30 amp Pedestal Surge Protection Brands?

[Cotreker]

Doing a little homework on pedestal surge protection devices 30amp.  Most of you are most likely using 50 amp units but the companies most likely offer both.  I am interested in the unit being capable of protecting for overload / underload and correct wiring at the pedestal.  Which brand should I purchase?  And do any of you connect this to your generator when you are boondocking, ie Honda 3000?.

Dennis

[hemsteadc]

To a generator, no.  But I guess there's nothing wrong with the 'belt and suspenders' approach.

[Kirk W]

I'm not sure why you would think we mostly use 50a models but was one who has used both versions I assure you that there are plenty of us who use a 30a device as well. I have used the Surge Guard from Southwire. I chose it because I got a bargain price on a nearly new one but the Progressive Ind. EMS unit also does the job well and offers pretty much the same protections. 

[Zulu]

Typically, folks rely on one of these brands:

Progressive Industries -- the "crowd favorite" as Progressive had a limited lifetime warranty from the get go. Progressive units offer comprehensive electrical fault protection (miswiring, open neutral, etc). People tell stories on how they were able to get new units after their Progressive gave up the ghost. Recently, Progressive was bought out and tightened up their warranty requirements.

Surge Guard -- offers a product line very similar to Progressive's. Like Progressive, Surge Guard was acquired by another company (Southwire). However, unlike Progressive, Southwire increased their warranty protection and now offer limited lifetime warranties, just like Progressive. Southwire also offers a voltage regulator ("autoformer").

Hughes Autoformer -- an autoformer (or voltage regulator) is a must for me as it protects against pedestal under voltage, a common campground issue. Hughes new autoformers offer electrical fault protection, but I'd rather use a separate Progressive or Surge Guard unit. Hughes offers little in the way of what exactly is their fault protection, and furthermore I don't believe a Hughes autoformer will automatically disconnect if it detects a serious electrical fault -- Progressive and Surge Guard units will disconnect.

Finally, be wary of the lower-priced Progressive and Surge Guard units as they often don't offer full electrical fault protection nor will they all disconnect your RV from a power pedestal in case of a serious fault. Some of these cheaper units just "indicate" that there is a fault.

[bobsallyh]

Cotreker, I hard wired mine in the unit, so, no matter what power source I use, it does run thru the Surgeguard.

[trailertraveler]

3 hours ago, Cotreker said:

do any of you connect this to your generator when you are boondocking, ie Honda 3000?.

If you get an EMS system that not only detects faults but will not pass power if a fault is detected, they will not work with some small generators. There have been discussions about an easy fix for this and whether it is a good idea to do the fix or not. 

[oldjohnt]

Regardless of the brand you choose, if you hard wire it inside the RV it reduces the chance of theft PLUS can offer protection regardless if you're connected to shore power or a genset provided its wired accordingly. Many don't use such a device when running off their genset but it shouldnt hurt (see below). 

NOTE some makes and models of Gensets are purposely configured with a Floating Neutral while others are Bonded. If floating a protection unit will throw an error code which is easily corrected by creating a Neutral Ground bond.  

John T

[Kirk W]

5 hours ago, Cotreker said:

And do any of you connect this to your generator when you are boondocking, ie Honda 3000?.

I failed to respond to that part of the post. If you wish to use it with the Honda you will need to use a jumper to bond the neutral and the ground together, as they are from shore power. You can either make one or you can buy a ready made ne from Amazon for less than $10. Just plug the device into one of the 15A outlets and your line protector or the RV plug is put into the 30a outlet on the Honda.

                               

   

[oldjohnt]

1 hour ago, Kirk W said:

If you wish to use it with the Honda you will need to use a jumper to bond the neutral and the ground together

NOTE:  "Some" (but NOT all, see the link below) Honda models come from the factory with Floating Neutrals and if using one of those an easily created Neutral Ground Bond will prevent a protection device from throwing an error signal.

 I make my own Bonding Plugs by using a 15 Amp NEMA 5-15P Plug with a short jumper wire connected from the Neutral to the Ground terminals, cheap as dirt and a piece of cake...…...I prefer a Hard Wired Neutral/Ground Bond instead of a plug if the genset is always being used that way.

NOTE There should be ONLY ONE Neutral/Ground Bond. That's why in the RV AC Distribution Panel separate insulated and isolated (NON Bonded) Neutral and Ground Busses are required since the single Bond was already created in the parks distribution system. 

I have a PDF file showing which Honda and other generators have Bonded and which have Floating Neutrals, here's a link (NO warranty to its accuracy, its NOT my data)

http://www.generlink.com/files/123356851.pdf

NOTE  Many onboard from the factory built in RV Gensets such as Onans are equipped with Bonded Neutrals. However, subject to how you use a genset, a Floating may be required in other cases.

John T

[Kirk W]

11 hours ago, oldjohnt said:

NOTE:  "Some" (but NOT all, see the link below) Honda models come from the factory with Floating Neutrals

If you read his post, he has a Honda 3000 and those do not have a bonded neutral/ground. 

[oldjohnt]

That's (floating Neutral) what the Generlink data indicates. The PDF file I posted states in part (see below) the Honda EM 3000 (assuming that's his exact model and the Generlink data is correct ??) indeed uses a Floating Neutral. 

