Jackalopee University

[Overthinker]

7 hours ago, Moresmoke said:

You can Y from the diagnostic plug without an issue, so long as you keep the added length to the Canbus wires fairly short. Typically, there is a Canbus terminator located near the diagnostic port. The terminator is a couple of resistors that have the job of preventing echo on the bus. If you end up with a branch circuit in the Canbus that is too long, it can induce reflectance (echo) and cause communication problems.

Also to note on the red wire of the brake controller, it serves two purposes. As noted above, it provides a signal to the brake controller for when you activate the brakes. It also provides power back to the brake light circuit when the slide bar on the brake controller is activated. It is important to have the red wire connected in the right place, or you may end up applying the trailer brakes manually, and not having any brake lights.

So is the right place for the red wire when using a DirecLink where Henry has it in the picture?  I feel confident he's correct but just curious.

[Moresmoke]

48 minutes ago, Overthinker said:

So is the right place for the red wire when using a DirecLink where Henry has it in the picture?  I feel confident he's correct but just curious.

The way Henry shows it connected will power the trailer brake lights when the slide bar is activated. The way my Volvo functions with relays in the trailer circuit, the original truck brake lights will not come on with the slide bar. As mine is, both my bed and the trailer are powered from the truck’s trailer circuits so it works out.

Other makes may function differently.

[phoenix2013]

Moresmoke provides valuable information about this "connection" which has a dual purpose. The "classic" way to connect the red wire going back to the pickup installations is to tap it into the brake light switch which is right there at the top of the brakes pedal on most pickups. Why tap into that circuit? First reason, as I explained, the controller needs to know that you are braking. Second reason, if you are using the manual brake actuator (bar, lever, etc.) the controller does not need "prodding" from the brake light you are manually prodding it, but if you are not touching the brake pedal (manual trailer brakes only), the controller needs to activate the brake lights on the trailer to let the folks know that you are braking (with the trailer only). The brake lights don't give a rat's behind where the power comes from (truck, trailer, or both), they should light up. 

My suggestion to connect to the brake lights circuit in the Jackalopee is driven by the fact (personal experience) that getting to the brake switch in the semi (air actuated, under the dash) is a bitch of an exercise of tearing panel apart and putting them together. But as Moresmoke says it might not work wired the way I suggest on certain trucks. So what's my answer to that, try it, because "one test is worth a thousand opinions". If it doesn't work, do it the hard way.

[phoenix2013]

Next instalment in the Jackalopee University course.

You might have been puzzled why this was purchased with the assortment of wires, crimps, breakers, etc.

On account of this inside the unit if you mount the Jackalopee in a funky spot.

Which if persistent can damage the circuit board.

 

The unit has gaskets all around and rubber boots to seal the cables and wires going in and out. So what's the culprit (discovered by a relentless owner). It's the cheap-ass RV cable. RV industry operates on the premise, it must be cheap to be used, other requirements are secondary. The 7-wire cable is not molded it's sheathed.

As a result there are air gaps between outer jacket and the wires and between the wires.

So if you mount a Jackalopee with these cables going down to it, the morning dew will turn into droplets inside the cable and migrate into the units, drop by drop by drop. The unit shown above was sitting upright on the deck and accumulated enough water to submerge the portion of the board carrying the 12VDC between the batteries.

So, mount the Jackalopee so that the cables go up to it and here's a precautionary fix. Drive silicone into the end of the cables terminating in the Jackalopee, between the jacket and the wires and in between the wires.

Finished task

Doing the same on the plug and socket end, wouldn't hurt it either.

[rickeieio]

Yes, mounting so that the wires drape down from the Jackalopee is the ticket.  Reasonable weather protection while still enjoying the troubleshooting abilities that you so thoughtfully provided.

 

[phoenix2013]

Good morning gentlemen.

Got some photos this morning of the recent installation of an ET Senior and a Jackalopee.

Incidentally when I was still "trucking" on the old trusty Ketchup, my Jackalopee was installed on the front ET panel

Now, my question for you old timers is what kind of truck you see in the first picture, here's a hint

 

[Darryl&Rita]

2 hours ago, phoenix2013 said:

kind of truck you see in the first picture

I'll start with the body style; cab-over.

[phoenix2013]

27 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:

I'll start with the body style; cab-over.

You guys are sharp

[Darryl&Rita]

I had a feeling that it was a K100, but wasn't going to stick my neck out that far until I had some other feedback.

[phoenix2013]

On 6/13/2022 at 5:53 PM, phoenix2013 said:

Had a thought, need a confirmation of the thought process. Above is the picture of the prewired unit ready to go into the truck (DirecLink not included, the customer had one). The optional wiring kit available with the Jackalopee contains the following items.

 

This connects the truck to the trailer and having functioning lights on the trailer. It does not contain any parts needed to wire the brake controller or the battery charging circuit. Although many people deal with it, it's in the manual, substantial number folks call, " how do I do it", "where do I get parts", etc., etc. The fact that you are going to need more parts (blue, black and red wire, crimp lugs, circuit breakers, etc.) is a given.

The thought banging in my head says that these should be included in the kit to make it complete? The assembly above went out with 15 feet of wire of each color (12 gauge blue, 12 gauge black, 16 gauge red). Is it too much, not enough to do typical wiring of a brake controller and charging, assuming the Jackalopee will be mounted on the back of the cab. The other question, does the idea of adding those parts to the kit have merits?

[SuiteSuccess]

Henry,

I think “everything included” has definite merit. I hate to purchase something and then have to search for “accessories “ that optimize its use. Case in point. I just purchased a dashcam with GPS capabilities. Now I have to buy an accessory hardware kit to enable certain functions. Have to buy an sd card for data storage. Just throw it all in, charge more and let me get on with it. 

[Darryl&Rita]

We're not in the market, but if I were, and less wiring inclined, I'd probably pay extra for a 20' piece of 12/3 SOW cord. Pin it out to your choice of colour/pin location, update the instructions to reflect the Bk, W, G wires in the SOW. This length would easily get into the cab and terminate to the brake controller/fuse tap. The SOW should be nearly bulletproof in this usage, but SJTW meant to say SOOW would be cheaper and smaller/easier to run through the firewall. Of course, pricing would need to be adjusted to reflect the different option boxes.

ETA: Changed designator on cord type. SJTW is a plastic type outer jacket that may encounter issues in a flexing situation, going into the firewall. SOOW is a rubber type, thinner (substantially) than SOW, but should survive in this application.

Edited July 23, 2022 by Darryl&Rita