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Good diesel shop in Tennessee


GlennWest
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I really need to get on in frame on my truck. Power is fine but just too much bypass. Gets oil on camper, ramps. Makes a mess. I would like to fine a good local mechanic that won't hurt pocketbook too badly. Had some picked out close to Livingston but know of no one here. We are staying in Clarksville. Will be here for at least 2 months. Maybe little more.

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Called a mechanic I know in Huntington TX. He said 12-14k for an inframe. The interesting part of our discussion was parts availability. He stated one he doing now had to get aftermarket parts and a piece here and a piece there. Can't even get detroit parts now. The lockdown has really hurt. Think I will get a jug and put steel wool inside and put it over downdraft tube till I get back that way. Trying to keep it off of Teton. Considering building back as a 12.7. Block the same. Was going to talk to him about it. Know it should increase mpg. 

Edited by GlennWest
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On 6/29/2021 at 3:34 PM, GlennWest said:

Thanks. Believe I came right by them coming in. Will give them a call. update. They don't do in frames.

I just had them do an overhead adjustment on our Detroit 14L but we were not blowing oil out.  Are you sure it needs an inframe? 

 

Have you contacted a Freightliner dealer to see if they would do it? 

Maybe also try Fitzgerald Truck Service

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Really it shouldn't but it really blowing oil. I moved it yesterday. Young person having a difficult time backing in so I moved to get him more room.  Just sitting there waiting for air pressure it left an oil patch on grass. it had been just making a smutty patch. This was wet. Just on their site and all that is mentioned is gliders. You sure they do drive in units.

Edited by GlennWest
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52 minutes ago, GlennWest said:

Really it shouldn't but it really blowing oil. I moved it yesterday. Young person having a difficult time backing in so I moved to get him more room.  Just sitting there waiting for air pressure it left an oil patch on grass. it had been just making a smutty patch. This was wet. Just on their site and all that is mentioned is gliders. You sure they do drive in units.

Check with them and ask. Considering the whole point of their business is to rebuild pre-emissions engines and install them in brand new gliders, I would think they would be very experienced at engine building and would have strong after service support. Jay

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I would really like it to become a 12.7. The software concerns me though if it is possible. Being it is an ultrashift might prevent it. They likely know. I will check with them. Like the nation wide service for warranty. If I go with an independent shop, have to return to him if problem. I get 6-7mpg now.

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6 hours ago, Jaydrvr said:

Check with them and ask. Considering the whole point of their business is to rebuild pre-emissions engines and install them in brand new gliders, I would think they would be very experienced at engine building and would have strong after service support. Jay

We toured their facilities at the ECR 9-10 years ago.  They had Detroit’s, Cummins and a few Cats sitting around for installation in their gliders.  Their favorite was rebuilding Detroits so I’m sure if it can be done they could do it. Let me say those motors they had rebuilt were impressive and looked absolutely brand new.

Glenn, I didn’t know they rebuilt on the side, I thought only for their gliders, but that is where I’d go.  Maybe they will just take a trade in of your old and some cash to get what you want.  I do know we asked about automatic tranies on the tour and at that time they were only mating to manuals.

Edited by SuiteSuccess
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I am fairly sure mine ddec V. I know it has to be compatible with the ultrashift computer. Don't see why they would not work as long as injectors are compatible with ddec V.  Looking at used motors, not saying going this route, They do make 12.7 ddec V. It should be a direct swap. 

Edited by GlennWest
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I would carefully review any shop that you choose.     The rebuild kits used vary in quality, Federal Mogul and Mahle are the best PAI the worst.     Regarding the place that built up gliders, they have a spotty reputation for warranty claims and coverage.    Also their DDEC programs seem to over fuel at idle and possibly smoke excessively.    There are good/bad stories about all vendors, the one above included.     Time period and relevance to your situation are key indicators of due diligence.     

 

Regarding used engine/rebuild in an RV were the vehicle sits and mileage is low per month a 3/300K warranty may only be worth a fraction of its value in a practical terms.      You are paying the protect against issues you may never see due to time/mileage.      There are a lot of issues with rebuilds at 60~200K miles.    How many years would it take just to break in a new engine?     Break in periods of 15~50K miles.

