New Water Softener Salty Water....

[aztex]

Hi,

I spend a LOT of time in the southwest and here outside of Yuma has diamond hard water. A test strip reveals over 500 mg/L 500ppm which is very hard. Unpalatable AND will significantly lower the life of water heater and perhaps plumbing. The ground around the outside faucets are white with mineral deposits. It's ridiculous!

 

So I bought a 16,000 grain On The Go water softener and after probably 50 gallons of rinsing via a 10 minute flush out side then shower and dishes etc... but it still tastes more salty than soft. I've drank soft water before and never had it be salty. I know the way it works is sodium replaces calcium and magnesium so the harder the water the more sodium in the water NOT salt....

 

Any clues before I contact the manufacturer tomorrow? Is this normal and typical?  I'd like to be able to drink it on occasion and not have to revert to bottled water again. I use a Berkey which says soft water will shorten the life of its filters by half but I can live with that... IF it doesn't taste like salt water!

 

Thanks!

[D&J]

First are you sure that it's hooked up properly? Even with running it through a softener and a filter we will not drink Yuma water straight from faucet, Yuma water is notoriously salty and it just tastes bad. We use a RO system for drinking and cooking. Check it with a test strip on the cold water side not the hot because it takes a long time to get the water changed out in the water heater. Water softeners will not remove salt, and taste from the water.

Denny

[Darryl&Rita]

I'd agree with Denny. Sample before the softener with some test strips, or a refractometer. Yuma has seriously bad water.

[aztex]

1 hour ago, D&J said:

First are you sure that it's hooked up properly? Even with running it through a softener and a filter we will not drink Yuma water straight from faucet, Yuma water is notoriously salty and it just tastes bad. We use a RO system for drinking and cooking. Check it with a test strip on the cold water side not the hot because it takes a long time to get the water changed out in the water heater. Water softeners will not remove salt, and taste from the water.

Denny

I think so....

I have a sediment and charcoal filter going into the unit and of course it's only able to be hooked up one way.

Test strip on cold water side shows almost zero hard water in the 0-40 ppm range max. Non softened in the 500-1000 range....test strip turns red!

Taste isn't so bad aside from the salinity. I understand the harder the water the more sodium will be in the soft water due to the ion exchange. But I've tasted soft water before and it's not as salty as this....

[lappir]

10 hours ago, aztex said:

Hi,

I spend a LOT of time in the southwest and here outside of Yuma has diamond hard water. A test strip reveals over 500 mg/L 500ppm which is very hard. Unpalatable AND will significantly lower the life of water heater and perhaps plumbing. The ground around the outside faucets are white with mineral deposits. It's ridiculous!

 

So I bought a 16,000 grain On The Go water softener and after probably 50 gallons of rinsing via a 10 minute flush out side then shower and dishes etc... but it still tastes more salty than soft. I've drank soft water before and never had it be salty. I know the way it works is sodium replaces calcium and magnesium so the harder the water the more sodium in the water NOT salt....

 

Any clues before I contact the manufacturer tomorrow? Is this normal and typical?  I'd like to be able to drink it on occasion and not have to revert to bottled water again. I use a Berkey which says soft water will shorten the life of its filters by half but I can live with that... IF it doesn't taste like salt water!

 

Thanks!

I don't drink "Softened Water".  Use it for cooking, cleaning and all that other stuff, but have a 5 and 3 gallon water dispenser for my coffee, and other drink preparation and also for my pets. I use the refill stations found in some grocery stores. 

 

Rod

[Wrknrvr]

  I have the larger size on the go water softener. The same as the smaller one, just twice the capacity.

  The instructions on our says after you put the salt in the unit to run water so the water column is the size of a pencil free falling out of the unit.

   Then to run it several minutes full flow. I have tasted it after the pencil size flow has ended. It was possibly a tad bit of salt taste. But after the full flow time I have never tasted salt.

 

  Maybe re read the directions.

  Hope this helps, vern

[jbh]

A 20-minute rinse is specified for my Watts softener; after a bit of salty taste I've been using 30 minutes for several years.

[hatrack]

Below are the instructions from On The Go.  Copied straight from the instruction.

Step 5: Add the correct amount of salt into the top for your softener.
- One full 26 oz. box of iodized or non-iodized salt for the Standard model.
- Two full 26 oz. boxes of iodized or non-iodized salt for the Double Standard Model.
- Four full 26 oz. boxes of iodized or non-iodized salt for the Park Model Water Softener.
A few Ways to add Salt
- Pour salt into the softener.
- Mix salt with warm water and pour the solution into the softener.
- Pour salt into the softener while periodically pouring water slowly over it with a cup.

