New Camper, need a different vehicle

[WICamper]

1 minute ago, JimK said:

It is not the size of the trailer that is the issue.  Sadly many manufacturers skimp on the axles, wheels, and tires.  I think it is all but criminal.  Many new RVers just don't realize how quickly the weight adds up.  

Do you know how to research what manufacturers skimp on axles, wheels, and tires? Now I am worried. 

[JimK]

Sadly your 700# cargo capacity tells the story.  A slightly beefier suspension or a second axle or 15" wheels and tires instead of 14" would have solved the issue and for slightly more cost you could have had two or three times the cargo capacity with the same basic design.  Next I would check the brand of tires.  If they are cheap Chinese "bombs", I would replace them even if they are new.   And, always, always be sure they are properly inflated.  Buy the best rated tires and plan on replacing them every 4-5 years regardless of wear.

Short of selling the unit, I would consider getting a suitable tow vehicle with a lot of storage and cargo capacity.  A crew cab 3/4 or 1 ton p/u truck should do nicely.  Pickups typically have strong resale value and especially those with a crew cab.  Landscapers and construction guys like them because they can carry a crew and plenty of gear.  You won't need to switch from wet and canned goods to freeze dried meals if you can carry heavy stuff in the truck.  I think you mentioned bikes.  I am not sure how many but bikes for 5 does not seem doable with your rig.

[Jinx & Wayne]

11 minutes ago, WICamper said:

Do you know how to research what manufacturers skimp on axles, wheels, and tires? Now I am worried. 

Don't let them scare you.  You should be fine if you use common sense.  The manufacturers skimp on the tires, axles and wheels in the sense that you are left with 710# of load capacity because they used minimums capacity parts for the suspension and put the rest into interior bling to get buyers.

Be sure you have enough truck (which is why you started this whole deal.)

Use the calculator.  Stay within weight limits, preferably with a safety margin.  Weigh your vehicles as loaded for the road with kids, dogs and bikes included.  There should be truck scales in your area.

 Look at your tires.  Check their age (they have a four digit code on each tire showing the week (first two digits) and year (last two digits) of manufacture.  Then check the manufacturer's information on tire life.  Check the load and speed ratings of the tires. (My fifth wheel came with tires rated for 56 MPH. And that was from a top end manufacturer!  I upgraded to 75 mph ratings with better load capacity) 

Do NOT think that you can tow at the speeds what you would drive without a trailer.  Slower is better.  I travel at 58-62 max. I will pass a bit faster, conditions permitting. That range is also my sweet spot for fuel use. 

Check tire pressures and follow the manufacturer's pressure charts.  Check tires and axle hubs at stops for temperature signs of problems (bulging, flat, loss of tread.)  Be sure to torque and re-torque the lug nuts at start, 50 and 100 miles with aluminum wheels.

Have fun.  My wife camped for years with her parents, three sisters (five years from oldest to youngest) and a very large dog in an 18' Mallard.  She and her sisters all remember it fondly.

Wayne & Jinx
2017 F-350 diesel, dually
2006 Carriage Carri-Lite 36KSQ

[fpmtngal]

You do have a more complicated issue than many since your trailer is limited.

A Grand Cherokee could tow the trailer but it wouldn’t be my first choice - too limited for extra cargo.  The Suburban and Tahoe could be OK.  I suspect that the Sequoia would be similar as far as payload limits, but I might be wrong now - haven’t looked at them in a couple of years.

The Ford Expedition would probably work as well as the Suburban and Tahoe (maybe).  It’s too bad Chevy discontinued their 3/4 ton Suburban - that would have given you all sorts of extra payload and room.

Chevy makes a good passenger van that has good weight ratings, and much better tow ratings than Ford’s big passenger van (as I recall).  That might be a very good way to go, though not an SUV. 

One of the issues you’ll have is payload.  A vehicle’s payload goes down as the trim level goes up - things like sunroofs, etc. add weight to a vehicle and that takes away from how much you can put in it.  You’d have to look at the sticker on each vehicle you consider to make sure you have enough payload to hold what you can’t put in the trailer.

[WICamper]

8 hours ago, Jinx & Wayne said:

Don't let them scare you.  You should be fine if you use common sense.  The manufacturers skimp on the tires, axles and wheels in the sense that you are left with 710# of load capacity because they used minimums capacity parts for the suspension and put the rest into interior bling to get buyers.

Be sure you have enough truck (which is why you started this whole deal.)

Use the calculator.  Stay within weight limits, preferably with a safety margin.  Weigh your vehicles as loaded for the road with kids, dogs and bikes included.  There should be truck scales in your area.

 Look at your tires.  Check their age (they have a four digit code on each tire showing the week (first two digits) and year (last two digits) of manufacture.  Then check the manufacturer's information on tire life.  Check the load and speed ratings of the tires. (My fifth wheel came with tires rated for 56 MPH. And that was from a top end manufacturer!  I upgraded to 75 mph ratings with better load capacity) 

Do NOT think that you can tow at the speeds what you would drive without a trailer.  Slower is better.  I travel at 58-62 max. I will pass a bit faster, conditions permitting. That range is also my sweet spot for fuel use. 