 

Steve  

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29 minutes ago, Steve from SoCal said:

I would carefully review any shop that you choose.     The rebuild kits used vary in quality, Federal Mogul and Mahle are the best PAI the worst.     Regarding the place that built up gliders, they have a spotty reputation for warranty claims and coverage.    Also their DDEC programs seem to over fuel at idle and possibly smoke excessively.    There are good/bad stories about all vendors, the one above included.     Time period and relevance to your situation are key indicators of due diligence.     

 

Regarding used engine/rebuild in an RV were the vehicle sits and mileage is low per month a 3/300K warranty may only be worth a fraction of its value in a practical terms.      You are paying the protect against issues you may never see due to time/mileage.      There are a lot of issues with rebuilds at 60~200K miles.    How many years would it take just to break in a new engine?     Break in periods of 15~50K miles.

 

Steve  

Steve you make a lot of sense. I have only put 15k on mine since I bought it. May put more on after retirement. The guy I know in Huntington TX used to work with detroit and knows these engines. Has a great reputation. quoted me 12-14k. 14k will be a block sleeve seat repair. Stated that is rare though. He was surprised I only have 780k and this much blow by. But he is serious about parts availability. Hopefully that will remedy itself by the time I get back to Texas. He only wants Detroit parts. Mahle pistons is what I ran in my race cars. FM bearings also. Know they made top of the line back then on gas. Question, if I had air pump problem and it going in motor , would I not have slow building air? It went from some blowing smut to blowing oil very quickly. I figured a ring broke. Power is good and cranks good.

Edited by GlennWest
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57 minutes ago, GlennWest said:

Steve do you think a used engine might be a better way to go. You are correct it would take me years to break it in. I am finding some ddec5 engines 550k miles for 7k.

Honestly Glenn,

 

If your mechanic in Texas is someone you trust, let him do a compression and leak test.    You may just need a cylinder pack.     Especially as a low mile user a fix like that could last the entire time you use your rig.     We all want to have the peace of mind that everything will last a long time.    The uncertainty in life means we can only hope and guess.

Even a brand new factory engine is no guarantee, a low or mid mile used engine with good oil numbers and compression is about as reliable a stab in the dark gets.     On the Truckers Report you read about folks with rebuild that blow heads, drop liners, overheat, smoke etc.     You were into racing, remember expect the unexpected.      Have someone you trust give you their suggestion.     Now bull gears on Detroit's are another issue, maybe fix the bad cylinder and do a front drive refresh.

 

Steve    

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16 minutes ago, Steve from SoCal said:

Honestly Glenn,

 

If your mechanic in Texas is someone you trust, let him do a compression and leak test.    You may just need a cylinder pack.     Especially as a low mile user a fix like that could last the entire time you use your rig.     We all want to have the peace of mind that everything will last a long time.    The uncertainty in life means we can only hope and guess.

Even a brand new factory engine is no guarantee, a low or mid mile used engine with good oil numbers and compression is about as reliable a stab in the dark gets.     On the Truckers Report you read about folks with rebuild that blow heads, drop liners, overheat, smoke etc.     You were into racing, remember expect the unexpected.      Have someone you trust give you their suggestion.     Now bull gears on Detroit's are another issue, maybe fix the bad cylinder and do a front drive refresh.

 

Steve    

Actually the later 12.7 used the bullgear of the 14L. It is smaller and gives less trouble. I think most of the horror stories on inframes are when deck sleeve holes need machining and they skip over it. Mechanic I know does this if needed. I do believe the egr did my motor in. They are bad for a diesel. Do believe I will hand a jug under downdraft tube and go to mechanic I know and trust

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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11 minutes ago, usbusin said:

Would not a shop where Glenn is currently located be able to do a compression and leak test?  At least you would know what the problem may be.  You don't have to commit to the shop that does the test.

Actually the injectors have to come out for a compression test. Not a simple job. It starts like a new truck. It does not act like a compression problem. But it is pushing oil out of downdraft tube. enough that it gets on our Teton.

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9 minutes ago, Steve from SoCal said:

For what its worth, I have a coffee can with some steel wool on my vent pipe.     1.3 million miles, uses a quart every 10K.     It runs great otherwise.     My lil Cat is an early Acert which is a Miller cycle but no EGR.     I salute you folks with emission systems, I am not that brave.

 

Steve

Mine is just egr but that is bad enough. Mine uses more than yours. I started to buy a C15. Factory singled. Sorta wished I had. It was a Kenworth and likely a better truck. The accert engine rason didn't.

 

Edited by GlennWest
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