Propane wont run fridge

[slackercruster]

12V and 110V work good, but not propane. I think gas will light, but wont keep fridge cold. (At least it used to light.)

Here are some photos. The sliver sheet metal plate had some soot on it. It was around the white part with the soot on it.

Talked to local RV dealer. He said he wont work on it, he only works on trailers. (This is a truck camper.) He told me to drive about 120 miles to get some work done on it.

I cleaned the soot off the white part. Some of the wire looks melted, but is still attached. Fridge is from 2011.

Thanks

 

 

Edited May 3, 2021 by slackercruster

[slackercruster]

Here is the photo with soot...

[Ray,IN]

I assume you have removed the metal cover that insulates the burner???? If it is missing the burner will not function properly, plus it is a fire hazard.

 

You need a new flame sensor/igniter by the looks of the pictures. Remove that old one, take it to any RV parts supply store and buy a new one.

Clean  up the LP burner and chamber before installing the new sensor/igniter. You may download the service manual for your refrigerator from bryantrv.com

Edited May 3, 2021 by Ray,IN

[Kirk W]

I am wondering what make & model your refrigerator is, as I don't recall ever having seen one quite like the pictures. After digging on the internet, I think you have a Norcold? If I am looking at this accurately, the tube with a nut at the bottom of the picture is the propane line to the burner?  The white would be the ceramic insulator for the spark probe, and the black wire with a spade connector would be the wire for sensing the heat from the burning propane, if I am looking at things correctly. I do not see how that probe mounts into the burner area, as I try to compare it to burners that I am familiar with. 

 

If you look closely at this picture, there is no signs of flame having bee outside of the round burner area where the screw is located, which to me makes it seem that your refrigerator is burning outside of the burner for some reason. If that is the case it is a serious fire hazard and I doubt that replacing the probe will resolve that issue. It may be that your burner is at least partially blocked from the exhaust gas going upward in the way that it should. Has your burner flue been cleaned recently? I do agree that you need to replace the ignition probe, but if the propane is burning outside of the burner area the problem will come back, unless you have a fire before that happens. I would apply a good shop vacuum to the burner area while you have to probe removed to see if you can suck anything out of it. You could also use compressed air to blow through the flue but you need to be sure that it is clear before you use the refrigerator on propane again.

Edited May 3, 2021 by Kirk W

[oldjohnt]

I think I would remove the metal shield to gain access to the burner to clean and inspect it (they can get clogged). Then for no more then they cost Id at least consider purchase (versus just cleaning, but if alls well sure use it ) a new ignitor tip and flame sensor (or however the assembly comes for your unit). For gas operation typically there's no 120 VAC present, any eyebrow or other Gas/Elec switches set correctly, the gas valve opens and the ignitor tip starts firing a spark and if she lights and the flame sensor circuitry senses flame it remains lit, otherwise the gas valve closes. Looks like at the minimum the ignitor and flame sensor (and any other dirty sooty or clogged components) needs inspected, cleaned up and replaced if necessary.

Note the accumulation of soot could mean there's a problem with the burner itself (clogged up) and/or chimney and venting (maybe all clogged up, or dirt or foreign material or wasps etc) which makes getting into the burner and chimney area above it absolutely necessary......   I have even seen so much soot the ignitor tip area is shorted out so the flame cant ignite. Theres a chance cleaning up the burner and/or ignitor tip and flame sensor may cure the problem with no purchases necessary ?????????? I once helped a friend do that very same thing when his fridge wouldn't work on electric.......

Let us know what you find

John T

[slackercruster]

On 5/2/2021 at 8:06 PM, Ray,IN said:

I assume you have removed the metal cover that insulates the burner???? If it is missing the burner will not function properly, plus it is a fire hazard.

 

You need a new flame sensor/igniter by the looks of the pictures. Remove that old one, take it to any RV parts supply store and buy a new one.

Clean  up the LP burner and chamber before installing the new sensor/igniter. You may download the service manual for your refrigerator from bryantrv.com

 

OK, thanks. Didn't know the sheet metal it was a must. I thought it may have been the problem and caused overheating. 

Edited May 9, 2021 by slackercruster

[slackercruster]

On 5/3/2021 at 2:04 PM, oldjohnt said:

I think I would remove the metal shield to gain access to the burner to clean and inspect it (they can get clogged). Then for no more then they cost Id at least consider purchase (versus just cleaning, but if alls well sure use it ) a new ignitor tip and flame sensor (or however the assembly comes for your unit). For gas operation typically there's no 120 VAC present, any eyebrow or other Gas/Elec switches set correctly, the gas valve opens and the ignitor tip starts firing a spark and if she lights and the flame sensor circuitry senses flame it remains lit, otherwise the gas valve closes. Looks like at the minimum the ignitor and flame sensor (and any other dirty sooty or clogged components) needs inspected, cleaned up and replaced if necessary.

Note the accumulation of soot could mean there's a problem with the burner itself (clogged up) and/or chimney and venting (maybe all clogged up, or dirt or foreign material or wasps etc) which makes getting into the burner and chimney area above it absolutely necessary......   I have even seen so much soot the ignitor tip area is shorted out so the flame cant ignite. Theres a chance cleaning up the burner and/or ignitor tip and flame sensor may cure the problem with no purchases necessary ?????????? I once helped a friend do that very same thing when his fridge wouldn't work on electric.......

Let us know what you find

John T

 

I tried to dissemble but the hex head attachment on the left of the photo won't budge.  

[slackercruster]

I don't know Kirk. I will have to look to see the maker. It is on a Truck Camper.

The local RV service stinks. He is very fussy what work he undertakes. I think the dealer is pissed at the world. His lot has 5 - 6 travel trailers and that is it. He used to have the whole lot full before the virus hit. He stopped selling Class C and A about 12 years ago and just sells trailers / 5th Wheels. But he said hasn't been able to get any trailers in 8 - 9 months.  He is in a bad mood. I will have to search out some other dealers. But maybe the stinky dealer can order some parts for me.

[slackercruster]

I looked up the maker Kirk. It is a Dometic. Still trying to find the model. On the plastic cover that comes off to access the fridge parts there is a label but it is all worn and don't know if it is the model number. 

[Kirk W]

I am wondering if you don't have a Dometic, RM2193?

[slackercruster]

Thanks for the info Kirk, it may help decipher the worn out label # on the plastic cover.  It looks like it, but mine may be a little bigger.

I was able to unplug the burned out wires that were shown in the photos I posted, so learned about removing them. Is it common that the wires overheat? I will try the vacuum you recommended in the chimney. I had bugs in there at one time and put a screen on it to keep them out. The screen worked as far as I can tell.

Edited May 21, 2021 by slackercruster

[Kirk W]

It isn't common to have anything burned like that but to me it looks more like the propane was burning outside of the flue, which can happen if the flue is plugged or partially so. That looks like soot on the ceramic of the center probe, and also on the sheet-metal in that first picture.