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Newbie needing advice: what to look for in a used RV?


danielsomers

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I want to buy something to use in the southwest for 4 - 6 months and would love some advice. It's just for me, solo, so I don't need large. And I don't want super fancy. No overstuffed lounge chairs or big screen tv. I'll mostly be driving it to one spot in Arizona and probably not traveling too much once I'm there, so I don't think I'll put more than 8 or at most 10k miles on it. I also will probably put up a large awning or canvas tent once I'm there, so the RV could potentially be fairly small, as they go.

Budget is limited, so I'm considering two possible ways to go about this. One is to get something newer and nicer and then sell it next summer--I can afford the cash now I just can't keep it tied up long term. The other is of course to get something older but still reliable. I have a pretty good sense of reliability for cars, but this is a whole new world for me. 

A few possibilities I've seen so far are a 1990 Toyota Itasca, 70k miles, for $10,000; a 1993 VW Eurovan camper for $6,000 that looks in good shape but had the transmission switched from auto to 5 Spd so "estimated" mileage of 1k miles (I know...I would proceed with great cautions!); and a very nice looking Dodge transit van with a full camper conversion for $36,000...I think mileage was something like 70k.

So really the two main questions are: Would I just be asking for trouble with those first two? And with the third, how hard is it likely to be to sell next spring or summer and how much is it likely to depreciate? Of course, something between those extremes may come up, so I'd also love any general advice on what to look for. Thanks!

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Welcome to the Escapee forums! The first 2 choices could be good if you are mechanically adept and know how to reprit things in an RV. You would also need to spend some money to have a professional pre-purchase inspection of either in order to know it they are in reasonabley good condition. Any RV that is 30 years old is going to need some money spent in getting it roadworthy and reliable and will probably need an appliance or two replaced. The Toyota has an NADA suggested average price of $3050 so at $10k you would be paying nearly 3 times what you could expect it to sell for. The VW is more reasonable in price. If you are not planning to spend more to get the RV ready for travel, the Dodge sounds like a better opportunity but even then you would be smart to have it professionally inspected before you buy. I think that if you only plan to keep it for 6 months or less, you would probably be smarter to find an RV park that has RVs or park models for rent and do that. There would be far less risk involved. 

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

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New or used, there are some things that should be checked before you buy.

Although this list was meant for NEW purchase, there are many items on the list that should spark an idea of what to look for.  I wasn't able to upload the PDF this information came from so, I used the copy/paste method.

This list is quite extensive, but by the end, you'll be going into the sale with your eye wide open..

  • Check for gray & black tank labels (exterior) installed in reverse order

    Fenders not attached to center support 

    AC electric breakers were labeled wrong or not labeled at all

    Fuses blowing on electric slide out during operation

    Damaged bed slide seals (from rain gutter)

    Check all slide out seals for rain leaks

    Check antenna crank handle for water leaks (on roof - check caulking)

    Check all roof-opening sealants for cracks/leaks

    Water leaks around shower/behind tub surround/tub faucet

    Exterior A/C gasket leaking water to interior of trailer

    Check all "access door" for rain leaks (might have to use hose)

    Check exterior compartment door seals for water leaks

    Cracked plastic LP bottle cover (if equipped)

    Wrong size mattress on bed 

    Remove vents & look in ducks for signs of crushed air duct

    Cabinet doors rubbing cabinet face when opened

    Loose exterior wires where battery attaches to frame & battery

    Water tank gravity fill hose (inside) too high to allow water tank fill

    Loose plumbing fittings / pinched water lines

    Look for loose or missing trim

    Cracked medicine cabinet housing near mounting screws

    Check mirrored door for security of mirror

    Check all electric switches for proper operation (on AC & DC)

    Fit & adjustment of entry doors, & screen doors

    Ensure bathroom vent fan turns correctly (should blow OUT)

    Stereo for reception/interference - DVD Player - MP3 Player

    Loose wires/burning wires inside converter

    Electric slide outs blowing fuses/check slide several times

    Emergency Exit Use - anything blocking access to handle or exit

    Gas struts that close doors & some beds -- make sure they are secure!!

