trimster Posted April 3, 2021 Report Share Posted April 3, 2021 Looking at the fittings on my trucks Air Con system, it seems that the low pressure connection is rather inconveniently located above the valve cover on the firewall. Is this correct? The high pressure side is easy to get to, on the line coming out of the radiator, pretty much above the compressor. Second air con questions... there seems to be a leak in the low pressure side at at tubing connection point behind the engine air filter housing. This is dripping down right onto the hot exhaust manifold. I'm having to imagine that the drip is the oil in the air conditioning system? Are connection points in the air conditioning tubing rebuildable? Pull it apart with the proper tool and add a new o-ring/gasket do-hicky? Is this something most air conditioning service providers can deal with or is it a 'big truck' kinda service provider I have to look for? Thanks all. Quote Robert & Lisa '14 Keystone Fuzion 315 38' 5er 2015 Volvo VNL 670, D13, iShift 'The Tartis' (ours) 2013 Smart Fortwo Passion 'K-9' 2011 CanAm Spyder RT Limited (Ours) We are both USAF vets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darryl&Rita Posted April 3, 2021 Report Share Posted April 3, 2021 A/C repair shop. Backyard mechanic, if you've got a vacuum pump and system gauges. Quote I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication 2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet 2007 32.5' Fleetwood QuantumPlease e-mail us here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimster Posted April 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2021 Got the gauges, not the pump. I just put in a can and cold air returns. Nice! Quote Robert & Lisa '14 Keystone Fuzion 315 38' 5er 2015 Volvo VNL 670, D13, iShift 'The Tartis' (ours) 2013 Smart Fortwo Passion 'K-9' 2011 CanAm Spyder RT Limited (Ours) We are both USAF vets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darryl&Rita Posted April 3, 2021 Report Share Posted April 3, 2021 2 minutes ago, trimster said: Got the gauges, not the pump. I just put in a can and cold air returns. Nice! The new cans of Freon are pretty fancy, gauges and everything. Almost cheating. Quote I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication 2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet 2007 32.5' Fleetwood QuantumPlease e-mail us here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverEasy Posted April 5, 2021 Report Share Posted April 5, 2021 I rebuilt my entire AC system a couple of years ago. Had a hard time finding the right seals. Bought a few generic seal kits to get some of them. The one from Volvo had some of the seals but not all. Worst leaks were those you pointed out, on the firewall behind the air filter. The others bad leaks were under the bunk. Easy to get to from the side storage door. A can of freon with leak detector and a black light helped locate the leaks. To check it before even putting on the vacuum pump, I charged it with nitrogen then used the Whisper leak detector and kids bubble soap to find leaks. Nitrogen is not necessary, you can use shop air since you will have already exposed the system to the environment. It will still need a 24 hour vacuum down before installing new freon. Fortunately, I have a heavy duty vacuum pump and did all the work myself. Quote Chet & Deb '01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart '19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel 2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed Retired CWO4, USN and federal service Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollinbrian Posted April 5, 2021 Report Share Posted April 5, 2021 5 hours ago, NeverEasy said: I rebuilt my entire AC system a couple of years ago. Had a hard time finding the right seals. Bought a few generic seal kits to get some of them. The one from Volvo had some of the seals but not all. Worst leaks were those you pointed out, on the firewall behind the air filter. The others bad leaks were under the bunk. Easy to get to from the side storage door. A can of freon with leak detector and a black light helped locate the leaks. To check it before even putting on the vacuum pump, I charged it with nitrogen then used the Whisper leak detector and kids bubble soap to find leaks. Nitrogen is not necessary, you can use shop air since you will have already exposed the system to the environment. It will still need a 24 hour vacuum down before installing new freon. Fortunately, I have a heavy duty vacuum pump and did all the work myself. Would live a parts list from that project if it's still handy. Quote 2017 Jayco Designer 37rs "Fiona" 2007 Volvo 670 "Henry" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverEasy Posted April 6, 2021 Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 Sorry, no parts list. I started my Gen 1 project by going to Volvo and ordering their Air Conditioner rebuild kit (joke!). That got me about 1/2 the seals. Then I went to NAPA and got as many AC kits as I could. There was one big green o-ring that none of the usual places had. I got it out of a book of seals at Tidewater Fleet Supply. The book said it was for a Mercury Grand Marquee. Quote Chet & Deb '01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart '19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel 2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed Retired CWO4, USN and federal service Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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