The_Real_Santa Posted February 14 Report Share Posted February 14 I saw a post from back in 2016 about this same issue. I have an issue that is the same and can not figure it out. 2018 F250 with OEM brake controller. 2018 jayco travel trailer. This is an intermittent issue. I can be driving 10 min or sometimes 2 hours and then I will get the message Trailer wire fault as I start to press the brake pedal. The trailer brakes go out. I press deeping into the pedal and they sometimes come back on and very hard. Sometimes they don't come back on. I have had the 7 pin checked, I have replaced the pig tail from the trailer, I have cleaned up the wiring in the box on the front of the trailer. I have had new brakes and pads and hub replaced 4 times. I have pulled the break away and re seated it. Still never know what the brakes are going to do until I start towing. Sometimes it never happens, then the next time I go out 30 min down the road all the sudden without even pressing the brakes I will get the error message. It seems to happen a lot when coming off the highway on an exit ramp and you have to slow down faster than normal, or get deeper into the brake. RV dealer said trailer is fine, Ford dealer said truck is fine. HELP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrknrvr Posted February 14 Report Share Posted February 14 What vehicle are you towing with. If it is a GM truck there maybe a connection on the frame on the drivers side at or behind the rear wheel... it has been 4 years or so since I had that situation on a service call. Now I have to think back 4 +- years. The farther I go back the slower it is getting. Vern Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrknrvr Posted February 14 Report Share Posted February 14 Well I guess I forgot what I already read today. Age related I must say. F250. Meters now needed with shake, rattle and roll under the truck, trailer wiggling things. To find a possible loose connection. A starting guess, Vern Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lou Schneider Posted February 14 Report Share Posted February 14 Check the connections under the trailer, where the wire from the front branches off to the axles. Not conducting and then breaking through under higher voltage is the classic sign of a corroded connection. The last trailer I owned used regular non-weatherproofed wire nuts where the axle wires fanned off from the main harness and of course the connections became corroded over time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Real_Santa Posted February 14 Author Report Share Posted February 14 Yes it is a Ford F-250. The problem is it does not do it all the time. I can hookup and town 2 hours before it will do it. Other times I get 1/2 a mile down the road and it starts doing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted February 14 Report Share Posted February 14 That sure sounds like a problem with bad connections. Have you checked out the connections inside of the socket on the truck and the plug of the trailer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Real_Santa Posted February 14 Author Report Share Posted February 14 Yes we actually took it to Ford and they said the 7 pin had a loose wire they fixed it and still didn't fix the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrknrvr Posted February 14 Report Share Posted February 14 (edited) I will tell you a trick i leaned years ago. But be careful doing it. I am not at fault if there is a problem. First of all install a q-tip in a small drill. Yep it works. Careful install the q-tip in the female trailer plug end. Rotate the q-tip medium speed. Move from from one hole to the next. Do it carefully. It can clean the holes up nicely. Then clean the outside of the male ends on the outside. With say 1500 grit sand paper. Just get them bright on the sides. Now for the final trick. This must be down very carefully. The male ends should have a slot in the pin. This gives the pin the ability to compress, but still keep tension on the female receiver. Now take a really small screw driver, or utility knife and spread the pins just a small amount. Through years of rv repair I have used that trick on several frustrating wiring issues between vehicles. And it did fix several problems like you are seeing. Vern Edited February 14 by Wrknrvr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lenp Posted February 15 Report Share Posted February 15 Check the ground connection(s). Both trailer and truck. Find them all and clean them up! Don't ask how I know that! Lenp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RV_ Posted February 15 Report Share Posted February 15 17 hours ago, lenp said: Check the ground connection(s). Both trailer and truck. Find them all and clean them up! Don't ask how I know that! Lenp X2, been there done that, when a wheel bearing burned up in Washington State on our return from a season in Alaska. We had a "bad but looked good" connection in the electric brake wiring. As well had ground issues with brakes or lights with boat trailers as well as fivers we found after buying used. More were easy to fix but like the old Lucas Electrics on old MGs I have had to disconnect every connector/clean/replace and sometimes never know which one it was. I restored classics so it was expected. Tedious but always fixable replaceable. Hang in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray,IN Posted February 17 Report Share Posted February 17 (edited) Then even after doing all that cleaning and tightening, you may come to find the controller is faulty. They do wear out too. The way I discovered a controller was bad, I installed a temporary voltage meter in the brake wire coming out of the controller. That was an old rheostat type brake controller, not a newer electronic controller. Edited February 17 by Ray,IN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted February 17 Report Share Posted February 17 I suspect that if you crawl under the trailer and trace the brake wires, you'll find either wire nuts or "Scotch-Locs". If you find either, take them apart and be sure the wires are clean and bright. If you find a scotch loc, place it on a solid surface and hit it with a big hammer, then throw it away. Re-assemble using good connectors and some type of water-proof sealer. Also, the above advice to check your grounds is correct. Far more than half the time, the issue is a poor ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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