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Repair of a "Stuck" Smart Ignition Key


Jim & Wilma

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If you have a Smart 453, you might want to take a minute and read this - may come in handy some day.

Our 2017 Smart ignition key would not rotate to the off position and was stuck in the accessory position.  This occurred after the car sat for a couple weeks and battery voltage was too low to start.  We bought a new group 47 battery and the car is starting, holding a charge and running well but the ignition key could not be removed.  For a couple days I disconnected the battery ground to save the battery.

Today, I dug into the ignition switch assembly, first by removing the upper and lower shrouds covering the steering column.  There are two torx T20 screws holding each cover.  In the first picture below, you can see the exposed blue locking solenoid which is just below the ignition switch and also held by two T20 screws.  The black rubber cap is a dust cover on the back side of the solenoid plunger.  The material was easily pliable, sticky and "held" the solenoid plunger from operating.  I made a red replacement cap from what I think was an old air line protective boot I had.

Everything went back together easily and life is good again.

Couple side notes/thoughts:

  • Our shifter was also temporarily locked in Park.  There's a yellow release lever buried under the shifter which will unlock it.  Not sure why it locked (or wouldn't unlock) but it was definitely related to the battery low voltage problem.  Others have had this issue too.
  • I suspect the solenoid's black rubber boot was a problem waiting to happen and was pushed over the edge by the weak battery.  I'm guessing the low voltage caused an increase in current with resulting increase in IxR heating of the solenoid coil and further softening of the black boot.
  • The Smart battery is NOT a common size and nearest battery was a couple hundred miles away or a few days by mail.  The group 47 battery (flooded lead acid, not AGM) is very close to the same size.  A feature of the Smart's Italian made battery is it has a vent port which attaches to a tube that runs to the battery tray.  I guess this keep any venting electrolyte gas/liquid from collecting on the battery top and accelerating terminal corrosion.  Nice but not necessary, in my opinion.

 

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IMG_3644B.jpg

IMG_3652B.jpg

IMG_3217a.jpg.c718bc170600aa5ce52e515511d83cb7.jpg

Jim & Wilma

2006 Travel Supreme 36RLQSO

2009 Volvo VNL730, D13, I-shift, ET, Herrin Hauler bed, "Ruby"

2017 Smart

Class of 2017

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Italian battery?  That says a lot, to the owner of a Moto Guzzi.  Italians are great artists and wine makes, not electricians.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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  • 11 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
5 minutes ago, Hewhoknowslittle said:

When mine failed I completely removed it. 
This will never happen to me again. 
No codes or lights on on the dash. 

Yep, if ours had failed, I’d have done the same and not thought twice. Somehow we drove cars in the old days without all the automatic “features” and survived.  Not sure why the key removal lock “feature” even exists; suppose it’s to make sure transmission is in Park. I suspect you’ll be ok young man.

IMG_3217a.jpg.c718bc170600aa5ce52e515511d83cb7.jpg

Jim & Wilma

2006 Travel Supreme 36RLQSO

2009 Volvo VNL730, D13, I-shift, ET, Herrin Hauler bed, "Ruby"

2017 Smart

Class of 2017

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have a different problem, of my own making, I have misplaced my only key for my 2008 Smart. I loaded it on the flatbed and then drove a different truck to our new home in Arizona, from Vermont.  I thought I left the key in one of the 3 vehicles in Vermont but now I cant find it! Any way to do away with the stupid chip key and just put in a different switch I may have to lift the car off the trailer next week when I get it to Arizona because I need the trailer.

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Lance, I'm not aware of any other system that will interface with your smart. A 2008 key will need to come out of Germany and be ordered thru a dealer. When it gets here, the dealer can program it or you can find someone with a Snap-on scanner. They can also program it for you.

2017 Kenworth T680
2015 DRV 38RSSA Elite Suites
2016 Smart Prime

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Thanks!  I will add a T20 torx to the car's took kit.  Might even remove the solenoid as a preemptive measure.  Had read on the internet that the sticking key is a common problem but none of them tied it to the rubber boot as a cause.

Chet & Deb
'01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart
'19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel
2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed
Retired CWO4, USN and federal service
Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist

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  • 8 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Well, it seems with our maiden trip to the WCR completed and our confidence increasing, we are in the hunt for a Smart(driving the Volvo to Walmart isnt the fun I prefer, although very doable).  Found a nice low mileage 453(not easily done right now) and so ready to order some ramps in anticipation.  I have found the more popular are Discount Ramps 12'L X 12"W folding ramps.  Now to determine the better approach to tying it down.  We will have alloy wheels so not sure if baskets or through straps are better.  Any opinions out there?  I will be making my own chocks to add the ratchets to.

