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1 is the warmest, 5 is usually the default setting and 9 is the coldest. 

Edited by jc2

2010 Newmar Dutch Aire 4304-Spartan Chassis-Cummins ISL 425hp-2013 Chevrolet Equinox AWD Towed-SKP# 120487-FMCA #402879-

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5 minutes ago, jc2 said:

1 is the warmest, 5 is usually the default setting and 9 is the coldest. 

Thank you

Still seeing Places we have never seen before and others that we thought we would never see again!

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homelesshartshorns | Trying to spend the last Dollar on the Last Day! (wordpress.com)

George Hartshorn | Facebook

 

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10 hours ago, jc2 said:

Your welcome, glad to help.

Maybe you can offer some other suggestions. Numbers have not helped. Temp is at 60 wont move overnight. Run on gas and on elect no change. I checked the fuse under the panel in the back of the fridge. It is not iced up. The button on the fins in side the fridge is on the 10th blade from the left half way up, where its been for the five years we have had it. A few days ago the Wife found things froze in the bottom of the fridge and turned it down. Since then its having an issue. Any suggestions would be apricated..

Still seeing Places we have never seen before and others that we thought we would never see again!

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homelesshartshorns | Trying to spend the last Dollar on the Last Day! (wordpress.com)

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45 minutes ago, homelesshartshorns said:

A few days ago the Wife found things froze in the bottom of the fridge and turned it down. Since then its having an issue. Any suggestions would be apricated..

The frozen issue sounds like a temperature sensing thermistor, (The button on the fins) as your refrigerator will go into a constant cool mode if it detects the thermistor is either open or shorted. But that doesn't explain the failure to cool now, unless the constant cool problem then caused an additional failure. You didn't say what model of Norcold you have, so I can't look through the service manual, but the constant 60° temperature makes me think that you have a new problem or the original problem has gotten worse. There are several possible causes of your symptoms, none of them good. It could be a circuit board failure or even a complete cooling unit failure. If you look around in the back of the refrigerator and either small a faint odor of ammonia or see some yellow residue, that is an indication of a loss of refrigerant, meaning cooling unit failure. They also sometimes become blocked internally and that too means a new cooling unit. 

If you locate the boiler where the refrigerant is heated to boil into a vapor, it should be hot and the tubing above it also but becoming less hot as you go up the tubing. If the bottom part is extremely hot but the upper part is cold, that pretty much means no refrigerant movement. You may find some help with this troubleshooting guide.

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

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2 hours ago, Kirk W said:

The frozen issue sounds like a temperature sensing thermistor, (The button on the fins) as your refrigerator will go into a constant cool mode if it detects the thermistor is either open or shorted. But that doesn't explain the failure to cool now, unless the constant cool problem then caused an additional failure. You didn't say what model of Norcold you have, so I can't look through the service manual, but the constant 60° temperature makes me think that you have a new problem or the original problem has gotten worse. There are several possible causes of your symptoms, none of them good. It could be a circuit board failure or even a complete cooling unit failure. If you look around in the back of the refrigerator and either small a faint odor of ammonia or see some yellow residue, that is an indication of a loss of refrigerant, meaning cooling unit failure. They also sometimes become blocked internally and that too means a new cooling unit. 

If you locate the boiler where the refrigerant is heated to boil into a vapor, it should be hot and the tubing above it also but becoming less hot as you go up the tubing. If the bottom part is extremely hot but the upper part is cold, that pretty much means no refrigerant movement. You may find some help with this troubleshooting guide.

Thank you

Still seeing Places we have never seen before and others that we thought we would never see again!

.

homelesshartshorns | Trying to spend the last Dollar on the Last Day! (wordpress.com)

George Hartshorn | Facebook

 

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Let us know if there is anything we can do to help.  You may be able to locate a service manual in .pdf form on Bryant RV Services. The model and serial should be on a decal inside of the refrigerator door, usually on the right side. 

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

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22 minutes ago, Kirk W said:

Let us know if there is anything we can do to help.  You may be able to locate a service manual in .pdf form on Bryant RV Services. The model and serial should be on a decal inside of the refrigerator door, usually on the right side. 

N841 I'm waiting for the repair man to show up. Seems to me like the elect heating element is too hot, too hot to touch! So I am not trying gas side. 

Still seeing Places we have never seen before and others that we thought we would never see again!

.

homelesshartshorns | Trying to spend the last Dollar on the Last Day! (wordpress.com)

George Hartshorn | Facebook

 

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4 hours ago, homelesshartshorns said:

Seems to me like the elect heating element is too hot, too hot to touch!

I will be hoping that I'm wrong about what that symptom means. Let us know how things turn out. 

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

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