30safari Posted May 2, 2021 Report Share Posted May 2, 2021 I have a Dometic rm3862, it is getting no power. I thought it was the control board so replaced it with a dinosaur p-711 and still nothing. Im getting 120v at the AC terminals but 0.9v at the AC out terminals, I'm getting 12v to the 12v+ terminal. But I'm not getting any volts to the interior light. It's a brand new board and I have continuity at all the fuses. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted May 2, 2021 Report Share Posted May 2, 2021 Welcome to the Escapee forums! Sorry to hear that refrigerator problems are what brought you here but we are still pleased that you have come. If you do not have one, you can get a copy of the service manual for your refrigerator by visiting the site of Bryant RV Service and download a .pdf copy. I am not sure that I understand where it is that you measured 120V & 12V? Are the AC out terminals you measured on the circuit board? Since you have no interior light, I am reasonably sure that your problem is in the 12V side as it is the power for all control functions and the only thing supplied by 120V is the electric heater. I'd feel pretty confident in concluding that it doesn't work on propane either. Do the indications on the control display light up at all? If not the problem may be the upper circuit board. Quote Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjohnt Posted May 3, 2021 Report Share Posted May 3, 2021 (edited) On 5/1/2021 at 11:43 PM, 30safari said: I have a Dometic rm3862, it is getting no power. I thought it was the control board so replaced it with a dinosaur p-711 and still nothing. Im getting 120v at the AC terminals but 0.9v at the AC out terminals, I'm getting 12v to the 12v+ terminal. But I'm not getting any volts to the interior light. Safari, if you replaced the board with a Dinosaur brand FWIW Ive never had any of those go bad???? Typically the fridge has a 120 VAC power cord that plugs into a receptacle and from what you posted thats okay?? In order to get 120 VAC to power the elec resistive heating element the 120 is present, any eyebrow (it needs good DC voltage also plus is working right) or other control switches have power are working and are set properly, in which case the boards relay (if working and it and the eyebrow panel are supplied adequate DC voltage and set correctly for 120 VAC operation) should close to send 120 (NOT 0.9) volts to the heating element. I wonder about the 12 VDCV source as if its too low the new board may not function properly?? Does it work if plugged to shore power ??? Is the voltage 12.0 (low 12 volt battery) or say 12.3 to 12.6 (full charged battery) or even 13+ when plugged to shore power ??? Once you insure you have a good solid DC voltage source we will go from there. It could be a DC power problem or another board or no telling what else, consult the Manual for troubleshooting tips as were pretty well in the dark here but still trying to help John T Edited May 4, 2021 by oldjohnt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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