Check tire pressures and follow the manufacturer's pressure charts.  Check tires and axle hubs at stops for temperature signs of problems (bulging, flat, loss of tread.)  Be sure to torque and re-torque the lug nuts at start, 50 and 100 miles with aluminum wheels.

Have fun.  My wife camped for years with her parents, three sisters (five years from oldest to youngest) and a very large dog in an 18' Mallard.  She and her sisters all remember it fondly.

Wayne & Jinx
2017 F-350 diesel, dually
2006 Carriage Carri-Lite 36KSQ

Thanks. We are definitely going to be cautious and will not overload the camper. Will find a large vehicle to tow it with.

[WICamper]

8 hours ago, fpmtngal said:

You do have a more complicated issue than many since your trailer is limited.

A Grand Cherokee could tow the trailer but it wouldn’t be my first choice - too limited for extra cargo.  The Suburban and Tahoe could be OK.  I suspect that the Sequoia would be similar as far as payload limits, but I might be wrong now - haven’t looked at them in a couple of years.

The Ford Expedition would probably work as well as the Suburban and Tahoe (maybe).  It’s too bad Chevy discontinued their 3/4 ton Suburban - that would have given you all sorts of extra payload and room.

Chevy makes a good passenger van that has good weight ratings, and much better tow ratings than Ford’s big passenger van (as I recall).  That might be a very good way to go, though not an SUV. 

One of the issues you’ll have is payload.  A vehicle’s payload goes down as the trim level goes up - things like sunroofs, etc. add weight to a vehicle and that takes away from how much you can put in it.  You’d have to look at the sticker on each vehicle you consider to make sure you have enough payload to hold what you can’t put in the trailer.

Thanks for the advice, will check the stickers in each vehicle to make sure we can get enough payload. 

[Kirk W]

9 hours ago, Jinx & Wayne said:

Don't let them scare you.  You should be fine if you use common sense. 

This is by far the best advice given so far, in my opinion. I have owned and traveled extensively with a wide range of RVs and I presently own one of the ultra-light travel trailers that are under attack. My trailer has a cargo capacity of about the same as yours and, while there are only two of us in it, we have spent as long as 5 consecutive months quite comfortably by using good sense and planning. I tow that trailer with a 3/4 ton, Dodge 2500, 4 door truck. We carry most of the heavier things in the truck. It is a little less convenient than it was with our RVs which had a larger cargo capacity, but it can be done. Pay attention to the weight limits of both the tow vehicle and the trailer but do not be frightened by those who doubt your choice. As long as you keep the limits in mind and weigh both the truck and the trailer when loaded, you can do this. I still travel with our 3800# GVWR travel trailer and it is not overloaded. 

[JimK]

I don't think common sense helps much when it comes to loading an RV and driving it safely.  In fact the opposite is true.  Most of us would believe that an RV would be built when enough to handle the weight of stuff we would likely want to use with it.  Instead I suspect a high percentage of RVs on the road are overloaded.  I know I had a shock the first time I weighed my rig loaded up and ready for a trip.

[sandsys]

35 minutes ago, JimK said:

I know I had a shock the first time I weighed my rig loaded up and ready for a trip.

That's why, after our first decision failure regarding weight, we made driving over a scale part of the buying process. They were mostly CAT scales but one was in a gravel sales yard--whatever works where you are.

Linda

[Kirk W]

4 hours ago, JimK said:

I don't think common sense helps much when it comes to loading an RV and driving it safely. 

I guess that just depends on the person and how well informed he happens to be. 

[Jinx & Wayne]

12 hours ago, JimK said:

I don't think common sense helps much when it comes to loading an RV and driving it safely.  In fact the opposite is true.  Most of us would believe that an RV would be built when enough to handle the weight of stuff we would likely want to use with it.  Instead I suspect a high percentage of RVs on the road are overloaded.  I know I had a shock the first time I weighed my rig loaded up and ready for a trip.

For me "common sense" says learn about driving and towing several tons of metal at high speeds BEFORE you do it.  Perhaps I should have said "uncommon sense" because daily observations tell me that it is less common than I would like to believe.  The OP clearly has sense, common or otherwise, because she was here asking questions and learning.

Wayne & Jinx
2017 F-350 diesel, dually
2006 Carriage Carri-Lite 36KSQ

[JimK]

I think the problem begins with the manufacturer and then with the dealers.  Way too many RVs are cheaply built and the suspension, wheels and tires are poor at best.  A new RV buyer is unlikely to realize this.  Even here we have experienced RVers tell a newcomer to make it work.  

[noteven]

33 minutes ago, JimK said:

I think the problem begins with the manufacturer and then with the dealers.  Way too many RVs are cheaply built and the suspension, wheels and tires are poor at best.  A new RV buyer is unlikely to realize this.  Even here we have experienced RVers tell a newcomer to make it work.  

