Norcold 1200 Interior light

[Ray,IN]

PatandPete, I reread what I previously said about the switch and I was/am correct. You said the same thing on 1/20. The switch is open when depressed-will not pass voltage, otherwise the light would remain on when the door is closed.

Someone said the switch must have two wires, correct both are the same positive wire/ circuit the switch breaks, the negative is elsewhere.

The service manual staffnon linked to is not for a model 1200 series, but  rather for N models.

Service manual for Norcold 12xx series is here: http://bryantrv.com/docs.html pages 55-57 are wiring diagrams.

Your units serial# determines which electrical schematic to use.

Edited January 22, 2020 by Ray,IN

[staffnon]

Well slap me silly, I again will stand in the corner with a dunce cap on.  NOT, still don't recall reading, Yes they listed the model 1200 series but not the exact ser #.  Big difference in trying to help when a NORCOLD model + ser # is a NORCOLD model + ser# is a NORCOLD model + ser#. 

OH WELL!! it all rolls down hill. But still waiting for the OP to say what NORCOLD has to say and there recommendation and possible  troubleshooting PDF and schematics.  Straight from the horses mouth.  

[oldjohnt]

It now appears ONLY AFTER we know the right unit, right seral number, wiring diagram and some troubleshooting feedback and results might we be able to help. Until then no use in more "guessing" lol

 John T

[Pat & Pete]

I'm trying to contact Norcold , but , no luck , so far . 

In the mean time , I tested the main board door connections voltage with the doors closed : 4.95 volts . 
And , from that^ point , I tested continuity of the switch circuit : that 'circuit' passes 13.6 volts and sounds the continuity beeper loud and clear .

[Ray,IN]

On 1/22/2020 at 1:49 PM, staffnon said:

Well slap me silly, I again will stand in the corner with a dunce cap on.  NOT, still don't recall reading, Yes they listed the model 1200 series but not the exact ser #.  Big difference in trying to help when a NORCOLD model + ser # is a NORCOLD model + ser# is a NORCOLD model + ser#. 

OH WELL!! it all rolls down hill. But still waiting for the OP to say what NORCOLD has to say and there recommendation and possible  troubleshooting PDF and schematics.  Straight from the horses mouth.  

Don't be concerned, been there-done that several times.

[staffnon]

•  

You typed

I'm trying to contact Norcold , but , no luck , so far . 

 

norcold.com

on web site see find a dealer and fill in blanks and hit search.

it will probably take you to theford web site, they work with norcold.

ph# 1-800-543-1219  probably normal working hours. they are in Michigan

[Pat & Pete]

28 minutes ago, staffnon said:

•  

You typed

I'm trying to contact Norcold , but , no luck , so far . 

 

norcold.com

on web site see find a dealer and fill in blanks and hit search.

it will probably take you to theford web site, they work with norcold.

ph# 1-800-543-1219  probably normal working hours. they are in Michigan

So , you're saying Norcold doesn't answer their own door ? 

What kind of business is that ? 

[Ray,IN]

Thetford purchased Norcold in 1997. That may make a difference in how the phones are answered.

Here is the Norcold dealer locator webpage.https://www.thetford.com/customer-support/dealer-and-service-center-locator/

Edited January 27, 2020 by Ray,IN

[Pat & Pete]

I just sent Norcold a message through their site : https://norcold.com/contact/

It seems they do answer their own door . The message I rec'd after hitting the send button :

"THANK YOU! YOUR REQUEST HAS BEEN SENT AND WILL BE PROCESSED SHORTLY."

Now to wait .

[staffnon]

WOW!!!!!!! I said this??? NOT NOTNOT

So , you're saying Norcold doesn't answer their own door ? 

What kind of business is that ? 

All I did was list info on there WEB page. I gave the WEB page info and their phone number.  I did not give their exact address so how can you say I mentioned the door???.

BUT under theford  WEB page and the dealer location. Why have you maybe/alleged not been able to contact one  dealer on their page??.  And yet you somehow state what I said without proof.  All I did was list info off of their page. 

So still waiting for what Norcold/theford  said via their dealer/service centers.  You have time to tell me what I said? but not what a dealer/service center said  

And when you do finally contact a dealer/service center please give their name and address and if text copy/paste on to your answer so we may read it word for word, exactly what norcold/theford said.

Then this correct info can be added to RV  Network for others to read and possible use their schematic and PDF troubleshooting info. So that other RV'er can use this helpful info.  

Again thank you (in advance) for your documented info from  Norcold on your Ref. 

So that other RV'er can use this helpful info.  

Edited January 27, 2020 by staffnon
added sentence

[Pat & Pete]

1 hour ago, staffnon said:

WOW!!!!!!! I said this??? NOT NOTNOT

So , you're saying Norcold doesn't answer their own door ? 

What kind of business is that ? 

 

Maybe you've had a cup too much coffee this morning .

If you read what I wrote , you'll notice that I asked questions . I made no statement . The door reference is a paraphrase . 

Anyway , I rec'd a response from Thetford/Norcold : 

" > Hello,
> I would look at the mounting to see if any wires have become loose.
> Customer Service
> Thetford Corp/Norcold Inc"

I responded :

"Good Morning ... ,
I've checked all connections as stated . All are clean and tight .
What might cause only the light to not work ?
Thank You . :)"

I'm waiting for another/next answer . 

Edited January 27, 2020 by Pat & Pete

[Pat & Pete]

Norcolds response to that^ : 

"Hello,

I would check your DC voltage and batteries. Other than that, I would refer you to a service center."

I wrote back : 

"OK  ,

DC voltage varies close to 13 volts and the battery ( a single 8D 12 Volt ) is functioning as it should .

