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Spray on Wax for HDT


Vegas Teacher
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I am planning on a completely new paint job on my Volvo at some point, but I was wondering does anybody have a favorite wax for their HDT? I have never waxed paint that was put on over fiberglass before, just wondering if there were any pitfalls to watch out for?????

Later,

Vegas Teacher - Cory Ossana

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The paint is what matters, not what's under it.  Most of your truck is steel.  The hood and bottom fairings are fiberglass or abs.

Any good wax is fine.  I'm partial to a Meguire's product that polishes and waxes in one step.  Can't remember the specific product.  But remember, you don't get good results without some elbow grease.  Your efforts will be rewarded.

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28 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

The paint is what matters, not what's under it.  Most of your truck is steel.  The hood and bottom fairings are fiberglass or abs.

Any good wax is fine.  I'm partial to a Meguire's product that polishes and waxes in one step.  Can't remember the specific product.  But remember, you don't get good results without some elbow grease.  Your efforts will be rewarded.

Thanks! I was worried that if I put the wrong wax on the paint it would hurt it because of the fiberglass, really appreciate the information!!!!!!!

Later,

Vegas Teacher - Cory O

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I am not an auto detailer but I do like to take care of my vehicles and being a business owner, I have learned a few things that have helped me do some care myself before I go to the "professionals".

Wash an area that you can handle to do, say one side of the truck.  Then using a decent clay bar product and some liquid to help it slide around, like blue Dawn & water in a spray bottle(just a few DROPS of Dawn for the entire bottle of water), run the entire area with the clay bar.  This will remove contaminents from the paint and any wax that might be on there.  Take your time and do it on the complete area, this is a prep step and will help the finished product.  Once you have finished with the clay bar, wash the area again, dry it with a good chamois or microfiber towel.  Then use a LIQUID carnuba wax, its easier to work with.  Let it haze completely, even a few hours shouldnt hurt, and using a microfiber towel, buff the haze to a shine.  

Wait a week or so and wax the area again, and do another coat of wax.  Not likely to need to clay bar again as that will remove the wax you previously put on it.  You might just be surprised by what that elbow grease will do.

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12 minutes ago, rpsinc said:

I am not an auto detailer but I do like to take care of my vehicles and being a business owner, I have learned a few things that have helped me do some care myself before I go to the "professionals".

Wash an area that you can handle to do, say one side of the truck.  Then using a decent clay bar product and some liquid to help it slide around, like blue Dawn & water in a spray bottle(just a few DROPS of Dawn for the entire bottle of water), run the entire area with the clay bar.  This will remove contaminents from the paint and any wax that might be on there.  Take your time and do it on the complete area, this is a prep step and will help the finished product.  Once you have finished with the clay bar, wash the area again, dry it with a good chamois or microfiber towel.  Then use a LIQUID carnuba wax, its easier to work with.  Let it haze completely, even a few hours shouldnt hurt, and using a microfiber towel, buff the haze to a shine.  

Wait a week or so and wax the area again, and do another coat of wax.  Not likely to need to clay bar again as that will remove the wax you previously put on it.  You might just be surprised by what that elbow grease will do.

Clay Bar????? Like the clay we used in grade school? Can you give me an address for amazon that I can order one from? I love this idea, I love to polish cars. I used to do it when I was in College to make cash money. I would get up at 6:00 a.m. and get 40.00 to wash, wax and detail the inside and out of a car. Now the place down the street gets 250.00 for that job......

Later,

Vegas Teacher

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We had a big cruiser in a marina, and I got frustrated with wax since it dulls so fast and takes constant repeat applications.  The marina neighbors used the stuff in the orange bottle.  Nu Finish The Once A Year Car Polish

I found that it’s not a perfect mirror shine, like wet sanding and 2 or 3 levels of polishing compound would be, but better than wax and a LOT less work.  It wipes on and wipes off.  Just my opinion.

Btw, the above description is fiberglass finishing not automotive paint finishing, paint is a lot softer than gel coat.

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I did the clay bar treatment. Then Light polishing compound on an orbital buffer and blue foam pad. Then wiped the surface down with a high proof and water alcohol mix. NOTE: micro fiber towels are your friends. A pile of them.

Then I used the new Turtlewax ceramic based (Spray and shine?) spritz on, wipe off coating. Now, I just wash when needed. The water just beads up and rolls off. Once every 6 months I spritz on more Turtlewax stuff. Use it on windows as well. Same stuff in the wax as in Rain-X, so water streams off the windshield.