  •  Section 2         This section should take around 1 hour. At this point, you're generally searching for anything that doesn't look right.  The  assumption for this PDI ( Pre delivery inspection) is that both (if fitted) propane tanks are full, shore power is available, city water connected via hose & you 
    are connected to a sewer connections. A fully charged battery must be connected as well.

  • Roof Sealing & Fixtures - You will need to get up on the roof now so round up a ladder or 
    carefully inspect the one on the back of the unit. Check that all the mounting points are solidly attached to the body & the rungs are firmly fixed to the frame. Climb on the roof & inspect all seams, gaskets & any other place that the roof material has been cut or holes drilled. Check that all shrouds & covers are intact, unbroken & properly seated on the roof. Proper polyurethane caulking should have been used to seal all places where the roof has been penetrated. Check closely around air conditioners, vents, antennas, sewer vents, & side seams. Look for any signs of bubbles (large & small), delamination, foreign objects or protruding screw or nail heads under the membrane (if a rubber roof). ** Take shoes off...best in your socks or barefoot. 

  • Windows - Check closely around each window to make sure it has been properly aligned & sealed.

  • Entry Doors - check the gasket used on all doors for proper adhesive & coverage. Look closely at the door from the inside & confirm that it sits flush against the inside of the doorjamb. Confirm that each key works in the appropriate lock. The main door should open & close smoothly & lock without undue effort. Check that the screen door opens smoothly alone & locks to the main door without any extra effort.

  • Outside Compartments - open & close each door checking for alignment & gasketing. Confirm that each key works in the appropriate lock All hinges should be tight & secure & the latches should hold the door tightly closed & still be easy to open. Look for any signs of moisture that might indicate rain leakage. Verify that compartment lighting (if fitted) works properly. Any gas cylinders used for keeping to door open should be properly installed so as not to interfere with items stored in the compartment. If clamp-type door hold-opens are used, make sure they are present & hold the door correctly.

  • Sewer & Fresh Water Connections - Inspect this area on the trailer to make sure that nothing is broken or deformed. If appropriate at this time, make sure you understand how each valve or fitting works. understand the proper function of the black & gray water valves. If tank flushing is installed, understand how it operates. understand where the low point drains are for the fresh water system.

  • Cable TV Connections- Find & understand the cable connections. Make sure a weather cap is present for each connector & that connectors are properly identified & mounting plates are properly sealed.

  • Propane -If the tank(s) are contained in a compartment, here should be no possible way for 
    propane to enter into the RV or any other compartment. understand how the regulator works & how it switches between cylinders. Confirm that a leak test has been performed on both pigtails between the tanks & regulator & the rest of the system. Locate & understand the operation of the main shut off valve (if any).

  • Battery - Check the battery box to verify that it is ventilated & that any compartment slide 
    mechanisms work properly. Verify that no battery cables are rubbing on any part of the frame because that will eventually end up with a short circuit & possible fire. understand the battery type provided & how to maintain them.

  • Tires & Wheels - Closely inspect the tires & wheels & understand the proper inflation pressure. Verify the torque of the lug nuts or have the PDI person do it while you watch. Find out the proper jacking point for the trailer & what kind of jack to use. Determine if your tow vehicle lug nut wrench will fit the lug nuts on the trailer or if another size is necessary.  Check the condition and pressure in the spare tire as well as how to remove it.

  • Paint & Siding- Carefully check the paint finish on the RV. Any problems can be verified & 
    corrected at this point with a lot less hassle. Site down the side of the unit to check for bumps or depressions in the siding. Divide each side of the unit into 2, 3 or 4 sections & inspect for siding issues: color variations, dents or irregularities. Do the same for the ends of the unit Look at places where vinyl film is used to make sure it is free of any air bubbles. Check ends of any decals for uniformity or "mistakes" that may have gouged the siding. Look closely where masking tape was used for paint graphics to make sure there is no over-spray. Carefully check for surface smoothness & any place when paint coverage is marginal or where there are bubbles. 

