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Tire replacement on fifth wheel - not a question of brand


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We are full timers and so are set up most of the time with our slides out. I have decided to replace the fifth wheel tires but have not done this in a full timing situation before.  
Is it standard practice to call a tire service that will bring the tires and install them on site?  Or does it make more sense to pack up and bring the trailer to a tire seller?

We are currently located SW of Corpus Christi by about 2 hours.  The very small town of Falfurrias, TX has some tire sellers that might be set up for cars and trucks but don’t appear to have room for a large truck and trailer combo in their lot.  Any recommendations for tire sales in south central Texas?

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For what it is worth, when I replaced my tires I just pulled the slides in and lifted the trailer up with the hydraulic jacks, removed the tires/wheels and threw them in the truck and dropped them at the tire shop for half a day. Picked them up and put them back on. Not much of an inconvenience at all.

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My main concern with on-site service would be whether or not they could balance the tires at your site. Like Tim/Tahoe Shark, I can lift the whole rig with the hydraulics and remove the wheels (with good jack stands and blocking, of course). I have also pulled in the slides, hitched up, and pulled the rig to a tire shop before. We are never set up so permanently that it takes me more than 30 minutes to pull everything in and put it on the truck (leaving the sewer hose, etc., at the site for the time being).

Rob

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Thanks all, for the answers.  I never did pick up that impact driver for the lugs.  Second Chance and others make the point that I was forgetting about balancing.  
Still have enough miles left on the tires to get the fiver to a bigger town and a bigger tire dealer.  I think that’s the way I will go.

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Kevin, I've done it both ways.  The first time I had them come to me.  The service call and install was close to $300 at that time.  The second time while I was replacing my brakes and greasing my bearings I threw everything in the back of my pickup and dropped them off at a local tire shop.  I don't change my tires out much cause they wear like iron.  They time out before they ever fail.

Ben

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29 minutes ago, chief916 said:

Kevin, I've done it both ways.  The first time I had them come to me.  The service call and install was close to $300 at that time.  The second time while I was replacing my brakes and greasing my bearings I threw everything in the back of my pickup and dropped them off at a local tire shop.  I don't change my tires out much cause they wear like iron.  They time out before they ever fail.

Ben

Thanks Ben.  The rims were swapped out recently, and this brought to my attention the cupping wear pattern near the edges.  I have some time left but thought it best to plan ahead for a change.  🙂

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If  both edges are wearing that is a sign of under-inflation. If one edge is wearing that is a sign of mis-alignment or  bent axle.

Trailer tires should be inflated to sidewall maximum pressure, this is because tandem axles subject the tire sidewall to extreme stress not found on single axle applications. This is also why ST tires have heavier sidewalls than LT and P rated tires.

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I would bet that those tire companies will order tires for you and if you pull up outside of their shop they will roll out jacks and take off and install tires for you. That is very common in Texas. That is what I do in SE Texas. Good Luck

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On 2/5/2021 at 1:21 PM, Ray,IN said:

If  both edges are wearing that is a sign of under-inflation. If one edge is wearing that is a sign of mis-alignment or  bent axle.

Trailer tires should be inflated to sidewall maximum pressure, this is because tandem axles subject the tire sidewall to extreme stress not found on single axle applications. This is also why ST tires have heavier sidewalls than LT and P rated tires.

Cupping is on one side only.  I will add “find a repair shop” to my list today. Tires have been inflated to 120 in the year we have owned it.  I have forgotten the date on them but suspect it’s time to replace anyway.

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11 hours ago, whj469 said:

I would bet that those tire companies will order tires for you and if you pull up outside of their shop they will roll out jacks and take off and install tires for you. That is very common in Texas. That is what I do in SE Texas. Good Luck

Kingsville or Alice have big tire shops, Falfurrias not so much.  I will call around.