Used to be hard core carnauba wax guy. Not any more.

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18 hours ago, Vegas Teacher said:

I am planning on a completely new paint job on my Volvo at some point, but I was wondering does anybody have a favorite wax for their HDT? I have never waxed paint that was put on over fiberglass before, just wondering if there were any pitfalls to watch out for?????

Later,

Vegas Teacher - Cory Ossana

Hi Cory,

Let this piece of equipment be your best friend. Porter Cable 7424XP. It's a random orbit polisher. Simple to use and will save your elbows. Do a search on Chemical Guys. They have a bunch of videos on detailing cars. They also sell where own line of products for detail work.

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46 minutes ago, trimster said:

Used to be hard core carnauba wax guy. Not any more.

 

18 hours ago, rpsinc said:

Then use a LIQUID carnuba wax, its easier to work with.

I believed that carnuba paste wax was the way to go, then discovered liquid.  Way easier to work with and better results.  Have never looked back.  Ceramic coatings are great but for my work trucks, they are not the best option.

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3 hours ago, Twotoes said:

I have a Jeep Rubicon with lots of Arizona pin strips (scratches). How do I remove them? Will a clay bar work?

The point of claying is to remove all the tiny particles of crud to get you down to a clean surface. The particles stick to the clay. Jay

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19 minutes ago, Jaydrvr said:

The point of claying is to remove all the tiny particles of crud to get you down to a clean surface. The particles stick to the clay. Jay

Depends. Some so called "Arizona Pinstripes" are from tree branches rubbing on the sides of the vehicle. Clay bars work well for these. Others are scrapes in the paint. Nothing will cure these. Uh oh, better get Maaco.

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1 hour ago, Darryl&Rita said:

Depends. Some so called "Arizona Pinstripes" are from tree branches rubbing on the sides of the vehicle. Clay bars work well for these. Others are scrapes in the paint. Nothing will cure these. Uh oh, better get Maaco.

Cool! Since I'm not familiar with "Arizona Pinstripes", I was making a general comment. Learned something new! Jay

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On 3/5/2021 at 3:40 PM, rpsinc said:

Something like this.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Detailing-Medium-Grade-Clay-Bar-Polishing-Glass-Finish-1x-200g/232916857337?hash=item363aed31f9:g:kIoAAOSwnRJbj4bC

Not the same as grade school modeling clay but certainly in the same family.

Thanks I really appreciate it and will try it next weekend or over spring break depends on the DW.

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On 3/5/2021 at 8:10 PM, Sculptor said:

We had a big cruiser in a marina, and I got frustrated with wax since it dulls so fast and takes constant repeat applications.  The marina neighbors used the stuff in the orange bottle.  Nu Finish The Once A Year Car Polish

I found that it’s not a perfect mirror shine, like wet sanding and 2 or 3 levels of polishing compound would be, but better than wax and a LOT less work.  It wipes on and wipes off.  Just my opinion.

Btw, the above description is fiberglass finishing not automotive paint finishing, paint is a lot softer than gel coat.

I used new finish before but I did not know I could use it on fiberglass as I am now learning. I am thinking clay bar the new finish and the turtle was spray and wipe off.

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On 3/6/2021 at 8:03 AM, alan0043 said:

Hi Cory,

Let this piece of equipment be your best friend. Porter Cable 7424XP. It's a random orbit polisher. Simple to use and will save your elbows. Do a search on Chemical Guys. They have a bunch of videos on detailing cars. They also sell where own line of products for detail work.

Love a new tool or any excuse I can use to convince the DW I need one!!!😎

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On 3/6/2021 at 7:47 AM, trimster said:

I did the clay bar treatment. Then Light polishing compound on an orbital buffer and blue foam pad. Then wiped the surface down with a high proof and water alcohol mix. NOTE: micro fiber towels are your friends. A pile of them.

Then I used the new Turtlewax ceramic based (Spray and shine?) spritz on, wipe off coating. Now, I just wash when needed. The water just beads up and rolls off. Once every 6 months I spritz on more Turtlewax stuff. Use it on windows as well. Same stuff in the wax as in Rain-X, so water streams off the windshield.

Used to be hard core carnauba wax guy. Not any more.

I will absolutely get some! Thinking about traveling some in Utah over Easter/spring break too.

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8 hours ago, Vegas Teacher said:

I used new finish before but I did not know I could use it on fiberglass as I am now learning. I am thinking clay bar the new finish and the turtle was spray and wipe off.

I liked Trimster’s suggestion too.  I might try the Turtle Wax product.

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