Thank you for your efforts . :)"

I'm not keen on playing Q&A with a dealer/service center . That generally ends up costing way too many dollars .

Considering my options ...

[Ray,IN]

Pete, keep in mind, whoever responds to your email questions is simply reading from their furnished list of standard replies.They probably know less than anyone here.

[Pat & Pete]

4 hours ago, Ray,IN said:

Pete, keep in mind, whoever responds to your email questions is simply reading from their furnished list of standard replies.They probably know less than anyone here.

That is true , Ray . 

It would be nice if they had someone that actually knows something respond . 

Scouring the internet , I haven't found a single post similar to my problem . All references to lights are associated with other problems , which I don't have .

[Ray,IN]

From what little I remember about reading electrical schematics, for serial#832171 and above, the door switch circuit connects to pins 4 and 5 on the main board(figure 50); HOWEVER, figure 49 shows the door switches connected to the eyebrow board??? Figure 48(below 832171) appears incomplete for the light switches. Sorry, It's been too many years for me to better interpret those schematics. Perhaps some of the real electricians here would take a look.

Were this mine I would have the main board tested, I seem to remember Norcold has a specific testing apparatus, hopefully a nearby service center has the equipment to test your board.

 

[Kirk W]

9 hours ago, Ray,IN said:

Were this mine I would have the main board tested, I seem to remember Norcold has a specific testing apparatus, hopefully a nearby service center has the equipment to test your board.

In my experience, many of those who claim to be RV technicians are actually just parts changers. They just swap parts until something seem to work. Often they have very little by way of specialized test equipment and don't always know how to use what they do have available. I believe that most independant RV technicians are better qualified than the typical tech at Camping World or most large dealerships. 

[Ray,IN]

15 hours ago, Kirk W said:

In my experience, many of those who claim to be RV technicians are actually just parts changers. They just swap parts until something seem to work. Often they have very little by way of specialized test equipment and don't always know how to use what they do have available. I believe that most independant RV technicians are better qualified than the typical tech at Camping World or most large dealerships. 

Agreed.

[Pat & Pete]

I went through the hassle of removing the cover of our Dinosaur main board . Very tight fit in our rig and requires moving/removing  other components .

I inspected the main board and found nothing amiss . No loose or dirty connections and no blown fuses ( each tested with a VOM ) . 

Looking at the 'partial' schematic , provided in the manual , the light seems to draw power from the voltage regulator on the eyebrow board . I think that is OK , as the open door beeper works , almost too good .

Grasping at straws ... Maybe the problem is a bad/broken wire . But , how that could happen is bit of a mystery as the wiring doesn't move , other than possible vibrations from the road or maybe the opening / closing of the doors . If that's the case , I haven't found ( any ) non conducting wire(s) , yet .

 I'm considering leaving the current wiring as it is and installing a stand alone light harness . I'd use the current bulb and fixture . Install a pair of flush mount magnetic switches and hook up to a 12 volt source other than the fridge .

Just about the time I finish with that project , I'll find the original , easy as ice cream to fix , problem .

I'm still very open to any fix suggestions .

Edited January 31, 2020 by Pat & Pete

[Ray,IN]

Pete, I've ran out of straws, I  hope you find the cause.

[Pat & Pete]

14 hours ago, Ray,IN said:

Pete, I've ran out of straws, I  hope you find the cause.

Thanks , Ray .

We're using the over head fluorescent lights , just above the fridge , to see what's where inside . 

It works , but ...

I'll update this thread , once I get the light working again . 

[Pat & Pete]

Update :

There's been a new development . Now the fridge eyebrow control presents a 'Sr Op' code / alert . That's suppose to indicate a problem with the AC heater elements . They were working fine , then boom , not . I did , prior to that occurrence , replace the main board plastic cover and remove about 4 feet of wire that had 3 connectors in series , from the 12 volt positive feed . I did that because the board wasn't getting any 12 volt and I often wondered why there was so much wire and needless connectors for a single connection . I checked for any bad / loose connections . All are clean and tight . 

I just tested the elements . One is 63.7Ω . The other is 64.8Ω . Both well within the 58 - 68Ω specified range for serviceable heaters .

The manual says to replace the board . That Dinosaur board is just shy of 8 years old . I guess nothing lasts forever , but , I was hoping . 

Anyway , I unplugged the 120 power to the board and am currently running on gas only . 

And , surprise of all surprises , the interior light works like a charm with only 12 volt hooked to the board . 

Definitely a wonky board . I wonder if the warranty is still good ? LOL

[Ray,IN]

I'm happy you solved the problem, not so happy it's going to cost you. Thanks for the update.

[Pat & Pete]

Update , again : 

I just finished removing the main board . I tried an old board I had , but , that one threw every possible code , plus a dozen or so new codes it must have made up just for this occasion . LOL

After that fiasco , I reinstalled the supposed wonky Dinosaur board that I removed 10 or 15 minutes before . That< , because it , at least, allowed the fridge to cool on gas . 

Another mysterious ending was in store . I hit the ON button on the eyebrow control and wonders of wonders , the fridge is functioning completely as it was designed , including a working interior light .

Thanks for listening and participating and for offering tips and guidance to possible solutions . I do appreciate all of that< .

[rpsinc]

Ahhh, the proverbial gremlins!

[Pat & Pete]

1 hour ago, rpsinc said:

Ahhh, the proverbial gremlins!

Ha . I figure I must have scared them enough by pulling the board all the way out .

Seriously , the board likely did a total reset being completely disconnected . 

But , I'm gonna keep an eye open for any of those darn gremlins .