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On 2/7/2021 at 9:38 AM, Sculptor said:

Cupping is on one side only.  I will add “find a repair shop” to my list today. Tires have been inflated to 120 in the year we have owned it.  I have forgotten the date on them but suspect it’s time to replace anyway.

Axle alignment and camber should be checked and corrected if necessary. Rims should be checked for run-out.

I'm looking at a worst-case scenario suggesting all the above. I assume your 5er axle weights are within limits.

Edited by Ray,IN
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On 2/7/2021 at 8:38 AM, Sculptor said:

n the year we have owned it.  I have forgotten the date on them but suspect it’s time to replace anyway.

Seeing your DRV is a 2014 I'm going assume. you have 17.5 tires and Moryde suspension.  GoodYear had some 2014 and 2015 G114 tires with ply separation. I have a Oct 2015 built DRV that two such failures in lest 4 years. Date codes are important as you Alignment could be ok. Moryde suspension alignment people used to be few but check around or call Moryde 

Clay

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I spoke with Vista tires in Falfurrias and they can order and balance/install the tires.  The lot looks big enough, if I use the parking lot next door for backing in.   They quoted about 178 for J range Goodrise brand which I have never heard of, and 202 for J range Hercules brand, which I’m told has a good rep.

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I found the best price on the internet and had the tires shipped to our campground. I took off 2 tires at a time and Walmart charged $10/ea to mount them. For me this was least intrusive method and also gave me good practice to my changing tire skills. Don't forget to swap out your spare tire with the best tire of your removed set.

Becareful that your tires are not too over rated or you will have a rough ride. I have a Cameo that weighs in at 17k loaded and I run my Sailun G tires at 5-10 PSI below max based on weigh charts and observed tire wear. Keep in mind your tires will increase 15-25 PSI during travel on a hot day.

Edited by gjhunter01
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27 minutes ago, gjhunter01 said:

I found the best price on the internet and had the tires shipped to our campground. I took off 2 tires at a time and Walmart charged $10/ea to mount them. For me this was least intrusive method and also gave me good practice to my changing tire skills. Don't forget to swap out your spare tire with the best tire of your removed set.

Good advice thanks.  My reluctance to pay for a TOTL Milwaukee impact wrench has me sitting on my hands.  Also the rare freeze we are having in south Texas is my best excuse today.  🙂

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11 hours ago, gjhunter01 said:

I found the best price on the internet and had the tires shipped to our campground. I took off 2 tires at a time and Walmart charged $10/ea to mount them. For me this was least intrusive method and also gave me good practice to my changing tire skills. Don't forget to swap out your spare tire with the best tire of your removed set.

Becareful that your tires are not too over rated or you will have a rough ride. I have a Cameo that weighs in at 17k loaded and I run my Sailun G tires at 5-10 PSI below max based on weigh charts and observed tire wear. Keep in mind your tires will increase 15-25 PSI during travel on a hot day.

Temperature rise caused by tire warming is not considered when inflating tires, which is only performed when tires are "cold"/ at ambient air temperature.

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On 2/15/2021 at 9:21 PM, Ray,IN said:

Temperature rise caused by tire warming is not considered when inflating tires, which is only performed when tires are "cold"/ at ambient air temperature.

A year ago my TPMS showed 2 tires had gotten to 130 PSI that started out at 105 PSI, before long, I hit a pot hole and cracked both rims on that side. I learned a lesson the hard way that day and will no longer let my 110 rated PSI rims and tires exceed 125 rolling PSI. On rare occasions, I will even stop and release some air to stay below 125 rolling PSI.

This method may be controversial for some people to accept, but it is working for me and I'm getting good even thread wear.

Edited by gjhunter01
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I can imagine having full rated 125 cold pressure, then the heat from driving, is what caused our trailer tires to slide one day during a local rainstorm.  Not enough tread on the ground due to higher pressure, tho still within normal operating pressure.  We were at 45 mph which turned out to be too fast.  Temp was in the 60s.

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