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Grease hose for throw out/release bearing disconnected


Rotorhead
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Hello All,

I was going to see if I could adjust my clutch a little and grease the release bearing. However when I took the inspection cover off I found the grease line disconnected and hanging there. It is the one that runs up high on the outside and then drops down through the bell housing.

Anyway I wanted to do this because a couple times now I’ve had an issue where it won’t go back into gear unless you turn it off. The most recent event the clutch was feeling very abnormal like it was getting hung up and it wasn’t doing anything really.

I am wondering if that disconnected grease line got jammed in the moving parts? 
Here’s how it went. It was fine and the rolling from a stop all of a sudden it was very jerky and the clutch not working. Pulled off road and worked clutch. It feel tight. Shut it off to get it in gear and then started and rolled off. 
then it shifted but not well. Did that until I got close to work. Stopped at a light and it was all of a sudden fine.

the loose line came free?

Anyway I could not fine where it is supposed to screw in to the bearing housing. So I will have to take it to the shop.

I also saw a loose ring in the gap between the brake and the bearing. Is that a bad sign?

What’s the damage to put a new clutch on?

Chuck

thanks!

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6 minutes ago, Rotorhead said:

Hello All,

I was going to see if I could adjust my clutch a little and grease the release bearing. However when I took the inspection cover off I found the grease line disconnected and hanging there. It is the one that runs up high on the outside and then drops down through the bell housing.

Anyway I wanted to do this because a couple times now I’ve had an issue where it won’t go back into gear unless you turn it off. The most recent event the clutch was feeling very abnormal like it was getting hung up and it wasn’t doing anything really.

I am wondering if that disconnected grease line got jammed in the moving parts? 
Here’s how it went. It was fine and the rolling from a stop all of a sudden it was very jerky and the clutch not working. Pulled off road and worked clutch. It feel tight. Shut it off to get it in gear and then started and rolled off. 
then it shifted but not well. Did that until I got close to work. Stopped at a light and it was all of a sudden fine.

the loose line came free?

Anyway I could not fine where it is supposed to screw in to the bearing housing. So I will have to take it to the shop.

I also saw a loose ring in the gap between the brake and the bearing. Is that a bad sign?

What’s the damage to put a new clutch on?

Chuck

thanks!

What truck was that again? I can be $1000 - $3000, depending on the model. Jay

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8 minutes ago, Rotorhead said:

It’s a 2010 Volvo 780 with a Cummins ISX 400ST. I still need to see what the transmission model etc is. It is a 9 speed though.

Chuck

On my older Volvo it's almost 3k, but the newer ones are supposed to be a lot easier and less hours. Jay

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Hopefully they can reconnect the grease line and just adjust it. It is shifting pretty good. A few clunks and rattles here and there. But hey I am getting the timing and rpms down. 
But if it’s shot so be it. Having it all dialed in will be good.

thanks Jay.

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The grease hose goes into the bottom of the throw out bearing directly in the center. I have seen them fall out before usually  they just dangle there but i am assuming momentarily it was trapped between the release bearing and the face of the transmission not allowing full disengagement of the clutch which is why would not shift properly. You may have noticed the pedal felt a little weird.  The ring between the release bearing and the face of the transmission is the clutch brake. When you fully depress the clutch it squeezed between the trans and release bearing stopping the motion of the input shaft of the transmission allowing it to go into gear without grinding. Adjustment of the clutch itself and the linkage is critical to correct clutch operation

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Hopefully you know not to depress the clutch all the way with the vehicle moving, and why.  When I was a pup, I was always told to push the clutch ALL THE WAY DOWN.  But, back then we had no vehicles with clutch brakes.  Old habits can be hard to break.

Don't over grease the bearing.  This a case where too much is a bad thing.  A little dab will do ya.

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Thanks TD1. I watched some videos and it looked pretty straight forward to adjust it. Except I didn’t see the 5/8” quick adjustment bolt. Maybe I didn’t bump the starter enough. I did see two round headed boltsthat looked like a special torq bit went in. 
I can look again for the grease line connection point this weekend. 

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4 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

Hopefully you know not to depress the clutch all the way with the vehicle moving, and why.  When I was a pup, I was always told to push the clutch ALL THE WAY DOWN.  But, back then we had no vehicles with clutch brakes.  Old habits can be hard to break.

Don't over grease the bearing.  This a case where too much is a bad thing.  A little dab will do ya.

Hi rickeieio. Roger that. I only press all the way in on start and when I stop. 

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Hello All,

I looked for a place to reattach the grease line for over an hour. The hose is not flexible at all. Either the location is on top where I can’t get to or maybe the previous owner had a greaseless bearing installed, if there is such a beast. I turned the 90 degree fitting away from the clutch put it back together and took it for a drive.  
It shifts just fine. If the shop can’t find where it goes I may just cut that thing off. 
there were gobs of grease all over in there. A real mess. I did clean it up as best as I could. 
I added pictures of what I saw. 
 

676A7BED-8BDC-4391-B03E-49D3A6D96454.jpeg

2A2722EC-0388-4339-B030-83302315E501.jpeg

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I  have never seen one go anywhere but on the bottom but who knows if you look at the release fork you can see that when its depressed it rotates right over the top of the release bearing. Many of the trucks in the last 10 years have auto adjust clutches. The adjustment procedure is different then the adjustable ones. Many times the release bearing is way over greased causing a huge mess in the bellhousing. The 90 degree fitting on the hose indicates the grease set up is different than the normal as usually its just a straight in the bottom of the bearing and out the bottom cover

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well I’m at the dealer. They said the grease line gets connected to the top of the throw out bearing. They also said there is no way that it could come undone by itself. They said what probably happened was the last people to do the clutch just left it off. 
nice huh? 
they are going to take it off for now. There is about 30-40% remaining on the clutch is it should last me a while. Then I can get it done the right way.

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48 minutes ago, Rotorhead said:

Well I’m at the dealer. They said the grease line gets connected to the top of the throw out bearing. They also said there is no way that it could come undone by itself. They said what probably happened was the last people to do the clutch just left it off. 
nice huh? 
they are going to take it off for now. There is about 30-40% remaining on the clutch is it should last me a while. Then I can get it done the right way.

The clutch will last a long time, but what about the throw out bearing? I would think if it hasn't been greased, it's already screaming pretty badly. When it lets go, you're pretty much grounded. Been there, done that. Good luck! Jay

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1 hour ago, Darryl&Rita said:

You should be able to replace the 90* fitting with a straight fitting, and a 90* adapter. Then you can get grease in there. 

PS: You want grease in the throw-out bearing.

Ya, do that manual greasing as part of maintenance items.  A good grease should work for a while.  Recommend hi-temp grease in that thing.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you all. They did say there is another grease fitting way on top I may be able to reach. They were going to try and put a squirt in there, but I'm not sure if they actually did. I will be getting back in there after a while to see what I can get done. Clutch was estimated to have 30-40% remaining.

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