rickeieio Posted May 25, 2022 Report Share Posted May 25, 2022 All two washers would accomplish is to move the damaged portion of the line away from the oring. If you trimmed that away, you have no need to introduce more parts and fiddly bits to drop. When the fitting is leaking, try moving the line a bit to see if it stops. If so, adjust the line to provide slack so it will rest in that position. Quote KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverEasy Posted May 25, 2022 Report Share Posted May 25, 2022 Some good points by others. I really feel that the tube is not going into the o-ring and that is why you have varying results in seal. I would use silicone grease for lube but specifically, no petroleum products (softens plastic). Still think measuring the depth w/o collet and o-ring is a start. Might even leave the collet off, insert the o-ring and then insert the tube. When you pull it out, the o-ring better be up on the tube. Another thing. Replacing the whole pass-through would be my last choice. Take a close look at the black connector with the green hose. Are there six sides for a socket at the bottom? Still think it is removable. Available on Amazon. Ok, still no joy? Make your own pass-through hole. I would try to insure it is a straight pass through from the firewall side to the inside, meaning no channels in the pass-through feeding some unknow port. Take the firewall side off. Drill a hole through big enough for the tube to pass through. Push either side through to the other side and couple with a straight thru connector. If the existing tube is not long enough to reach the other side, use a new, short piece. Put straight thru connectors on both sides. Quote Chet & Deb '01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart '19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel 2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed Retired CWO4, USN and federal service Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darryl&Rita Posted May 25, 2022 Report Share Posted May 25, 2022 In the vein of Chet's repair, I've drilled out one of the passthrough ports and used a bulkhead union to replace it. Looks factory, until you look closer. Quote I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication 2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet 2007 32.5' Fleetwood QuantumPlease e-mail us here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parrformance Posted May 25, 2022 Report Share Posted May 25, 2022 I replaced the entire pass through, fixed several leaks. Was not a difficult job on the Volvo. Quote 2006 Volvo VNL 780, " Arvey" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift 2003 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 2010 Forest River Coachman Freedom Express 280RLS Jackalopee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimster Posted May 26, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2022 Update: No change. Pulled the hose and the collet. Pushed the hose all the way seated, marked it. Reassembled and sure enough, it's going all the way in. Still leaks. This connection is molded into the pass through. I guess the only option is to figure out if it's a pass through and drill-baby-drill, creating my own connection. That will have to wait until after the next trip...which is 2+ months. Thanks for all the help and ideas folks. Mucho appreciated. Quote Robert & Lisa '14 Keystone Fuzion 315 38' 5er 2015 Volvo VNL 670, D13, iShift 'The Tartis' (ours) 2013 Smart Fortwo Passion 'K-9' 2011 CanAm Spyder RT Limited (Ours) We are both USAF vets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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