alan0043 Posted July 27, 2020 Report Share Posted July 27, 2020 Hi Everyone, I have a couple of questions for replacing the front shocks on a Gen 2. The front axle does have air bags. I have already done the rear shocks. What a pain in the a$$ to do. Iam looking for any tips from the DIY'ers. I know pre-soaking the bolts can help. I do have an impact gun (1/2" drive). Does the truck need to have more ground clearness for better access ? Looking for tips to help with this job. Al Quote 2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger " Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood " 2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darryl&Rita Posted July 27, 2020 Report Share Posted July 27, 2020 Depending on the size of your belt, ramps under the front tires will help. A handy list of expletives comes in handy, too. Quote I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication 2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet 2007 32.5' Fleetwood QuantumPlease e-mail us here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vegas Teacher Posted July 27, 2020 Report Share Posted July 27, 2020 I just got an estimate from my mechanic in Vegas. Front shock O.T.D. with tax 483.00 and I don't have to do a thing, or worry about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sculptor Posted July 28, 2020 Report Share Posted July 28, 2020 The front shocks were one of my first DIY jobs. I removed the bumper cap extensions and turned the wheels all the way out. This gave me plenty of room. On the right front lower, I tried a breaker bar and a pipe, but couldn’t get it loose. Not sure if I didn’t have the lift strength? I tried whittling away the shock with a low duty plasma cutter, slow work. Then I tried a sawzall with a hard all metal blade. It dulls on the shock pole but cuts everything else. I got it out in little pieces and it was slow. More blaster or liquid wrench and soak time might have helped. The casting on the inboard side where the nut is designed, is cup shaped, and I believe it collects the saltwater from the road. I found out afterward the casting is shaped to accept the factory nut. I could not figure out why I could not get a wrench on it. Time = a weekend. Left side = 10 minutes. 😁 Quote Kevin and June 2013 Volvo VNL 730 D13 Eco-Torque @ 425 Ratio 2.47 2014 DRV 36TKSB3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan0043 Posted July 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2020 2 hours ago, Sculptor said: The front shocks were one of my first DIY jobs. I removed the bumper cap extensions and turned the wheels all the way out. This gave me plenty of room. On the right front lower, I tried a breaker bar and a pipe, but couldn’t get it loose. Not sure if I didn’t have the lift strength? I tried whittling away the shock with a low duty plasma cutter, slow work. Then I tried a sawzall with a hard all metal blade. It dulls on the shock pole but cuts everything else. I got it out in little pieces and it was slow. More blaster or liquid wrench and soak time might have helped. The casting on the inboard side where the nut is designed, is cup shaped, and I believe it collects the saltwater from the road. I found out afterward the casting is shaped to accept the factory nut. I could not figure out why I could not get a wrench on it. Time = a weekend. Left side = 10 minutes. 😁 Hello Sculptor, Thank you for the tips. I remember that I had to cut every bottom bolt off to remove the rear shocks. But before I could get the cut-off wheel between the shock and the mounting bracket I need to get the bottom of the air bag out of the way. I am still tandem. The top bolts where no problem. To bad Volvo didn't use some anti-seize on the bottom bolt shank. Life would have been good. lol. Al Quote 2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger " Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood " 2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ras32758 Posted August 31, 2020 Report Share Posted August 31, 2020 Alan, I have a 1999 vnl 610. Front shocks were a piece of cake. Ridgid 18 volt 1/2 impact wrench with 9ah battery and anti sieze applied by the last mechanic. On the rear shocks I could not access the back side of the upper shock mount except with my fingers. Not sure what the mechanic did when I last had all four shocks replaced. Don't know if that top mount used to be a stud that has since been cut off and replaced with a nut and a bolt. Service manual picture seems to indicate that a nut and bolt was used. Prior to installing the deck plate on the truck access would have easy. I think I could wedge a tool on the back side of the shock mount to get the bolt out but am not certain that I can manipulate the nut with my fingers to get it reinstalled. I am able to re-tighten the nut and bolt so that was good. Looking for more insight before I remove the upper bolt and find that I cannot reinstall it. What did you end up doing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan0043 Posted August 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2020 12 hours ago, ras32758 said: Alan, I have a 1999 vnl 610. Front shocks were a piece of cake. Ridgid 18 volt 1/2 