Marcel

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5 hours ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

I use over the wheel straps. The baskets can give you issues with the brake lines, and I have never liked putting straps thru the wheel. There is too much of a probability that the straps will rub the finish on the wheel.

Same here.  Did the "through the wheel" thing for a while and often the wheel would turn just a bit and loosen the strap.  Since going over the tire with a single strap, we've never had a strap loosen.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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Here's an example.  https://www.uscargocontrol.com/products/car-carrier-strap-w-wire-hooks-adj-rubber-blocks-ratchet

I used separate straps and ratchets, mounting the ratchet to the bed, and storing the straps in the tool box when not in use.  The rubber blocks make the strap quite secure.  In fact, I'm making up a similar arrangement for the wife's Spyder.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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Thank you so much for this post! I was able to remove the solenoid at work so I could power down my 2017 Smart EV so that I had enough range to make it home since it was draining my high voltage battery fast. Wasn't able to find a new battery anywhere except for Mercedes. The solenoid was red hot and completely failed after installing the new battery so I removed it.

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I used Mac's Custom Tie Downs.

https://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/collections/straps/products/tire-block-strap-121810?variant=32324062871626

I got 2"X 7' straps...didn't need 10' for the Smart. Also got the twisted S hook on the one end. Call them and tell them what length you want. Single strap with 3 rubber blocks using their lashing winches. If you get the lashing winches like we did you need to specify right and left. They recommend one foot of strap to wrap on the winch. They had a pretty long lead time when we ordered. If you're willing to pay for expedited shipping you go to the front of the line. They are great guys and have nice stuff. I believe Georgia Hybrid uses the same ones.

Edited by unimog1300
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  • 2 months later...
On 9/20/2020 at 2:03 PM, Jim & Wilma said:

If you have a Smart 453, you might want to take a minute and read this - may come in handy some day.

Our 2017 Smart ignition key would not rotate to the off position and was stuck in the accessory position.  This occurred after the car sat for a couple weeks and battery voltage was too low to start.  We bought a new group 47 battery and the car is starting, holding a charge and running well but the ignition key could not be removed.  For a couple days I disconnected the battery ground to save the battery.

Today, I dug into the ignition switch assembly, first by removing the upper and lower shrouds covering the steering column.  There are two torx T20 screws holding each cover.  In the first picture below, you can see the exposed blue locking solenoid which is just below the ignition switch and also held by two T20 screws.  The black rubber cap is a dust cover on the back side of the solenoid plunger.  The material was easily pliable, sticky and "held" the solenoid plunger from operating.  I made a red replacement cap from what I think was an old air line protective boot I had.

Everything went back together easily and life is good again.

Couple side notes/thoughts:

  • Our shifter was also temporarily locked in Park.  There's a yellow release lever buried under the shifter which will unlock it.  Not sure why it locked (or wouldn't unlock) but it was definitely related to the battery low voltage problem.  Others have had this issue too.
  • I suspect the solenoid's black rubber boot was a problem waiting to happen and was pushed over the edge by the weak battery.  I'm guessing the low voltage caused an increase in current with resulting increase in IxR heating of the solenoid coil and further softening of the black boot.
  • The Smart battery is NOT a common size and nearest battery was a couple hundred miles away or a few days by mail.  The group 47 battery (flooded lead acid, not AGM) is very close to the same size.  A feature of the Smart's Italian made battery is it has a vent port which attaches to a tube that runs to the battery tray.  I guess this keep any venting electrolyte gas/liquid from collecting on the battery top and accelerating terminal corrosion.  Nice but not necessary, in my opinion.

 

IMG_3641B.jpg

IMG_3644B.jpg

IMG_3652B.jpg

 

On 9/20/2020 at 2:03 PM, Jim & Wilma said:

If you have a Smart 453, you might want to take a minute and read this - may come in handy some day.

Our 2017 Smart ignition key would not rotate to the off position and was stuck in the accessory position.  This occurred after the car sat for a couple weeks and battery voltage was too low to start.  We bought a new group 47 battery and the car is starting, holding a charge and running well but the ignition key could not be removed.  For a couple days I disconnected the battery ground to save the battery.

Today, I dug into the ignition switch assembly, first by removing the upper and lower shrouds covering the steering column.  There are two torx T20 screws holding each cover.  In the first picture below, you can see the exposed blue locking solenoid which is just below the ignition switch and also held by two T20 screws.  The black rubber cap is a dust cover on the back side of the solenoid plunger.  The material was easily pliable, sticky and "held" the solenoid plunger from operating.  I made a red replacement cap from what I think was an old air line protective boot I had.

