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When i had my toy hauler I used a brass water regulator for city water connection, i used it with my 1999 class A also, but my new class A has a different fill valve, its a box and I believe its called quick fill, it has a hand on it to switch from fresh water tank to city water, do i need a regulator on it when on city water?

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You still have plumbing that will be endangered if you put excessive pressure on it. The plumbing is no different just the method of filling the water tank. The same regulator should work fine. 

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I agree with using a regulator but some newer rv’s have pex  lines just like in a lot of residential homes. I don’t think it’s wrong to not use it. It’s good for checking the pressure to see if your better off running off the pump. 

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And place the regulator at the faucet - not on the RV end of the hose.

I once checked into Fort Bliss RV park and discovered water pressure was over 180psi.  I had neglected to hook up the regulator (I think I left in Brady) and, you guessed it, I sprung a leak - PEX pike by the way.  The hose also had a leak in it.

Here at my S&B I have city water at 120psi.  House and RV both have regulators.

Lenp

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PEX is rated 160 PSI at room temperature, and I'm sure the fittings should be that also.  The bigger issue is the plumbing fixtures.  Also, if you use any type of water filter ahead of the RV, they are rated sometimes at 60 PSI, and a water hose is probably not any better, so that's why the regulator should always be the first thing connected at the hose faucet.

https://plasticpipe.org/BuildingConstruction/BuildingConstruction/PEX.aspx

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11 hours ago, Danfreda1 said:

I agree with using a regulator but some newer rv’s have pex  lines just like in a lot of residential homes.

One of the key words here is "some." In addition as pointed out above, even though PEX is being used a lot the fixtures have not been changed nor has the pressure testing standards of the RV industry. Just because an RV passed the standard 100# pressure test does not mean that it will hold 100# or more for days at a time since the test is only that it will hold 100# of air pressure for 15 minutes. 

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9 hours ago, 57becky said:

 60 PSI, and a water hose is probably not any better, so that's why the regulator should always be the first thing connected at the hose faucet.

 

I generally agree.  However, about fifteen years ago I bought a 30' water hose from the RV Filter Store with stainless fittings which is rated at 200 psi so that I could mount my pressure regulator and filters in a box in the RV basement.  Hose wasn't cheap, but it's the only one I've had to buy and will probably outlive me.

They no longer offer stainless fittings, but still offer the superior quality hose with brass fittings and rated at 200 psi.

 

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2 hours ago, durangodon said:

I generally agree.  However, about fifteen years ago I bought a 30' water hose from the RV Filter Store with stainless fittings which is rated at 200 psi so that I could mount my pressure regulator and filters in a box in the RV basement.  Hose wasn't cheap, but it's the only one I've had to buy and will probably outlive me.

They no longer offer stainless fittings, but still offer the superior quality hose with brass fittings and rated at 200 psi.

 

My Flexzilla hoses are rated for 150 PSI, and I still install my regulator at the faucet since there's no way knowing when a hose might be damaged in a way that would weaken it. And the excellent cold weather flexibility of the hoses is worth the lower pressure rating.

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When I sprung the leak at Fort Bliss it was not the PEX that leaked - it was one of the fittings (an elbow) in the PEX.  Was not a big leak, just a drip, drip enough to get the compartment wet.

Lenp

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