This may be the exception but when I bought my truck camper at a dealer in SK Canada I had to sign a waiver that I understood the weight and balance of the camper and would carry it on a suitable truck...

[JimK]

My truck camper dealer was pretty good about this.  He told me a 3/4 ton would carry the load but suggested upgrading the suspension with airbags.  After that we added a second solar panel, the largest pair of AGM batteries that would fit, a mattress upgrade and lots of gear for full time use.  The dealer was correct, for short term use, the 3/4 ton was OK.  Unfortunately for our use the tires were overloaded and I had to upgrade wheels and tires.

Now I am carrying the same camper with a 1 ton truck and still had to add Timbrens to keep the headlights from pointing too far upwards.

I really wish my dealer had spent more time on this issue.  I bought the camper before I bought the truck so he would still have made the sale.

[Jinx & Wayne]

On 3/18/2021 at 2:58 PM, JimK said:

Now I am carrying the same camper with a 1 ton truck and still had to add Timbrens to keep the headlights from pointing too far upwards.

JimK - SRW or DRW? I've considered a truck camper for hunting.  I have DRW

Wayne & Jinx
2017 F-350 diesel, dually
2006 Carriage Carri-Lite 36KSQ

 

[JimK]

13 hours ago, Jinx & Wayne said:

JimK - SRW or DRW? I've considered a truck camper for hunting.  I have DRW

Wayne & Jinx
2017 F-350 diesel, dually
2006 Carriage Carri-Lite 36KSQ

 

My guess is you will have an issue with headlight aiming whether it is SRW or DRW.  There is a couple reasons I think that is the case.  First campers get heavy quickly.  A simple hard sided camper without slides can easily total in at 3000-4000+ pounds.  Next modern pickup trucks can carry a lot of weight but they are also built for comfort and a nice ride; i.e., they tend to sag under heavy weights.  It does not take much of a drop in the level of the truck to cause an issue with headlight aiming.  Timbrens were a good choice for me.  They help to keep the truck level, help with the heavy weight and are not engaged at all when the camper is removed.  Without the Timbrens, I was blinding oncoming traffic.  

[noteven]

Toyota Tundra has headlight aiming from driver command station.

My 1991 Toyota FJ80 Land Cruiser had headlight re-aiming levels on top of the light units. 1 minute with a screwdriver. 

One wonders why "domestic" trucks in 2021....  But they have TV sized distraction screens in the "center stack"... 

Back to regular programming...

[mptjelgin]

1 hour ago, noteven said:

Toyota Tundra has headlight aiming from driver command station.

My 1991 Toyota FJ80 Land Cruiser had headlight re-aiming levels on top of the light units. 1 minute with a screwdriver. 

One wonders why "domestic" trucks in 2021....  But they have TV sized distraction screens in the "center stack"... 

Back to regular programming...

Well have I got some good news for you!!  Both of my Fords (2019 and 2017) have re-aiming adjusters that are immediately accessible once you open the hood.  If you already have the screwdriver, it doesn't even take 1 minute. 

Did you even bother to check on what that those silly old "domestic" trucks have, or did you just assume?

[noteven]

2 hours ago, mptjelgin said:

Well have I got some good news for you!!  Both of my Fords (2019 and 2017) have re-aiming adjusters that are immediately accessible once you open the hood.  If you already have the screwdriver, it doesn't even take 1 minute. 

Did you even bother to check on what that those silly old "domestic" trucks have, or did you just assume?

Of course I "ass umed" ... I knew domestic would cotton on to 1991 tech...

Come to think of it I should check my own Ford F three fitty 

Thanks!

[RV_]

Go here and read all the pages and I think your questions will be answered https://rv.org/blogs/news

We will be here to help.

[RV_]

On 3/14/2021 at 7:52 AM, WICamper said:

What vehicle would be best to haul our camper, our people and bikes?! I would prefer an SUV and we are planning a trip to Colorado this summer. What vehicle handles best in mountains hauling a camper? 

OK remember you asked what is best, not affordable, not smallish, not compact but best.

There is no such thing as too much truck. So optimal would be a 1 ton truck with dual rear wheels to keep it under control when 18 wheelers pass and in heavy winds regardless of hitch type. Go to the weight calculator Ray posted on the first page too.

Then you can balance comfort, capacities, safety, and weight ratings, to your personal comfort zone.

[RV_]

duplicate What's going on with the 24 seconds waits?? It did four saying it did not.

 

Edited July 12, 2021 by RV_

[sandsys]

7 hours ago, jamesph said:

I like the Mercedes Sprinter, like the 2020 Mercedes sprinter, it uses advanced car technologies for maximum convenience 

I ordered my 2012 Sprinter with a suspension package designed for vehicles that carry loads high up since RVs have all those upper cupboards. It handled better than our previous Sprinters.

Linda