Everything went back together easily and life is good again.

Couple side notes/thoughts:

  • Our shifter was also temporarily locked in Park.  There's a yellow release lever buried under the shifter which will unlock it.  Not sure why it locked (or wouldn't unlock) but it was definitely related to the battery low voltage problem.  Others have had this issue too.
  • I suspect the solenoid's black rubber boot was a problem waiting to happen and was pushed over the edge by the weak battery.  I'm guessing the low voltage caused an increase in current with resulting increase in IxR heating of the solenoid coil and further softening of the black boot.
  • The Smart battery is NOT a common size and nearest battery was a couple hundred miles away or a few days by mail.  The group 47 battery (flooded lead acid, not AGM) is very close to the same size.  A feature of the Smart's Italian made battery is it has a vent port which attaches to a tube that runs to the battery tray.  I guess this keep any venting electrolyte gas/liquid from collecting on the battery top and accelerating terminal corrosion.  Nice but not necessary, in my opinion.

 

IMG_3641B.jpg

IMG_3644B.jpg

IMG_3652B.jpg

Thank you for this post.  This exact thing has just happened to mine 

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1 hour ago, JenA said:

 

Thank you for this post.  This exact thing has just happened to mine 

Jen, glad this helped you. I know folks that have taken their car to the dealer and waited weeks for replacement “ignition parts” from Europe. 

IMG_3217a.jpg.c718bc170600aa5ce52e515511d83cb7.jpg

Jim & Wilma

2006 Travel Supreme 36RLQSO

2009 Volvo VNL730, D13, I-shift, ET, Herrin Hauler bed, "Ruby"

2017 Smart

Class of 2017

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Jim, thank you for this perfect post, it's exactly what I need to see; having the exact same problem with the stuck key and had an issue with the auxiliary battery about a year ago (has been replaced since then). I am having a struggle with removing the shrouds though, all four screws are off but it feels like I'm going to break something if I use any more force trying to pry the shrouds apart and from the steering column. Could you share some motivation, should I just muscle them apart or am I missing something. Thank you, Matthew.

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Matthew, the shrouds will pull off with a little encouragement. Forget which one comes off first, that may be your issue. The plastic will give quite a bit.  They’re harder to get back in place but be persistent. If off position a little, make sure steering wheel rotation is not restricted in movement in any way. 
 

Good luck. 

IMG_3217a.jpg.c718bc170600aa5ce52e515511d83cb7.jpg

Jim & Wilma

2006 Travel Supreme 36RLQSO

2009 Volvo VNL730, D13, I-shift, ET, Herrin Hauler bed, "Ruby"

2017 Smart

Class of 2017

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On 9/26/2022 at 8:48 PM, Jim & Wilma said:

Matthew, the shrouds will pull off with a little encouragement. Forget which one comes off first, that may be your issue. The plastic will give quite a bit.  They’re harder to get back in place but be persistent. If off position a little, make sure steering wheel rotation is not restricted in movement in any way. 
 

Good luck. 

On 9/26/2022 at 8:48 PM, Jim & Wilma said:

 

On 9/26/2022 at 8:48 PM, Jim & Wilma said:

 

Thank you so much for the response Jim, got them apart! With a little help of some sheer desperation. I removed the rubber pieces, one covering the entire solenoids plunger and the other rubber piece inserted inside the cylinder at the bottom and was able to remove my key. I drove it fine for a week then today the ignition wont turn to even accesory position. Do you think this means the solenoid is kaput? Main battery is fully charged, auxiliary battery seems fine since the car unlocks and internal lighting operates, driving last night though an off putting spoiled smell was coming into the cabin in an eb and flow, not continuously. I have a sneaking suspicion it is the auxiliary battery. Smelt familiar to when the auxiliary battery went out before.

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12 hours ago, King_Ikaika9 said:

Thank you so much for the response Jim, got them apart! With a little help of some sheer desperation. 

Sounds like you have a smart EV and I’m not familiar with differences that might be associated with the ignition vs a smart ICE. I’m guessing your solenoid is again the culprit and removal may be an option, however, if it’s an EV and you’re getting some odd smells, I’d seek out a Mercedes dealer that services smart cars.

IMG_3217a.jpg.c718bc170600aa5ce52e515511d83cb7.jpg

Jim & Wilma

2006 Travel Supreme 36RLQSO

2009 Volvo VNL730, D13, I-shift, ET, Herrin Hauler bed, "Ruby"

2017 Smart

Class of 2017

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