Air leaks - again

[hemsteadc]

After 3 years I'm really getting tired of chasing air leaks on my FL M2-106.   I thought I had this tamed last year when I replaced the cab bags, and I did, for about 2 weeks.  This time I've done my best to inspect every single point of failure, and I've found nothing, but I'm going to zero in about 8 hours. 

I'm thinking everyone must deal with this, so, do you guys have a time interval you allow for leaking down, even to zero, before you consider it critical? 3 hours, 8 hours, a day.. what?  

[Jaydrvr]

If you're going to zero in eight hours, that's really good for some of us. My 1999 Volvo is lucky to go an hour or two before arriving at zero. That's perfectly okay with the DOT, so it's okay with me. You can drive yourself crazy hunting down phantom air leaks. I would suggest being a bit more relaxed about it. Jay

[hemsteadc]

42 minutes ago, Jaydrvr said:

 I would suggest being a bit more relaxed about it. Jay

Thanks.   The more I know the easier it will be to relax.

[Ray,IN]

If you've already been under with a spray bottle of soapy water and found nothing, consider the one-way valves in the compressed air system. When they leak air pressure is slowly released but no visible leaks are evident.

[hemsteadc]

14 hours ago, Ray,IN said:

 consider the one-way valves in the compressed air system.

Where are they?

[Ray,IN]

50 minutes ago, hemsteadc said:

Where are they?

Usually they are at the exit from, or entrance to compressed air storage tanks. 

I hope this shows up: https://ibb.co/PYyZ6B4

Check valves are left of the red circle, near the center of the drawing. Your air system should be very similar, with locations varying.

Edited August 27, 2022 by Ray,IN

[Jaydrvr]

Just FYI, I was reminded by another thread, kinda related.. Air leaks are temperature sensitive. I've always been more aggressive about chasing leaks in cold weather. When the seals are cold, they shrink and leak more, so they're easier to find. Successful leak chasing in the winter makes for a pleasant summer driving season. Jay

[Ray,IN]

 If you locate an air leak at a push-in connector, there is a specific method to correct the leak.

To replace the parts is pretty straight forward.
Please release all the air pressure in your system before attempting this repair!

1. Depress collar on fitting and remove line.
2. Remove brass collet. I use a pair of needle nose pliers.
3. Remove O-ring. Sometimes a bit of a challenge. I use a set of " dental picks" one straight and one with a 90" bend at the end. Use the picks to remove the O-ring. Most times it will be dry rotted and come about in prices. Make sure to remove all of the pieces. Insert new O-ring and be careful not to damage it.
4. Insert collet. Most times I will use the old one if it is still in usable shape. Most times the o-ring is the cause of the leak.
5. Trim off the end of the line before inserting into the "rebuilt" fitting. I like to do this when ever I have enough slack in the line. Sometimes it's not possible. When inserting the line into the fitting press the line in until it "bottoms" out in the fitting before you pull back on it to lock it in.
6. Pressure up your system and check for leaks. Sometimes a little wiggle on the line after it is pressurized will help it seat.