappy Yokum · February 16

Don't think anyone mentioned - visit the *HDT forum* (here) for more of the xln't info you already received - as well as friendly advice and questions answered. ie: talk to the folks who own & drive HDTs and (usually) tow long & heavy 5ths.

😉

GeorgiaHybrid · February 16

4 hours ago, GlennWest said:

Front axle not designed for continuous use. If you go this route remove front and replace with rear. What you stated was done when the first few were converted. They fail. Lesson learned.

41 minutes ago, DanZemke said:

I agree with Glenn - remove the center axle and move the rear forward.

Also, tandem axle Class 8's usually have a single ABS controller for both axles. A straight forward solution is to buy a new controller for a single axle. But that can be costly. Another approach is to relocate the sensors that were on the mid axle to to the rear axle. Yes, they will have two sets of sensors when only one is needed. But since the relocated sensors are accurately sense any wheel spinning, they work fine and the controller is happy too, because it thinks it is getting signals from both axles.

About Glenn's reference to very early conversions. In at least one case, there was another problem. The ABS warning light was always on. The converter's solution was to use a piece of black tape to hide the ABS light!

Still, the guy (I think his name was Larry) almost single handedly, jump-started enabling used HDTs as RV haulers. Thanks Larry.

If the truck is a 6x2 with a tag axle (becoming more popular with companies) you can just pull the rear tag axle as the front tandem axle is the only drive axle of the pair.

DanZemke · February 16

1 hour ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

If the truck is a 6x2 with a tag axle (becoming more popular with companies) you can just pull the rear tag axle as the front tandem axle is the only drive axle of the pair.

Interesting info. But he said he's looking at a specific truck that does not appear to have a tag axle.

Edited February 16 by DanZemke
clarity

rickeieio · February 16

1 hour ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

If the truck is a 6x2 with a tag axle (becoming more popular with companies) you can just pull the rear tag axle as the front tandem axle is the only drive axle of the pair.

Totally agree. That configuration was very common years ago, not so much these days. This would give you the short wheelbase AND the heavier input/gear set needed to be reliable with the torque loads these motors generate.

Look at any single axle road tractor. It will always have a heavy (23k rated) axle v. the two 19k axles commonly found as a tandem. BTW, the 23/19 numbers have nothing to do with weight capacities.

Pappy Yokum · February 22

On 2/16/2023 at 1:38 PM, DanZemke said:

Still, the guy (I think his name was Larry) almost single handedly, jump-started enabling used HDTs as RV haulers. Thanks Larry.

Larry Ziegler (sp=?) - commonly referred to as "Larry Z".

NO Thanks, Larry!

"Thanks" evaporated after one (or more) of Larry's conversions were a bit "fly by night" - and discovered after the fact by the owner/s. (front brakes in-op!). Some of the folks (Jack Mayer) on the HDT form can elaborate if desired - as it was all posted (which may have been lost when the forum was re-designed)...😕

BTW: Larry even had a "How To" conversion guide available for sale.

.

Believer45 · February 22

What about buying a single axle road tractor? Rental companies sell single axle day cab and sleeper equipped tractors, no conversion needed. Ryder Truck Rental shows single axle sleeper trucks for sale on their web site.

https://ryder.com/used-trucks/vehicles/semi-trucks/single-axle-sleeper-tractors

Dave / Believer45

Edited February 22 by Believer45

jenandjon · February 23

Mine has been singled I kind of wish I had a tandem. It is what it is. I would never go back to using a pickup truck again.

rickeieio · February 23

23 hours ago, Believer45 said:

What about buying a single axle road tractor? Rental companies sell single axle day cab and sleeper equipped tractors, no conversion needed. Ryder Truck Rental shows single axle sleeper trucks for sale on their web site.

https://ryder.com/used-trucks/vehicles/semi-trucks/single-axle-sleeper-tractors

Dave / Believer45

I had a used Ryder truck on the farm (Mack with 800k miles). I would buy from them again.

And yes, a factory single is ideal, if you can find one that suits you.

As to removing a tandem set and replacing with a single v. just removing one axle, has anyone priced it both ways? I doubt there's much difference, and having that heavier axle would give peace of mind.

Star Dreamer · March 1

We have a Freightliner Century that we have had for over 10 years now. It was singled short, with the rear axle being moved to the location of the front axle. If I were to do a new truck, I would single mid and put the rear axle between the two axle locations, of course this depends on what wheelbase we are starting with.