If that's the case and if he wants to use it exclusively with his RV, I suggest he hard wire a Neutral/Ground Bond. One purpose of creating a Neutral/Ground Bond (for those gensets utilizing a Floating Neutral) is to prevent an EMS or other protection device from throwing an Error Code...

HOWEVER, if he might use it as a home emergency Generator (subject to configuration) and wants to keep his options open I would just go with a temporary cheap n easy Bonding Plug using a typical residential NEMA 5-15P Plug with a wire to connect the Neutral and Ground terminals together. Then simply unplug if used for example at home ifffffffffff configured and described as below.

NOTE:  If used as a home emergency backup Generator with Neutrals NOT switched (Utility Neutral attached to Genset Neutral) IT SHOULD REMAIN CONFIGURED WITH A FLOATING NEUTRAL  !!!!!!!

 I think we have him pretty well covered, now its HIS decision...

 

John T

Honda

EM3000

2,800

L14-20

Yes

Floating Neutral

Edited February 5, 2020 by oldjohnt

[oldjohnt]

Dennis, Getting back to your original question, for what its worth ??? Here's a review of surge protectors I found interesting. I'm ONLY the messenger remember, no comments otherwise.

https://www.rvweb.net/best-rv-surge-protectors-reviewed/

Hope this helps

John T

[filthy-beast]

I've had an 30amp EMS from Progressive hardwired with remote display and the portable 50amp unit from Progressive. Both have saved my AC units from low voltage by shutting down. 

With a portable you can check for a bad pedestal before parking. Hardwired is very nice since you can see and monitor power via the remote display inside the camper.

Spend the extra money to get an EMS.

 

[mptjelgin]

1 hour ago, oldjohnt said:

Dennis, Getting back to your original question, for what its worth ??? Here's a review of surge protectors I found interesting. I'm ONLY the messenger remember, no comments otherwise.

https://www.rvweb.net/best-rv-surge-protectors-reviewed/

Hope this helps

John T

I wonder if the person who wrote that article actually used or reviewed any of the products.  I think not, as the single "con" noted for the hard-wired Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C unit is "Tight connection, which sometimes causes issues when plugging it in".  Since the hard-wired unit is installed somewhere in the interior of the RV and uses the original power cord, how can this alleged tight connection cause issues when plugging it in?

One of the other units is dinged for not having a "fireproof feature".  Just what in the heck is that??

I'm seeing more and more of these "articles" which are simply mash-ups of other articles and reviews, and intended primarily to get hits and drive traffic to the affiliated sellers, who are linked in the article ("Get price on Amazon").   I suppose you get what you pay for with an article like this. 

[TXiceman]

We have had a 50 amp Surge guard and a 50 amp PI, both at the pedestal units.  Now we have a hard wired PI 50 amp unit.  I much prefer the had wired PI unit and the warrant and service is great.  

Ken

[oldjohnt]

2 hours ago, mptjelgin said:

I suppose you get what you pay for with an article like this. 

 That's about like You Tube "reviews" you can find one praising a certain product while another condemns the very same one lol. Opinions and anecdotal evidence orrrrrrrrrr scams to promote a vendor or website, is NOT the same as pure technical in depth accurate "reviews".

John T

[Ray,IN]

Unless it is an organized, standardized test, like an ISO test, it is purely opinion. I investigate the best I can at the time, often asking advice from others, then make my purchase based on my opinion.

Edited February 6, 2020 by Ray,IN

[Pat & Pete]

No opinion .

Just 9+ years of protection and boost . When I hook to a 30 amp pedestal , I use both Hughes and Progressive units .

Haven't had a problem in the many times 30 amp was the only thing available .

[Zulu]

19 minutes ago, Pat & Pete said:

Just 9+ years of protection and boost . When I hook to a 30 amp pedestal , I use both Hughes and Progressive units .

Haven't had a problem in the many times 30 amp was the only thing available .

Anecdotal.

[Pat & Pete]

13 hours ago, Zulu said:

Anecdotal.

I suppose you want the receipts to prove it actually happened . LOL

[Zulu]

23 minutes ago, Pat & Pete said:

I suppose you want the receipts to prove it actually happened . LOL

No, anecdotal means based on subjective personal experience, not on any sort of objective data.

[Pat & Pete]

18 minutes ago, Zulu said:

No, anecdotal means based on subjective personal experience, not on any sort of objective data.

an·ec·do·tal

/ˌanəkˈdōdl/

adjective

 

1. (of an account) not necessarily true or reliable, because based on personal accounts rather than facts or research.

    

   Gee , maybe I'm lying and not objective .

   Nah . What I said really has happened . How ever you want to describe it , it is fact . 

[Zulu]

44 minutes ago, Pat & Pete said:

Gee , maybe I'm lying and not objective .

Nah . What I said really has happened . How ever you want to describe it , it is fact . 

I have no doubt it happened, but so what?

[Pat & Pete]

32 minutes ago, Zulu said:

I have no doubt it happened, but so what?

Much like your response to my offering .

[Zulu]

5 hours ago, Pat & Pete said:

Much like your response to my offering .

P&P,  didn't mean to offend, just following up on oldjohnt's "opinions and anecdotal evidence" statement.