In extremely hard conditions, also use 1-2 teaspoons of Super Iron Out for the Standard Model, 2-
- Rinse for 24-30 minutes for the Double Standard Model.
- Rinse for 50-60 minutes for the Park Model Water Softener.
Step 7: Increase water flow to a full stream.
- Rinse for 3-4 minutes for the Standard Model.
- Rinse for 6-8 minutes for the Double Standard Model.
- Rinse for 10-12 minutes for the Park Model Water Softener.
Step 8: To verify the regeneration process is complete use the hardness test strips to insure the water at the
OUTPUT of the softener is soft. Soft water is 0-3 GPG. At the end of the regeneration process the water
should also not have a salty taste.
Step 9: Regeneration cycle is complete.
DO NOT DUMP THE RESIN OUT OF THE TANK!

www.portablewatersoftener.com

 

[aztex]

1 hour ago, hatrack said:

Below are the instructions from On The Go.  Copied straight from the instruction.

Step 5: Add the correct amount of salt into the top for your softener.
- One full 26 oz. box of iodized or non-iodized salt for the Standard model.
- Two full 26 oz. boxes of iodized or non-iodized salt for the Double Standard Model.
- Four full 26 oz. boxes of iodized or non-iodized salt for the Park Model Water Softener.
A few Ways to add Salt
- Pour salt into the softener.
- Mix salt with warm water and pour the solution into the softener.
- Pour salt into the softener while periodically pouring water slowly over it with a cup.

In extremely hard conditions, also use 1-2 teaspoons of Super Iron Out for the Standard Model, 2-
- Rinse for 24-30 minutes for the Double Standard Model.
- Rinse for 50-60 minutes for the Park Model Water Softener.
Step 7: Increase water flow to a full stream.
- Rinse for 3-4 minutes for the Standard Model.
- Rinse for 6-8 minutes for the Double Standard Model.
- Rinse for 10-12 minutes for the Park Model Water Softener.
Step 8: To verify the regeneration process is complete use the hardness test strips to insure the water at the
OUTPUT of the softener is soft. Soft water is 0-3 GPG. At the end of the regeneration process the water
should also not have a salty taste.
Step 9: Regeneration cycle is complete.
DO NOT DUMP THE RESIN OUT OF THE TANK!

www.portablewatersoftener.com

 

Thanks,

 

But that's the regeneration process. The brand new  ones do not require salt and the resin is already charged. In fact they have NO SALT in the factory and add none to the new ones.

 

I spoke with them this morning and the issues could be a couple of things. One is from 1.5 years in the southwest my plumbing is coated with mineral deposits that will take some time to clear out. Another is the over all quality of the "city water" here. Even filtered and Mg/Ca stripped out can still leave actual salt. Since it's desert well water that's not surprising.

I'm only here for a couple more weeks so will work around it and see what a better water source does. Plus some time.

BTW RV'ers next to me are from SW too and their water heater is already breaking down due to hard water. I don't think it's 2 years old and they already went through one sacrificial rod in it! Yikes! I've read of other RV's plumbing going south quickly too with this extreme hard water.

[Kirk W]

12 hours ago, aztex said:

I don't think it's 2 years old and they already went through one sacrificial rod in it!

Most recommend replacing the anode annually. I drain ours and use a flushing tool to remove calcium buildup followed by sanitizing the entire potable water system each spring. Just part of the annual maintenance process.

Edited December 18, 2021 by Kirk W
add a thought

[TXiceman]

After the proper and complete rinse, what you may taste is some sodium....not salt or sodium chloride.  The amount of sodium left in the softener will not be sufficient to harm anyone unless you are on a NO SODIUM diet.

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Softened water is considered safe to drink in the majority of cases. ... But the softener salt is only used to soften the resin that acts on the water – no salt gets into the water supply itself. In softened water, the sodium level increases. Sodium is not the same as salt (sodium chloride).

[aztex]

17 minutes ago, Kirk W said:

Most recommend replacing the anode annually. I drain ours and use a flushing tool to remove calcium buildup followed by sanitizing the entire potable water system each spring. Just part of the annual maintenance process.

Thanks Kirk!

I've neglected the water heater!

How does a flushing tool work? Is it an actual tool or way to hook up/back flush?

 

Time to drag out the manual!

 

 

[aztex]

16 minutes ago, TXiceman said:

After the proper and complete rinse, what you may taste is some sodium....not salt or sodium chloride.  The amount of sodium left in the softener will not be sufficient to harm anyone unless you are on a NO SODIUM diet.

About featured snippets•

 

Feedback

 

 

People also ask

How does the water softener system work?

 

 

Is it OK to drink water from a water softener?

 

 

Softened water is considered safe to drink in the majority of cases. ... But the softener salt is only used to soften the resin that acts on the water – no salt gets into the water supply itself. In softened water, the sodium level increases. Sodium is not the same as salt (sodium chloride).

