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Brake Job


COFLTravler
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Need to ask the experts on the forum..

Really need new brake pads on my rig - it has disk brakes all around so really easy to swap out the pads...the issue is getting the wheels off and back on...always trying to save a nickel and besides love to tinker....

What are other folks doing to remove wheels ( I've done a lot of reading about the Milwaukee 1/2 gun as a possible tool)  If I get a torque multiplier to remove the nuts  do folks use the multiplier to reinstall and how do you know if it's torqued correctly? 

 I know besides taking it to the shop?

Mark

 

 

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A 3/4" or 1" impact will be your friend. Most shops hammer them until they quit moving and that makes it difficult for everyone.  I always use a 3/4" torque wrench to put mine back on to prevent the aluminum wheel from getting cracked. If you don't have a large impact, get a torque multiplier to break them loose and then spin them off with a smaller impact.

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5 hours ago, COFLTravler said:

Need to ask the experts on the forum..

Really need new brake pads on my rig - it has disk brakes all around so really easy to swap out the pads...the issue is getting the wheels off and back on...always trying to save a nickel and besides love to tinker....

What are other folks doing to remove wheels ( I've done a lot of reading about the Milwaukee 1/2 gun as a possible tool)  If I get a torque multiplier to remove the nuts  do folks use the multiplier to reinstall and how do you know if it's torqued correctly? 

 I know besides taking it to the shop?

Mark

 

 

I used my torgue multiplier on a friends truck to do a brake job, and after he took it to a tire shop and had them check them and they said they were all tight.

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2 hours ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

A 3/4" or 1" impact will be your friend. Most shops hammer them until they quit moving and that makes it difficult for everyone.  I always use a 3/4" torque wrench to put mine back on to prevent the aluminum wheel from getting cracked. If you don't have a large impact, get a torque multiplier to break them loose and then spin them off with a smaller impact.

I don't know if it's legal concerns or something else, but every tire shop I've been to in the last few years has snugged the lug nuts and then finished with a torque wrench. Makes me happier. Jay

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Since you are in the HDT section I would recommend using the 3/4 drive. I use the Tee or Power bar with a 5 foot pipe. I have used the same pipe over 20 years breaking nuts and bolts loose. Going back I'm using 1/2 inch drive torque wrench at 150 pounds.

Clay and I avoid CH Ina tools when my knuckles are involved

 

 

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13 hours ago, Jaydrvr said:

I don't know if it's legal concerns or something else, but every tire shop I've been to in the last few years has snugged the lug nuts and then finished with a torque wrench. Makes me happier. Jay

I've noticed that too, but it seems they tighten with the impact then check w/ the torque wrench to be sure they've gone tight enough, which of course they have........

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1 hour ago, rickeieio said:

I've noticed that too, but it seems they tighten with the impact then check w/ the torque wrench to be sure they've gone tight enough, which of course they have........

My experience is different, but then I only use a couple regular shops. They pretty much get it close and then finish tightening with the torque wrench. Jay

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Buzzing the nuts on till they kiss is ok with a power tool.

They should still move with a manual torque wrench to the desired torque and "click".

If the torque wrench is set at 450lbs-ft it will "click" trying to move a 700lbs-ft fastener...

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How can you tell you need new pads without being able to take the rear wheels off?  Can you see the wear notches with wheels still on a Volvo?  That's a frustrating thing on the KW's.  Be sure to get a pocket full of new shear adapters.  Those are frustrating as well.

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1 hour ago, Scrap said:

How can you tell you need new pads without being able to take the rear wheels off?  Can you see the wear notches with wheels still on a Volvo?  That's a frustrating thing on the KW's.  Be sure to get a pocket full of new shear adapters.  Those are frustrating as well.

Hey Scrap,

Yes you can see the wear indicators as well as some of the pad (mine does not have the dust covers).  

 

So hear I go....decided to go with the Cheater Wrench.  Also ordered their adapter (1" to 1/2"), that you can use a 1/2" torque wrench through the torque multiplier.  They have a chart to set the torque wrench in relation to the multiplier to obtain the "correct" torque.  We shall see - will report on my progress.

Thanks for all the input

Mark

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1 hour ago, COFLTravler said:

They have a chart to set the torque wrench in relation to the multiplier to obtain the "correct" torque. 

I'd be curious to know whether they account for "frictional losses" in the torque values.  I would think the multiplier would have some serious internal friction going on.

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FWIW I picked up a Milwaukee 1/2 drive fuel impact at Home Depot. I was in need to get wheels off and this fit the bill at $250.  I already had 5 Amp batts. 

I know it’s not the higher rated impact of a 3/4” but it’s perfect for my use. It pounds off the lugs with over 1000ftbs  and able to tighten them without over torquing but real close when torqued checked. 
 

Came in handy on the Morryde suspension I had to replace. 
 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-FUEL-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless-1-2-in-Impact-Wrench-with-Pin-Detent-Tool-Only-2766-20/302675406?MERCH=REC-_-pip_alternatives-_-313511878-_-302675406-_-N&

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11 hours ago, billr said:

FWIW I picked up a Milwaukee 1/2 drive fuel impact at Home Depot. I was in need to get wheels off and this fit the bill at $250.  I already had 5 Amp batts. 

I know it’s not the higher rated impact of a 3/4” but it’s perfect for my use. It pounds off the lugs with over 1000ftbs  and able to tighten them without over torquing but real close when torqued checked. 
 

Came in handy on the Morryde suspension I had to replace. 
 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-FUEL-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless-1-2-in-Impact-Wrench-with-Pin-Detent-Tool-Only-2766-20/302675406?MERCH=REC-_-pip_alternatives-_-313511878-_-302675406-_-N&

I got that one and the Milwaukee 3/4 drive. I am kind of impressed the 1/2 does the job. I have had some lug nuts that the 3/4 struggles with. I think I over heated it the other day. Socket was so hot I couldn't touch it. But then this was an old trailer. I think Moses was still alive the last time the wheels were off. Pretty rusty.

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On 3/19/2021 at 9:00 PM, billr said:

FWIW I picked up a Milwaukee 1/2 drive fuel impact at Home Depot. I was in need to get wheels off and this fit the bill at $250.  I already had 5 Amp batts. 

I know it’s not the higher rated impact of a 3/4” but it’s perfect for my use. It pounds off the lugs with over 1000ftbs  and able to tighten them without over torquing but real close when torqued checked. 
 

Came in handy on the Morryde suspension I had to replace. 
 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-FUEL-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless-1-2-in-Impact-Wrench-with-Pin-Detent-Tool-Only-2766-20/302675406?MERCH=REC-_-pip_alternatives-_-313511878-_-302675406-_-N&

 

So I elected to go with the Milwaukee M18 Fuel 1/2" and wow quite the tool. 

I ended up not using the cheater wrench for torquing... was not impressed - may work great for removal but did not use...

Man am I glad I changed my disk pads...they still had some life left as the indicators showed (not much),  but they were a mess breaking apart....

Just another job done on the rig...or should I say just more money gone.....

Mark

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