  •  Awning(s) - Extend & retract each awning paying particular attention to how the awning is locked in the retracted position. Make sure all springs, locks & supports work well & are properly aligned. Wiggle the mounting points for the support arms to get a feeling for how solidly they are mounted to the body.

  • Slide Out Operation - If your RV includes a slide-out or slide-outs then spend the time it takes to understand its operation. Start by checking the seals while the slide is retracted. You should not be able to find any places where you can see light or detect airflow. Use a flashlight to look into dark corners. understand the mechanism that extends & retracts the slide. Operate it several times & understand any restrictions on operation. understand the manual retraction process & actually perform the retraction as if the automatic mechanism had failed. Look for proper alignment of any wheels that may ride on carpet or other flooring, to insure proper clearance. understand any locking mechanisms that are used to hold the top of the slide out tight against the top of the RV. Do your best to make sure the seals are properly installed & operational when the slide is retracted & also when it is extended.

  • Chassis Inspection - Put on some old clothes or coveralls & get a good-sized piece of cardboard or carpet to make it easier to lie on you back while checking around under the trailer. If it's possible to do so without jacking up the rig, it's a lot easier, but do what makes sense to you. You want to be able to Inspect all air & / or hydraulic lines, wiring, shock absorber attachments, & in general every place that a wire or pipe could rub against something that could cause a problem later. All wiring & piping should be properly fastened. 

  • INSIDE FIT & FINISH 

  • Cabinets - Inspect & open all of the cabinets to insure that the hinges & latches work well. Pull each drawer out to its stop, return it closed & then try to open it like road vibration might do. Makes sure that there have been no water leaks & that all the wiring & pipes are well fastened. Inspect the linings (if any), to insure they are fastened securely. Run your h& along all edges, front & back to check for & delamination or loose edges on molding/vinyl wraps.

  • Molding & Trim - Go over all the trim on walls, doors & furniture. Make sure that everything is fastened on well & not loose or ready to come off.

  • Lighting - Operate every light switch & observe its function. Use the monitor panel to check battery levels. understand & verify any battery disconnect switches. (at this point, only 12V lighting can be tested, as the unit is NOT connected to shore power yet)

  • Closets -open & close all closet doors checking for free operation & proper alignment. Hanger rods should be properly fastened & secure. Check out the lighting that is provided & any switches that are used.

  • Furniture - Examine every piece of furniture to check for construction, upholstery, pattern & cloth matching. Check out the dinette by making it a bed with the appropriate cushions. Do the same with the couch or sofa.

  • Blinds - Operate each blind & check for alignment. Look at all valances & trim to be sure they are secured.

  • Counter Tops - Inspect all counter tops for alignment & fastening. Make sure that any trim pieces that should be there are in fact tight. Check for caulking quality everywhere there may be water, especially edges near a sink. Check the installation of sinks & faucets.

  • Floor Coverings - Inspect carpet & other floor coverings in all corners to insure that they have been properly fastened down. Check areas that slide outs may roll over for pulled threads, cuts or other problems. Check closely for gouges or cuts in linoleum tile.

  • Wall Coverings - Check to make sure that all the wall coverings actually cover & join properly. Look for any discoloration or patch jobs that may cover hidden problems. Try to find any places where it is not perfect since now is the time to get it fixed while matching patterns are in stock. (Some folks suggest ordering extra fabric, carpet, & wallpaper now so that matching material is available to make small modifications or repairs at a later date.)

  • OPERATION TEST OF ALL SYSTEMS

  • Shore Power System - Now is the time to connect up to shore power. Pull out all of the AC cord, confirm the length & inspect the plug for proper attachment. Inside the unit, check any 110V lighting & switches. (If you have a 110V receptacle tester, check all outlets for proper wiring/polarity.) Find the GFI-protected outlet & test using the push button. understand which receptacles "down stream" from the GFI are protected. Any electrical problems here should be corrected immediately.

  • Converter - Confirm the operation of the converter/charger that is installed. Turn on several interior lights to create a load for the converter & confirm no excessive converter noise or vibration. Have the PDI person explain the operation of the converter, the AC circuit breakers & the DC fuses. Make sure that there is a written list of the loads connected to each. 

