Air leak on line from compressor

[Rotorhead]

Hello All,

I have a currently small leak from a line coming off of the compressor. Does anyone know what the name of that fitting is? I had it off before to see if the line would reseat but didn’t see how it came apart like most of the other ones where you push in on the ring and pull the hose out.

I also suppose it’s possible to change to a different fitting.

Thanks,

Chuck

[jkoenig24]

Just a guess here but I expect there would be a FERRULE (tapered copper ring) that slips over that blue (or is it green) tube and mates with a compression nut inside said fitting. If there was a ferrule and it got lost / misplaced  / broken, you'll need to get a replacement ferrule. The other possibility I can think of is that said colored tube is metal and has been flared to form a compression fitting (when properly assembled and tightened). Before reassembly, make sure all "mating surfaces" are clean and dry.

[Rotorhead]

2 minutes ago, jkoenig24 said:

Just a guess here but I expect there would be a FERRULE (tapered copper ring) that slips over that blue (or is it green) tube and mates with a compression nut inside said fitting. If there was a ferrule and it got lost / misplaced  / broken, you'll need to get a replacement ferrule. The other possibility I can think of is that said colored tube is metal and has been flared to form a compression fitting (when properly assembled and tightened). Before reassembly, make sure all "mating surfaces" are clean and dry.

Thanks. I don't know why I didn't think of that. It is a plastic tube. I may even have some of the ferrule in my spare parts still. I have to replace the suspension on my CRV before I get to the air line. Prioritizing those never ending projects.

[rpsinc]

If using a ferrule make sure to also use a sleeve for the inside of the tube.  Without the sleeve, it is more likely to have a leak since the sleeve provides some rigidity for the tube to be able to seal, since the tube, being plastic, will compress upon tightening.

[Rotorhead]

1 minute ago, rpsinc said:

If using a ferrule make sure to also use a sleeve for the inside of the tube.  Without the sleeve, it is more likely to have a leak since the sleeve provides some rigidity for the tube to be able to seal, since the tube, being plastic, will compress upon tightening.

Ok thanks. A small brass tube correct?

[Darryl&Rita]

The fitting in your pic is a simple "Push-to-connect" fitting. There's no ferrules inside. It looks like the tubing is bordering on being too short, causing side pressure on the tube/fitting connection. I'd either replace the tubing (preferable), or replace the fitting with a 90*. Don't forget the tubing absorbs water from the air, and becomes stiffer with time.

As far as compression fittings go, make sure you're using DOT fittings, not Home Depot generic fittings, and use a ferrule sleeve.

[geodog]

 I will second what Darryl said. The line is too short to seat correctly in the compressor fitting. Either replace the entire line or splice in a short piece of air line. It looks to me as it is the unloader line to the dryer.

 

ShortyO

[Rotorhead]

1 hour ago, Darryl&Rita said:

The fitting in your pic is a simple "Push-to-connect" fitting. There's no ferrules inside. It looks like the tubing is bordering on being too short, causing side pressure on the tube/fitting connection. I'd either replace the tubing (preferable), or replace the fitting with a 90*. Don't forget the tubing absorbs water from the air, and becomes stiffer with time.

As far as compression fittings go, make sure you're using DOT fittings, not Home Depot generic fittings, and use a ferrule sleeve.

Thank you Darryl. I will certainly use you suggestion on the 90*. I will also make sure to get the DOT fittings and tubing.

Chuck

[Rotorhead]

15 minutes ago, geodog said:

 I will second what Darryl said. The line is too short to seat correctly in the compressor fitting. Either replace the entire line or splice in a short piece of air line. It looks to me as it is the unloader line to the dryer.

 

ShortyO

I do believe it does in fact run down to the dryer. I will go ahead and get some new line and fittings. I need to replace the dryer as well but that will have to wait until I get the clutch replaced next month.

Chuck

[rpsinc]

Good idea to carry some replacement o-rings for those push fittings.  They are simple to replace and often time as well as a new o-ring, it is good to cut the tubing off square to get a new area of the tubing for the fitting to seal on.  It is important to also consider the comment about the strain on that tubing.  That will cause a leak based on the vibration from driving.  I like the idea to use a coupling and add some additional length to that tube or replace the entire length.  Sometimes replacing the entire length isnt practical or needed.

[Rotorhead]

2 hours ago, rpsinc said:

Good idea to carry some replacement o-rings for those push fittings.  They are simple to replace and often time as well as a new o-ring, it is good to cut the tubing off square to get a new area of the tubing for the fitting to seal on.  It is important to also consider the comment about the strain on that tubing.  That will cause a leak based on the vibration from driving.  I like the idea to use a coupling and add some additional length to that tube or replace the entire length.  Sometimes replacing the entire length isnt practical or needed.

Thanks. Once I get a day free I will get in there and see exactly what’s going on. 
then the next leak will start. Haha

[rpsinc]

1 hour ago, Rotorhead said:

then the next leak will start

Yep, that is the way is goes pretty often

[Rotorhead]

4 hours ago, rpsinc said:

Yep, that is the way is goes pretty often

Haha. Keeps us busy. 

[rickeieio]

Cutting the line square isn't really important, as long as it's reasonably close.  I think the official recommendation is less then 15 degrees from square is okay. The oring doesn't seal against the end, but rather against the o.d. of the line.  In time, the line develops a "memory" and gets a groove in it.  Trim that part away.  Of course, as suggested above, that line is already likely too short, so the suggestion of a 90 degree fitting is spot on.

In general, if the fitting has the brass collar, like yours, then it has a replaceable oring.  Get some spares to keep in your air line repair kit.  Part numbers are to be found in the Resource Guide.

[Rotorhead]

36 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

Cutting the line square isn't really important, as long as it's reasonably close.  I think the official recommendation is less then 15 degrees from square is okay. The oring doesn't seal against the end, but rather against the o.d. of the line.  In time, the line develops a "memory" and gets a groove in it.  Trim that part away.  Of course, as suggested above, that line is already likely too short, so the suggestion of a 90 degree fitting is spot on.

In general, if the fitting has the brass collar, like yours, then it has a replaceable oring.  Get some spares to keep in your air line repair kit.  Part numbers are to be found in the Resource Guide.

Awesome thanks rickeieio. Will do on the repairs and spares.