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Can a worn out clutch make noises


Rotorhead
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Hello All,

I am trying to isolate my final noises. My new cab mounts eliminated most of the noise. After having read some posts about noises and clutches I tried a few things as I was driving. One, I tried lifting the clutch pedal with my foot, no change in noise. Two, I pressed to the bottom of the free play and no change. Three, I pressed the clutch until it disengaged and the noise went away. So to me it could be possible that the clutch, worn down to about 35-40% remaining, could be the culprit. Thoughts??

I still need to look at the dampener on the front of the engine. Other than obvious damage or cracks I don't know how to tell if that is bad.

Thanks,

Chuck

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12 minutes ago, Rotorhead said:

Hello All,

I am trying to isolate my final noises. My new cab mounts eliminated most of the noise. After having read some posts about noises and clutches I tried a few things as I was driving. One, I tried lifting the clutch pedal with my foot, no change in noise. Two, I pressed to the bottom of the free play and no change. Three, I pressed the clutch until it disengaged and the noise went away. So to me it could be possible that the clutch, worn down to about 35-40% remaining, could be the culprit. Thoughts??

I still need to look at the dampener on the front of the engine. Other than obvious damage or cracks I don't know how to tell if that is bad.

Thanks,

Chuck

Based on your specific symptoms, the transmission input shaft bearing is the source of your noise. Jay

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16 minutes ago, Jaydrvr said:

Based on your specific symptoms, the transmission input shaft bearing is the source of your noise. Jay

As in the backside of the transmission where the driveshaft is? Or the transmission to engine side?

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5 minutes ago, Rotorhead said:

As in the backside of the transmission where the driveshaft is? Or the transmission to engine side?

When the clutch is engaged while the transmission is out of gear, the input shaft is spinning at the same speed as the engine. When you disengage the clutch, that shaft stops spinning. The input shaft is the shaft going from the clutch into the front of the transmission. Jay

Edited by Jaydrvr
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9 minutes ago, Jaydrvr said:

When the clutch is engaged while the transmission is out of gear, the input shaft is spinning at the same speed as the engine. When you disengage the clutch, that shaft stops spinning. The input shaft is the shaft going from the clutch into the front of the transmission. Jay

Thanks Jay.

I have been saving up for a new clutch. I guess I will get it in this summer and get it taken care of. I am sure they will let me know what they find. I hope it hasn't been too worn out for too long and requires a new transmission. OUCH.

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33 minutes ago, Rotorhead said:

Thanks Jay.

I have been saving up for a new clutch. I guess I will get it in this summer and get it taken care of. I am sure they will let me know what they find. I hope it hasn't been too worn out for too long and requires a new transmission. OUCH.

At least you'll only have to pay one labor charge if you work on the transmission while changing the clutch... With the expense of pulling out the transmission, it makes sense to do whatever work it needs while it's out, rather than just a bandaid repair. Likely, the rest of the transmission is not in much better shape than the offending part. It's not that big a deal to replace all the bearings. Jay

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1 hour ago, Jaydrvr said:

At least you'll only have to pay one labor charge if you work on the transmission while changing the clutch... With the expense of pulling out the transmission, it makes sense to do whatever work it needs while it's out, rather than just a bandaid repair. Likely, the rest of the transmission is not in much better shape than the offending part. It's not that big a deal to replace all the bearings. Jay

I wish I had a shop. I would love to do the work myself. But I don't plus I would have to buy a lot of tools and things to pull the transmission out. And do a lot of reading and watching videos.

When I get around to dropping it off I will have them assess the transmission and do that bearing like you said. 

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A little history.

After buying the truck the clutch was intermittently hanging up. Took it in and the grease line was disconnected from the throw out bearing (previously posted). The shop took it off for me. There is another grease point on it but you have to reach in the inspection window. After it was removed I have greased it a couple times with a couple squirts as everyone stated. The clutch was getting pretty sticky again so I got to thinking. How long had the grease line been disconnected? Not know that and having seen how much grease was plopped in there I think it had been a LONG time and the bearing is probably dry. So I decided to pump in a bunch. I did 4 shots and worked the clutch. Then I did 5 more and worked the clutch. After that I was wiggling the parts below the TOB. There is a pivot type lever (probably clutch cable goes to to move the TOB right?). Where that pivot point is looked like the seal was out from where it should be. I took some lithium grease to spray in the crack just to see. It sounded like I was spraying into a can. So I am now assuming that the grease/bearings for that pivot point are non-existent.

GOOD NEWS THOUGH. It was a lot quieter when I drove it. So that is certainly some of the noise I am trying to eliminate.

The pivot I am talking about is in the picture in the lower left below the silver bolt head. Throw-out bearing is just above that.

Just wanted to share that information. Won't be too long before I take it in for the new clutch and transmission input bearing (and who know what else in there, haha) Just needing to save up a little more.

Happy and Safe Traveling to All.

TOB.jpg

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51 minutes ago, Rotorhead said:

A little history.

After buying the truck the clutch was intermittently hanging up. Took it in and the grease line was disconnected from the throw out bearing (previously posted). The shop took it off for me. There is another grease point on it but you have to reach in the inspection window. After it was removed I have greased it a couple times with a couple squirts as everyone stated. The clutch was getting pretty sticky again so I got to thinking. How long had the grease line been disconnected? Not know that and having seen how much grease was plopped in there I think it had been a LONG time and the bearing is probably dry. So I decided to pump in a bunch. I did 4 shots and worked the clutch. Then I did 5 more and worked the clutch. After that I was wiggling the parts below the TOB. There is a pivot type lever (probably clutch cable goes to to move the TOB right?). Where that pivot point is looked like the seal was out from where it should be. I took some lithium grease to spray in the crack just to see. It sounded like I was spraying into a can. So I am now assuming that the grease/bearings for that pivot point are non-existent.

GOOD NEWS THOUGH. It was a lot quieter when I drove it. So that is certainly some of the noise I am trying to eliminate.

The pivot I am talking about is in the picture in the lower left below the silver bolt head. Throw-out bearing is just above that.

Just wanted to share that information. Won't be too long before I take it in for the new clutch and transmission input bearing (and who know what else in there, haha) Just needing to save up a little more.

Happy and Safe Traveling to All.

TOB.jpg

Sounds like you have a good handle on things. Hope it all goes well. Jay

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49 minutes ago, Rotorhead said:

I don't know about that. Chasing noises and learning. You guys have all helped tremendously.

The first thing to learn: try the cheapest, easiest things first. Don't plan an engine tear down, when all you missed was a dirty air filter. Most of the time, logic will guide you correctly, but occasionally the collective wisdom here will be willing to help.

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26 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:

The first thing to learn: try the cheapest, easiest things first. Don't plan an engine tear down, when all you missed was a dirty air filter. Most of the time, logic will guide you correctly, but occasionally the collective wisdom here will be willing to help.

Roger that, thanks.

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