  • Water Pump -  fill the fresh water tank, so now you can test the 
    function of the water pump. After turning it on, you should hear it pump for several seconds, even up to a minute to create enough pressure in the system. If the pump does not shut off, then there is a problem. Run water in the kitchen & bathroom sink & notice that the pump will come back on until proper water pressure is restored. Now is the time to fix a noisy pump if it is vibrating or making any irritating sounds.

  • City Water System - Turn off the pump, connect up to city water (use a regulator if overly high pressure is suspected) & confirm that the connection works correctly. Look for leaks under sinks & confirm the operation of all fixtures.

  • Air Conditioners - Some air conditioners also have a heat strip or heat pump feature so now is the time to verify these functions. Turn on the air conditioner. After a couple of minutes, cool air, 20 degrees cooler than ambient, should be coming out of the registers. If you unit has ducting in the ceiling, make sure a good airflow comes out of each register. Learn how to clean the filters at this time.

  • Propane & Carbon Monoxide Alarms & Smoke Detector- now is a good time to check the 
    function of these alarms. The PDI person should have a small canister of gas that can be sprayed at the alarm to test its operation. Have them perform this test while you watch & learn how the alarms work. Confirm that there is a new battery in the Smoke Detector (write the date on it for reference) Activate the test button to check operation of the smoke detector. understand how to turn it off.

  • Tanks - Re-fill the fresh water tank if necessary & run water into the gray tank to verify the gauge reading & that there are no leaks. Filling the gray tank until water comes up in the shower will make it easier to find leaks inside & out. Do the same thing to the black water tank, including filling so that water comes up inside the toilet. Check for leaks (if the toilet is installed correctly, there will be no leaks!) You can fill the black water tank by using the tank flushing system (if fitted), by using a garden hose adapter for the sewer connection (through a backflow preventer) or by bringing the water hose inside & filling the tank through the toilet. This last method can be a little cumbersome, & I don't recommend unless you've done it before. Check the gauges for accuracy while you are filling Now is the time you want to find leaks if there are any. Drain the gray & black water tanks using the sewer hose or the garden hose adapter.

  • Furnace - Now its time to understand the operation of the thermostat that controls heating & sometimes the air conditioning. Turn the furnace on & set a temperature dem& that is at least 10 degrees hotter than ambient temperature. In about 30 seconds, you should hear the furnace fans come on. Shortly thereafter you should hear the click of the igniter & the sound of the burner. If not then there is a problem. It could also be taking a while for propane to get to the heater, so don't despair. Let the furnace blow & you should get hot air at about 110 degrees coming out of all vents. Check each one. Now turn the furnace down & the hot air will gradually turn cooler & the fans will eventually stop after the furnace has cooled sufficiently. During this process have someone with a good nose checking for any smell of material getting too hot, or exhaust coming out.

  • Water Heater - Try the water heater on propane first. A few seconds after you turn it on, you should hear the click of the igniter & the small pop when the burner lights. The red light should stay on until that process happens. If it does not ignite, then there is a problem. Turn the AC element in the water heater (if connected) & confirm operation. Make sure you know the location of the electrical switch at the water heater & the correct operation of the interior switch. If your unit is so equipped, understand the operation of the bypass valves for winterizing. Confirm that hot (or warm water depending on how long the water heater has been on) comes out of the hot tap at the various sinks.  Check the sacrificial rod to see if there is any material left on it.  This may take a 1 1/8" socket or something similar.

At the end of all of this, you will have a very intimate knowledge of the vehicle. Anything not operating as it should, can be a negotiating point for the price of the RV.

This does not cover checking the running gear if you chose a motorhome.

Best of luck. hope this was helpful

(information borrowed from www.outbackers.com) please return it when you are done.

 

+++++++++++_____________________________________+++++++++++

2021 Ram 3500  2017 Arctic Fox 25W(to be traded??)
HAM guy (Ke7FIX), photography, woodworking (mostly sawdust),
Electronics Technician,  USAF DAV

Going where everyone has gone before

 

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