impact wrench with 9ah battery and anti sieze applied by the last mechanic. On the rear shocks I could not access the back side of the upper shock mount except with my fingers. Not sure what the mechanic did when I last had all four shocks replaced. Don't know if that top mount used to be a stud that has since been cut off and replaced with a nut and a bolt. Service manual picture seems to indicate that a nut and bolt was used. Prior to installing the deck plate on the truck access would have easy. I think I could wedge a tool on the back side of the shock mount to get the bolt out but am not certain that I can manipulate the nut with my fingers to get it reinstalled. I am able to re-tighten the nut and bolt so that was good. Looking for more insight before I remove the upper bolt and find that I cannot reinstall it. What did you end up doing? Hi ras, Thank you for your reply. Right now I am still dragging my butt to do the job. Just the other day I sprayed the front bolts with PB Blaster. Right now I have a few home projects to finish. You know, it's always something. 😄 Thanks for the tips. Alan Quote 2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger " Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood " 2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ras32758 Posted August 31, 2020 Report Share Posted August 31, 2020 Alan, What was your experience with the rear shocks? I am curious how you were able to manipulate the nut and bolt at the rear upper shock mount. Roy Alan, I have a 1999 vnl 610. Front shocks were a piece of cake. Ridgid 18 volt 1/2 impact wrench with 9ah battery and anti sieze applied by the last mechanic. On the rear shocks I could not access the back side of the upper shock mount except with my fingers. Not sure what the mechanic did when I last had all four shocks replaced. Don't know if that top mount used to be a stud that has since been cut off and replaced with a nut and a bolt. Service manual picture seems to indicate that a nut and bolt was used. Prior to installing the deck plate on the truck access would have easy. I think I could wedge a tool on the back side of the shock mount to get the bolt out but am not certain that I can manipulate the nut with my fingers to get it reinstalled. I am able to re-tighten the nut and bolt so that was good. Looking for more insight before I remove the upper bolt and find that I cannot reinstall it. What did you end up doing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Av8r3400 Posted September 1, 2020 Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 I had mine done at the dealer with new bags and shocks all the way around. $1500. Worth it to avoid the aggravation! Quote Av8r34002012 Volvo VNL 730 D13 iShift & 2021 Grand Design Momentum 397TH I'd rather die trying to live - Than live trying not to die. -Leonard Perry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
castlewood57 Posted September 1, 2020 Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 I have to admit I cheated, I found someone who really loves working on trucks. He built angle frames for the 5th wheel so its easily removable with just 4 bolts, since the truck is still needed to be used with a commercial hitch for hauling hay, and installed rear and front shocks all for just 523. I thought it was a decent deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted September 1, 2020 Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 Haven't done the front end schocks yet but i did the cab schocks. Had to use the blue cresent. Quote 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted September 1, 2020 Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 On 8/31/2020 at 10:48 AM, ras32758 said: Alan, What was your experience with the rear shocks? I am curious how you were able to manipulate the nut and bolt at the rear upper shock mount. Roy Alan, I have a 1999 vnl 610. Front shocks were a piece of cake. Ridgid 18 volt 1/2 impact wrench with 9ah battery and anti sieze applied by the last mechanic. On the rear shocks I could not access the back side of the upper shock mount except with my fingers. Not sure what the mechanic did when I last had all four shocks replaced. Don't know if that top mount used to be a stud that has since been cut off and replaced with a nut and a bolt. Service manual picture seems to indicate that a nut and bolt was used. Prior to installing the deck plate on the truck access would have easy. I think I could wedge a tool on the back side of the shock mount to get the bolt out but am not certain that I can manipulate the nut with my fingers to get it reinstalled. I am able to re-tighten the nut and bolt so that was good. Looking for more insight before I remove the upper bolt and find that I cannot reinstall it. What did you end up doing? We have a "98 Volvo 610 as well. The top mount on mine is a bolt. 11mm if I remember right. I recently had to remove one and used a 3/8 battery impact on the shock side and reached a wrench in from the other side for the nut. The upper nut is in a U shaped bracket that the bolt goes thru after the shock. Quote Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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