MY mom had soft water in her house forever so I know the taste it has....I don't mind it but this is different so far.

 

I chatted with another resident there and they said the park's water is very salty. So perhaps an oddity in that the Mg/Ca is stripped off but obviously not the NaCl and just adding more sodium doesn't help things!

 

Thanks!

[JimK]

The water softener you bought works by ion exchange.  The resin in the softener is initially saturated with sodium ions.  Magnesium, calcium and other mineral ions are removed and replaced by the sodium; hence, the salty taste of the treated water.

There really is not a good alternative solution for a convenient and cost effective system.  The next step would be a way more costly approach such as reverse osmosis.

EDIT:  I just noticed there is a detailed discussion of water softeners in the Full Timers forum.

Edited December 18, 2021 by JimK

[Kirk W]

31 minutes ago, aztex said:

How does a flushing tool work? Is it an actual tool or way to hook up/back flush?

The flushing tool is a tube that goes on the end of your white water hose to put through the drain hole in the water heater tank and you can flush out a great deal of white mineral deposits. It is bent so that you can spray it upward and not just flush water through it. 

                             

For sanitizing instructions, just visit this link and it will give directions.

 

[aztex]

1 minute ago, JimK said:

The water softener you bought works by ion exchange.  The resin in the softener is initially saturated with sodium ions.  Magnesium, calcium and other mineral ions are removed and replaced by the sodium; hence, the salty taste of the treated water.

There really is not a good alternative solution for a convenient and cost effective system.  The next step would be a way more costly approach such as reverse osmosis.

RO can't keep up with demands other than drinking water can it? RO usually relies upon a reservoir and fills in the back ground.

 

I'm considering a small sink mount RO unit just for drinking.

 

Thanks!

[aztex]

Just now, Kirk W said:

The flushing tool is a tube that goes on the end of your white water hose to put through the drain hole in the water heater tank and you can flush out a great deal of white mineral deposits. It is bent so that you can spray it upward and not just flush water through it. 

                             

For sanitizing instructions, just visit this link and it will give directions.

 

Cool!

 

Thanks!

 

I read elsewhere that guys will use a vinegar flush of the system. I haven't read the details yet.

[JimK]

I hate to say it but the simplest solution would be to continue with ion exchange to protect your fixtures and Hw tank from scale build up and then buy bottled water just for drinking.

The wand will not remove scale from the Hw system.  At least not enough to make a difference.  Scale build up requires adding 100% vinegar to the Hw tank and allowing it to soak at least overnight.  Even that will be only partially successful.  Frequent use of vinegar is not recommended as it can cause pitting and deterioration of the tank.

[Kirk W]

35 minutes ago, JimK said:

Scale build up requires adding 100% vinegar to the Hw tank and allowing it to soak at least overnight. 

Flushing your water heater

[D&J]

3 hours ago, aztex said:

RO can't keep up with demands other than drinking water can it? RO usually relies upon a reservoir and fills in the back ground.

 

I'm considering a small sink mount RO unit just for drinking.

 

Thanks!

If the incoming water is high in salt the softener will not remove it, I don't know of anyone that drinks Yuma water from the tap.

After you use a water softener for awhile the scale buildup in the water heater tank will come lose and and clean out of the system if you remove the drain plug and open up the high pressure relief valve the water will rush out and take most of the lime with it.

We only use our RO system for drinking and cooking, we have a separate faucet at the kitchen sink.

There are 3 things we would without in our water system 1. sediment filter before the softener 2. water softener 3. RO system. 

When we are away from Yuma our water out of the tap has no salt taste to it.

Denny

[aztex]

58 minutes ago, D&J said:

If the incoming water is high in salt the softener will not remove it, I don't know of anyone that drinks Yuma water from the tap.

After you use a water softener for awhile the scale buildup in the water heater tank will come lose and and clean out of the system if you remove the drain plug and open up the high pressure relief valve the water will rush out and take most of the lime with it.

We only use our RO system for drinking and cooking, we have a separate faucet at the kitchen sink.

There are 3 things we would without in our water system 1. sediment filter before the softener 2. water softener 3. RO system. 

When we are away from Yuma our water out of the tap has no salt taste to it.

Denny

Drained the WH as above and water came out crystal clear!

Drain had a slight leak and pressure relief had some mineral build up but nothing alarming. Cleaned and teflon taped it.

It's funny as I check it every month or two for critters and never noticed any build ups... could be from this spot and just a 3 week build up!

I'm in Tacna and have stayed in Yuma numerous times. Yuma water is no where near as hard as here. My sediment, charcoal and Berkey make it just fine in Yuma but here the water is simply beyond! You should see the ground with mineral deposits all over!

 

Thanks!