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Red Loctite


SuiteSuccess

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When it cools a bit going to tackle repacking my wheel bearings.  After my debacle with my Kodiak Disk brakes and some of the bolts backing out, new bolts were reinstalled with red Loctite at the suggestion of Kodiak.  I know it will come loose with heating to about 500 degrees but have been seeing some videos of dissolving it using chlorinated brake cleaner which seems better and safer.  Anyone ever done this or something similar and does it work?

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I was wondering if I was the only one having issues with my Kodial disc brakes! I have had caliper bolts coming loose caliper brackets breaking on the Right rear on my tandem axle toy hauler.  I am using the red locktite. Never tried the brake cleaner idea but have not had issues taking them apart either.  I have the MORryde 8k IS  the right rear caliper bracket breaks off the top ear of the bracket.  I'll bet over the last 2 years I have replaced it 4 times. Torqing everything to spec the bracket bolts at 85 ft lbs and the caliper bolts at 45 ft lbs and red locktite.  No other issues, alignment is right on no excessive tire wear or anything indicating an issue. It's frustrating to say the least!  The last time just a few weeks ago the bottom bolt came out and the caliper pivoted after the bracket broke and wedged in the wheel, when your towing with a 475 hp tractor you can't feel it until it's too late and a $500 tire is smoked and $600 wheel is damaged.  It's pretty much part of my daily pre-trip routine now to check the caliper bolt torque. 

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The brake area may get hot enough to make lower temp lock solution moot. If you do run into issues breaking it loose, try heating the tool. It is what I do to take off Jeep hoods and the like, and is much cleaner than trying to heat the bolt directly. Use a long socket/allen/torx and heat it while resting on/in the bolt. 

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FYI, I found this file relating to Loctite Threadlocking fluids.  It may be helpful.  There is a product selection tree that will help direct the buyer to the correct choice.

The file is 1.12Mb so I can't attach it here.
Cheers

 

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Thanks everyone. So I assume no one has tried the solvent solution?

dmk,

One of my calipers came off after the bolts backed out and sheared. This was AFTER the Kodiak recall and repair. They put it off originally to a bad batch of thread lock (Loctite). I now have indexing marks on the bolts and calipers so that I can visually check they have not started backing out. I check them frequently and the bolts all have red Loctite. 

Edited by SuiteSuccess

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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14 hours ago, Payroll Person said:

Maybe convert to items you can safety wire?

Or use the stock bolts with castle nuts, drilling a small hole through the bolts for a cotter pin.

Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F-53 Chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/brake system

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This is an interesting topic to me.  I just had MORryde suspension and Kodiac brakes installed on our coach.  My understanding is that these calipers are basically standard GM front calipers from 80s vintage vehicles (the same also as my 94 Ram truck).  They would have two lubricated shoulder-bolts going through the caliper into the bracket holding them in place.

I have put 100s of thousands of miles on these types of brakes and never once in many years of abuse have I had a caliper bolt come loose or need to have any sort of Loctite (much less permanent red) on the threads.

What is the dynamic that is causing this?

Av8r3400
Thunderstruck - 2012 Volvo VNL 730 D13 iShift
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51 minutes ago, Av8r3400 said:

My understanding is that these calipers are basically standard GM front calipers from 80s vintage vehicles.

I have put 100s of thousands of miles on these types of brakes and never once in many years of abuse have I had a caliper bolt come loose or need to have any sort of Loctite (much less permanent red) on the threads.

What is the dynamic that is causing this?

Kodiak brakes use the calipers from the 1985 and up GM front wheel drive C-Body (Cadillac DeVille, Buick Electra/Park Avenue, and Oldsmobile Ninety-Eight) and H-Body (Buick LeSabre, Oldsmobile Delta 88, and Pontiac Bonneville) cars.

I don't know what causes this phenomenon, but while I had no problems after the initial install, I did lose a caliper bolt after having new pads installed.

Phil

 

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2 hours ago, Phil D said:

Kodiak brakes use the calipers from the 1985 and up GM front wheel drive C-Body (Cadillac DeVille, Buick Electra/Park Avenue, and Oldsmobile Ninety-Eight) and H-Body (Buick LeSabre, Oldsmobile Delta 88, and Pontiac Bonneville) cars.

I don't know what causes this phenomenon, but while I had no problems after the initial install, I did lose a caliper bolt after having new pads installed.

I had a previous thread on my incident.  My bolts actually backed out and sheared.  Why?  No one has answered that question that I know.  Since putting the red Loctite and indexing lines on my bolts I can visually check any backing out and have seen none in 1 1/2 years.  I check the index lines at the start of any major trip.  Just might be a PITA to get them loose.

I’ll ask again.  Anyone used liquid solvent to dissolve the Loctite rather than heat?

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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