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Ford V10 Exhaust Manifold Studs

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  My Ford V10 only has around 70K miles, NO Exhaust leaks whatsoever so far, or tell tale ticking exhaust leak sounds, or carbon or soot or burning evidencing any manifold/gasket leaks, HOWEVER, I just discovered the bottom rear stud on both manifolds is broke off grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr I've seen and read about that happening to others also. This week I'm going to repair those two broke studs n nuts and try that alone so long as I don't discover evidence of any leaks, but if that's NOT the case, I will pull the manifolds, machine/plane them flat smooth if necessary, new gaskets nuts n studs EASY PEASEY   NOTTTTTTTTTT.

  Wish me luck, any others had broken exhaust studs/nuts on Ford V10's ???????????

  John T  Still a Happy Camper despite mechanical issues now n then, sorta goes with the territory over my 50 years of RV ownership ..

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1 hour ago, oldjohnt said:

but if that's NOT the case, I will pull the manifolds,

I had a Banks exhaust system put on ours to improve performance about 1 month after I purchased it as ours was one of the earlier V-10 engines but was always glad that I did so. I sold it with 80K+ miles and never had any issues.

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3 minutes ago, Kirk W said:

I had a Banks exhaust system put on ours to improve performance

  Kirk, did that include new Banks manifold/headers as well as other improvements or did it use the stock manifold ????

  I'm of the opinion in a motorhome versus say a truck (different air flow patterns) when you pull a mountain and the manifold heats up and then it cools down rapidly (IE sudden temp change) as you quickly descend, that may contribute to broken manifold studs ????????? Last fall we left Death Valley and encountered a long hot hard pull towing our Honda as we headed West to Lone Pine then we descended rapidly, maybe that's when those bottom rear studs broke ?? I dont know ??

 Keep cool I hear its hot down your way

 John T

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I was thinking that it did, but as I look at the same year models power bundle from Banks, it does not so I may be wrong about that. I do know that reviews at the time reported a lower engine operating temperature by 20° under normal loads and by 40°+ when under heavy load on a long, steep climb. That may be the reason that it helped resolve the manifold problems, but that was too long ago for reliable memory.

What year is yours? I know that Ford added improved headers in the last years it was built.

Edited by Kirk W
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12 hours ago, Kirk W said:

What year is yours? I know that Ford added improved headers in the last years it was built.

Mines an 06 (big husky manifold but not headers) not sure when any changes were made?? I hadn't noticed it before but after reading about other V10 owners who had broken studs and exh manifold gasket leaks I took a closer look at mine and only then discovered the two breaks, although again no leaks or noises or evidence of such. I will post an update later

 As always nice chatting with you

 John T

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     Well that will be a fun project to do. Yes I have done that myself before on a 30 year old truck I had once. I ground the worst of the crookedness out of the manifolds with a 4” grinder. Then taped 100 grit sand paper onto plate glass, and sanded the rest of the problem out until it was flat. Crude but effective.

   No if you start talking about said job.  Just say bad word in place of swearing.

   No skinned knuckles aloud either.

  If the stud is broken off flat with the head, that makes it more interesting. More skinned knuckles. Remember bad word only. No swearing aloud. 




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Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, travelinbob said:

I do not understand why you would even embrace the issue if you had "no exhaust leaks whatsoever".

Good question Bob, thanks for asking..  The reasons I chose to embrace the issue even though there are no leaks NOW,  are:

1) Its been my experience (50 year RV owner) once an exhaust manifold nut/stud breaks off the chances are improved that EVENTUALLY there will be a leak which can damage the manifold. (It may need machined/planed down smooth and even to cure the burned out portion or possibly develop a crack ??? HUGE EXPENSE )

2) ITS JUST ME I don't like taking off across the country and develop an exhaust leak far from home where it may be impossible or expensive to repair PLUS ruin my trip grrrrrrrrrrrrr    Sure it may be fine for a while with a single broken manifold stud/nut but I love and maintain my RV and prefer to make repairs AT HOME  

 Again, good question and those are the reasons I CHOSE to address this particular issue while still at home versus on the road even if there's a chance it might never leak ???  I just don't like to take the risk BUT to each their own, some may choose not to worry about it WHICH MAY BE FINE IT MAY NEVER LEAK ??????????  Heck I don't like to leave home even if a screw or cabinet latch is loose I (an old engineer) am just wired that way and cursed I guess lol

 Best wishes, take care Bob.

Late PS. a professional mechanic just told me and I also recall this long before, with Aluminum heads and Cast Iron Manifolds having different rates of expansion, when they get real hot then cool down rapidly that can contribute to breaking the studs grrrrrrrrrrrrr Wish there was a better design !!!!!!!!!! Oh well its nothing work and  money cant fix grrrrrrrrrrrr  

LATER PS   Geeeeeee now I read it was a common problem on Ford V10 and there was even a recall !!! Also read the new and improved studs are a different material and that helps cure the problem   WHAT TO BELIEVE LOL ???

 John T   Am I the ONLY one who would have chosen the same ??? would others not worry about a single broken stud/nut if its not leaking NOW ?? I'm still okay regardless lol



Edited by oldjohnt
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Your chances of getting the studs out without removing the manifolds are slim to none. On my 4.6 Triton V8 that had the same design and same studs instead of trying to remove the remaining nuts and breaking them off I used a right angle die grinder with a arbor so I could use 3" cutoff wheels and cut one side of the nuts off, you have to be careful not to damage the threads, then a impact driver with a 6 point socket to get them off. The remaining studs didn't want to come out so I reused them. The broken studs that were below the head I drilled a 1/8 pilot hole being very careful not to get into the water jacket and then used a left hand twist bit and got one to come out but the other one I drilled and taped because it would come out. The Ford style metal gasket works great when it's all new and flat but not so great after many heat cycles so I used the same style of Fel-Pro gasket I've used for years, it's way more forgiving. Yours will look different but same material.




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