Jump to content

Spray on Wax for HDT


Vegas Teacher

Recommended Posts

I am planning on a completely new paint job on my Volvo at some point, but I was wondering does anybody have a favorite wax for their HDT? I have never waxed paint that was put on over fiberglass before, just wondering if there were any pitfalls to watch out for?????

Later,

Vegas Teacher - Cory Ossana

Edited by Vegas Teacher
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The paint is what matters, not what's under it.  Most of your truck is steel.  The hood and bottom fairings are fiberglass or abs.

Any good wax is fine.  I'm partial to a Meguire's product that polishes and waxes in one step.  Can't remember the specific product.  But remember, you don't get good results without some elbow grease.  Your efforts will be rewarded.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use Mothers in a bottle.  But Rick is right, any good wax.

Edited by SuiteSuccess

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

The paint is what matters, not what's under it.  Most of your truck is steel.  The hood and bottom fairings are fiberglass or abs.

Any good wax is fine.  I'm partial to a Meguire's product that polishes and waxes in one step.  Can't remember the specific product.  But remember, you don't get good results without some elbow grease.  Your efforts will be rewarded.

Thanks! I was worried that if I put the wrong wax on the paint it would hurt it because of the fiberglass, really appreciate the information!!!!!!!

Later,

Vegas Teacher - Cory O

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am not an auto detailer but I do like to take care of my vehicles and being a business owner, I have learned a few things that have helped me do some care myself before I go to the "professionals".

Wash an area that you can handle to do, say one side of the truck.  Then using a decent clay bar product and some liquid to help it slide around, like blue Dawn & water in a spray bottle(just a few DROPS of Dawn for the entire bottle of water), run the entire area with the clay bar.  This will remove contaminents from the paint and any wax that might be on there.  Take your time and do it on the complete area, this is a prep step and will help the finished product.  Once you have finished with the clay bar, wash the area again, dry it with a good chamois or microfiber towel.  Then use a LIQUID carnuba wax, its easier to work with.  Let it haze completely, even a few hours shouldnt hurt, and using a microfiber towel, buff the haze to a shine.  

Wait a week or so and wax the area again, and do another coat of wax.  Not likely to need to clay bar again as that will remove the wax you previously put on it.  You might just be surprised by what that elbow grease will do.

Marcel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, rpsinc said:

I am not an auto detailer but I do like to take care of my vehicles and being a business owner, I have learned a few things that have helped me do some care myself before I go to the "professionals".

Wash an area that you can handle to do, say one side of the truck.  Then using a decent clay bar product and some liquid to help it slide around, like blue Dawn & water in a spray bottle(just a few DROPS of Dawn for the entire bottle of water), run the entire area with the clay bar.  This will remove contaminents from the paint and any wax that might be on there.  Take your time and do it on the complete area, this is a prep step and will help the finished product.  Once you have finished with the clay bar, wash the area again, dry it with a good chamois or microfiber towel.  Then use a LIQUID carnuba wax, its easier to work with.  Let it haze completely, even a few hours shouldnt hurt, and using a microfiber towel, buff the haze to a shine.  

Wait a week or so and wax the area again, and do another coat of wax.  Not likely to need to clay bar again as that will remove the wax you previously put on it.  You might just be surprised by what that elbow grease will do.

Clay Bar????? Like the clay we used in grade school? Can you give me an address for amazon that I can order one from? I love this idea, I love to polish cars. I used to do it when I was in College to make cash money. I would get up at 6:00 a.m. and get 40.00 to wash, wax and detail the inside and out of a car. Now the place down the street gets 250.00 for that job......

Later,

Vegas Teacher

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your friendly chain auto parts store will have clay bar kits.  But, I gotta ask, why do you want to paint the truck?  If the paint is bad, no amount of wax will repair it.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We had a big cruiser in a marina, and I got frustrated with wax since it dulls so fast and takes constant repeat applications.  The marina neighbors used the stuff in the orange bottle.  Nu Finish The Once A Year Car Polish

I found that it’s not a perfect mirror shine, like wet sanding and 2 or 3 levels of polishing compound would be, but better than wax and a LOT less work.  It wipes on and wipes off.  Just my opinion.

Btw, the above description is fiberglass finishing not automotive paint finishing, paint is a lot softer than gel coat.

Kevin and June

2013 Volvo VNL 730    D13 Eco-Torque @ 425  Ratio 2.47 

2014 DRV 36TKSB3 

Signature.jpegmKgUJbbl.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did the clay bar treatment. Then Light polishing compound on an orbital buffer and blue foam pad. Then wiped the surface down with a high proof and water alcohol mix. NOTE: micro fiber towels are your friends. A pile of them.

Then I used the new Turtlewax ceramic based (Spray and shine?) spritz on, wipe off coating. Now, I just wash when needed. The water just beads up and rolls off. Once every 6 months I spritz on more Turtlewax stuff. Use it on windows as well. Same stuff in the wax as in Rain-X, so water streams off the windshield.

Used to be hard core carnauba wax guy. Not any more.

