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Manual Priming Volvo D13


Jim & Wilma

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We just started losing our fuel prime on our Volvo D13 after sitting for a day or so. Up until now, it could sit for weeks with no problem. Starts after using the manual prime pump. 
Question . . . for those of you that have used the manual prime, is the manual pump supposed to “leak” fuel when operated?

Edited by Jim & Wilma

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Jim & Wilma

2006 Travel Supreme 36RLQSO

2009 Volvo VNL730, D13, I-shift, ET, Herrin Hauler bed, "Ruby"

2017 Smart

Class of 2017

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Packing on pump plunger still shouldn't leak. Packing is bad, or shaft is scored. Time is ticking on it.

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication
2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet
2007 32.5' Fleetwood Quantum


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Appreciate the responses.  Here's more details of what I'm seeing.

Priming pump is part of the fuel filter housing on this and several Volvo engines I've seen.  You depress plunger knob and rotate a quarter turn counterclockwise to release plunger.  After after several pumps, it gets hard to continue depressing.  While pumping, fuel appears to rise from the adjacent "vent".

If its not suppose to leak fuel while pumping, which I wouldn't think so, I'll definitely replace it and possibly it'll also resolve losing the prime.  If leaking is expected, then I'll probably take it to a shop that can run the clear tubing bubble tests.

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IMG_3217a.jpg.c718bc170600aa5ce52e515511d83cb7.jpg

Jim & Wilma

2006 Travel Supreme 36RLQSO

2009 Volvo VNL730, D13, I-shift, ET, Herrin Hauler bed, "Ruby"

2017 Smart

Class of 2017

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Hey Jim,

I was chasing the same issues in my IH a year or so ago.  I was sure it was a fuel problem.  I put a topic/question on this forum and someone asked about my batteries.  I dismissed it, thinking that it seemed to be fuel related.  It progressively became more difficult starting the truck and I also had the same observations as you had about the priming sequence and fuel appearing as I tirelessly primed the filter and fuel system.

As it continued to give me trouble, I went back to review some of the answers.  So then I started charging the batteries to eliminate this as a possibility.  Well, even after a nice long charging period, same result.  I then tried the 50A fast charge, and voila, it started right up.

Well, I then had the batteries load tested and discovered a bad battery and the others were all following.  Changed the batteries, and never had a problem after that.  The explanation I was given was that those engines need certain RPMs to start and if off, even a little, they struggle or wont start.

Hope this helps, at least for some info.  BTW-my batteries were quality but 7YO.

 

Also, you told me about an issue that I should check on my new to me 730, and to replace the part before it became a problem, which you said you didnt do.  What was that?  I have the truck here and although its 13YO, it only has >85K miles, so disuse can be a contributor to some parts.  I am also considering singling long but not sure all the factors that will be affected by doing that.

Marcel

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1 hour ago, rpsinc said:

 The explanation I was given was that those engines need certain RPMs to start and if off, even a little, they struggle or wont start. 

 

Also, you told me about an issue that I should check on my new to me 730, and to replace the part before it became a problem, which you said you didnt do.

Marcel,

More info . . . The engine usually does fire up for a second and then sputters. The batteries are under 2 years old.  If I continue cranking for 5+ seconds, it fires up and runs well. I’m pretty sure it’s a fuel issue.

Look at your radiator tanks for any cracking and material integrity. The top tank inlet tube of our radiator sheared off at the tank. It puts you on the shoulder pretty quickly! We could easily scratch the plastic tank material with your fingernail. 

IMG_3217a.jpg.c718bc170600aa5ce52e515511d83cb7.jpg

Jim & Wilma

2006 Travel Supreme 36RLQSO

2009 Volvo VNL730, D13, I-shift, ET, Herrin Hauler bed, "Ruby"

2017 Smart

Class of 2017

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Perfect.  Thanks for the input and yes, yours sounds like a fuel issue.  I also had something like that going on with my Duramax after a filter change.  Discovered o-ring was damaged in 1 small area(this after a $600 tow) and it was sucking air so it was doing exactly what you described.  I changed the o-ring, primed it well and not a problem since(months ago).

Marcel

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