Jump to content

Jackalopee Plug


NTHEWIND

Recommended Posts

26 minutes ago, phoenix2013 said:

why five and how would you wire these?

Ooo, ooo, ooo! Red, black, and white seem self-explanatory. I'd use the orange to bring +12v to the Jackalopee, from the fuse panel, and the green to replace the blue.

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication
2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet
2007 32.5' Fleetwood Quantum


Please e-mail us here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

57 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:

Ooo, ooo, ooo! Red, black, and white seem self-explanatory. I'd use the orange to bring +12v to the Jackalopee, from the fuse panel, and the green to replace the blue.

Yes, so orange and black combined on the SWITCHED terminal, orange all the way to the truck battery across a 40A fuse. Black to controller black.

Red from controller combined on the BRAKE LIGHTS terminal with red from truck plug.

Green spliced to blue from the brake controller

Another color option, don't know what standard they are using

jSGTLm7l.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking at what all has been talked about so far, I’m looking at mounting the Jackalopee in the side compartment on my 780.  I have the wiring from the truck to the Jackalopee done and starting on the wiring from the direct link controller to the Jackalopee. Sitting and thinking on the connections shown from phoenix2013 showing the split connector on the inputs to the Jackalopee made some wheels start turning in places they hadn’t turned in a while.  Why couldn’t I take the direct link controller and mount it in the same place as the Jackalopee then I could just tap into the signals needed for it on the 4 wire Dephi connector.  I tested the serial cable from the controller to the adapter box and it’s just a straight thru cable, so I went back to my pile of computer cables and got a rs232 extension cable and tested all the wires were the same places, then I needed an RJ11 telephone extension cable to run from the controller to the small brake controller mounted on the dash. This should get all the controller wiring in as short as possible configuration and tucked out of the way and easy to work on in the future if needed.  I will try to get some pics this week.     

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Or, just run the blue hose to the blue gladhand, and the red hose to the red gladhand..   ROFL

Seriously, since I have a BluDot system, I'm considering mounting the Jackalopee behind my trailer pinbox, with a short pigtail to plug into the original truck outlet, and then plug the trailer into the other side.  That way, ANY commercial road tractor could safely move our trailer.  Added benefit is that I'm only fiddling with the more robust commercial style plug.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, MoneyMakeranch said:

Looking at what all has been talked about so far, I’m looking at mounting the Jackalopee in the side compartment on my 780.  I have the wiring from the truck to the Jackalopee done and starting on the wiring from the direct link controller to the Jackalopee. Sitting and thinking on the connections shown from phoenix2013 showing the split connector on the inputs to the Jackalopee made some wheels start turning in places they hadn’t turned in a while.  Why couldn’t I take the direct link controller and mount it in the same place as the Jackalopee then I could just tap into the signals needed for it on the 4 wire Dephi connector.  I tested the serial cable from the controller to the adapter box and it’s just a straight thru cable, so I went back to my pile of computer cables and got a rs232 extension cable and tested all the wires were the same places, then I needed an RJ11 telephone extension cable to run from the controller to the small brake controller mounted on the dash. This should get all the controller wiring in as short as possible configuration and tucked out of the way and easy to work on in the future if needed.  I will try to get some pics this week.     

MoneyMakeranch, one fly in the ointment. The key to the to DirecLink operation is the OBD harness.

fkKQEkNl.jpg

It connects from the diagnostic port socket (and the truck computer) to the DirecLink power module. In the sample unit I got it was around 7 feet, it might be close trying to reach the side compartment in a 780, depending how you run it.. But most of that 7 foot length was in the coiled section, which is cable with two DB9 connectors at either end, I would think it could be made longer.

A compartment install

tA0iRNMl.jpg

although initially a little bit more work saves work in other areas and opens "other opportunities" like the one you are thinking about.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, rickeieio said:

Or, just run the blue hose to the blue gladhand, and the red hose to the red gladhand..   ROFL

Seriously, since I have a BluDot system, I'm considering mounting the Jackalopee behind my trailer pinbox, with a short pigtail to plug into the original truck outlet, and then plug the trailer into the other side.  That way, ANY commercial road tractor could safely move our trailer.  Added benefit is that I'm only fiddling with the more robust commercial style plug.

That would work for lights. You don't care about blue wire (who needs a stinkn' blue wire when you have BluDot), but batter charging would go away.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, phoenix2013 said:

Another color option, don't know what standard they are using

jSGTLm7l.jpg

Be careful with Tray cable, not enough strands for automotive use. (IMHO).

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication
2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet
2007 32.5' Fleetwood Quantum


Please e-mail us here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, phoenix2013 said:

That would work for lights. You don't care about blue wire (who needs a stinkn' blue wire when you have BluDot), but batter charging would go away.

Oops.  Forgot about that aspect.  Dang, I thought I had a brilliant idea, and it was just a gas pain.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just posted a RV 7 way plug mystery issue I'm fixing...

Anyways... when you are cleaning connections ever wonder why did the RV world engineered it's industry plug with flat blades? Booooo!!

On a Big Truck with  "commercial" round pins you pick up that nifty tool with the rotating wire brushes and clean the pins...

"Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/7/2021 at 9:22 PM, rickeieio said:

Oops.  Forgot about that aspect.  Dang, I thought I had a brilliant idea, and it was just a gas pain.

rick it is said the electrons scurry down the surface of wires, so many strands are beneficial to prevent voltage loss on low pressure systems... 

Here ends the extent of my knowledge...

"Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, noteven said:

rick it is said the electrons scurry down the surface of wires, so many strands are beneficial to prevent voltage loss on low pressure systems... 

Here ends the extent of my knowledge...

Skin effect is a factor in AC current, DC no.    That said, supper fine stranded wire is much better for any high vibration environment like a vehicle.

 

 

2005 Peterbilt 387-112 Baby Cat 9 speed U-shift

1996/2016 remod Teton Royal Atlanta

1996 Kentucky 48 single drop stacker garage project

 catdiesellogo.jpg.e96e571c41096ef39b447f78b9c2027c.jpg Pulls like a train, sounds like a plane....faster than a Cheetah sniffin cocaine.   

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, Steve from SoCal said:

Skin effect is a factor in AC current, DC no.    That said, supper fine stranded wire is much better for any high vibration environment like a vehicle.

 

 

Thanks for learnin' me somethin' today Steve.

"Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

RVers Online University

mywaggle.com

campgroundviews.com

RV Destinations

Find out more or sign up for Escapees RV'ers Bootcamp.

Advertise your product or service here.

The Rvers- Now Streaming

RVTravel.com Logo



×
×
  • Create New...