Robert & Lisa
'14 Keystone Fuzion 315 38' 5er

2015 Volvo VNL 670, D13, iShift 'The Tartis' (ours)

2013 Smart Fortwo Passion 'K-9'

2011 CanAm Spyder RT Limited (Ours)

We are both USAF vets.

LbjZhp0l.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, Vegas Teacher said:

I am planning on a completely new paint job on my Volvo at some point, but I was wondering does anybody have a favorite wax for their HDT? I have never waxed paint that was put on over fiberglass before, just wondering if there were any pitfalls to watch out for?????

Later,

Vegas Teacher - Cory Ossana

Hi Cory,

Let this piece of equipment be your best friend. Porter Cable 7424XP. It's a random orbit polisher. Simple to use and will save your elbows. Do a search on Chemical Guys. They have a bunch of videos on detailing cars. They also sell where own line of products for detail work.

2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger "
  Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood "
    2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog "
 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

46 minutes ago, trimster said:

Used to be hard core carnauba wax guy. Not any more.

 

18 hours ago, rpsinc said:

Then use a LIQUID carnuba wax, its easier to work with.

I believed that carnuba paste wax was the way to go, then discovered liquid.  Way easier to work with and better results.  Have never looked back.  Ceramic coatings are great but for my work trucks, they are not the best option.

Marcel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Twotoes said:

I have a Jeep Rubicon with lots of Arizona pin strips (scratches). How do I remove them? Will a clay bar work?

The point of claying is to remove all the tiny particles of crud to get you down to a clean surface. The particles stick to the clay. Jay

 

 
 
Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, Jaydrvr said:

The point of claying is to remove all the tiny particles of crud to get you down to a clean surface. The particles stick to the clay. Jay

Depends. Some so called "Arizona Pinstripes" are from tree branches rubbing on the sides of the vehicle. Clay bars work well for these. Others are scrapes in the paint. Nothing will cure these. Uh oh, better get Maaco.

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication
2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet
2007 32.5' Fleetwood Quantum


Please e-mail us here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Darryl&Rita said:

Depends. Some so called "Arizona Pinstripes" are from tree branches rubbing on the sides of the vehicle. Clay bars work well for these. Others are scrapes in the paint. Nothing will cure these. Uh oh, better get Maaco.

Cool! Since I'm not familiar with "Arizona Pinstripes", I was making a general comment. Learned something new! Jay

 

 
 
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/5/2021 at 3:40 PM, rpsinc said:

Something like this.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Detailing-Medium-Grade-Clay-Bar-Polishing-Glass-Finish-1x-200g/232916857337?hash=item363aed31f9:g:kIoAAOSwnRJbj4bC

Not the same as grade school modeling clay but certainly in the same family.

Thanks I really appreciate it and will try it next weekend or over spring break depends on the DW.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/5/2021 at 8:10 PM, Sculptor said:

We had a big cruiser in a marina, and I got frustrated with wax since it dulls so fast and takes constant repeat applications.  The marina neighbors used the stuff in the orange bottle.  Nu Finish The Once A Year Car Polish

I found that it’s not a perfect mirror shine, like wet sanding and 2 or 3 levels of polishing compound would be, but better than wax and a LOT less work.  It wipes on and wipes off.  Just my opinion.

Btw, the above description is fiberglass finishing not automotive paint finishing, paint is a lot softer than gel coat.

I used new finish before but I did not know I could use it on fiberglass as I am now learning. I am thinking clay bar the new finish and the turtle was spray and wipe off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/6/2021 at 8:03 AM, alan0043 said:

Hi Cory,

Let this piece of equipment be your best friend. Porter Cable 7424XP. It's a random orbit polisher. Simple to use and will save your elbows. Do a search on Chemical Guys. They have a bunch of videos on detailing cars. They also sell where own line of products for detail work.

Love a new tool or any excuse I can use to convince the DW I need one!!!😎

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/6/2021 at 7:47 AM, trimster said:

I did the clay bar treatment. Then Light polishing compound on an orbital buffer and blue foam pad. Then wiped the surface down with a high proof and water alcohol mix. NOTE: micro fiber towels are your friends. A pile of them.

Then I used the new Turtlewax ceramic based (Spray and shine?) spritz on, wipe off coating. Now, I just wash when needed. The water just beads up and rolls off. Once every 6 months I spritz on more Turtlewax stuff. Use it on windows as well. Same stuff in the wax as in Rain-X, so water streams off the windshield.

Used to be hard core carnauba wax guy. Not any more.

I will absolutely get some! Thinking about traveling some in Utah over Easter/spring break too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Vegas Teacher said:

I used new finish before but I did not know I could use it on fiberglass as I am now learning. I am thinking clay bar the new finish and the turtle was spray and wipe off.

I liked Trimster’s suggestion too.  I might try the Turtle Wax product.

Kevin and June

2013 Volvo VNL 730    D13 Eco-Torque @ 425  Ratio 2.47 

2014 DRV 36TKSB3 

Signature.jpegmKgUJbbl.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
RVers Online University

mywaggle.com

campgroundviews.com

RV Destinations

Find out more or sign up for Escapees RV'ers Bootcamp.

Advertise your product or service here.

The Rvers- Now Streaming

RVTravel.com Logo



×
×
  • Create New...