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Making KISS trailer light testers at ECR


sclord2002

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Guys and Gals, Carl asked me about a session at the ECR to make my KISS trailer light testers. I have ordered enough stuff to make 20 at the rally and can order more if more than 20 want to make one. The cost will be $10.00 for the parts and we should be able to discuss them and build them in about 90 minutes. I have used mine many times on mine and many other trailers. The tester is simple, safe and very useful. You can check lights and, if you have a dc clamp-on ammeter, brake  wiring and magnets. You can also check electric over hydraulic pump function. All of this can be done without connecting to your tow vehicle, since the tester receives it's power from the trailer battery . If you want to bring your own parts, you can do that but there is some economy of scale in bulk buying of the components. Please let me know if you are interested and I will be happy to bring enough components to build as many as are needed and maybe a few extras.  Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!!       Charlie Lord

Don't ever tell a soldier that he doesn't understand the cost of war.

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This should be a great project and pretty ingenious on Charlie’s part in coming up with this idea.  If you want to build one it will be $10 “ at the door” the day of the project.  If interested go ahead and post that interest here so we can get a count.  

BTW Charlie I’m in for one.😊 and thanks for helping.

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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Lance and Desert, yep...it's pretty straight forward. 1. Purchase the vehicle part of a 7way round, blade trailer connector.  2.  cut 4 lengths of 14 or 16 gauge wire, 2 lengths of 14 or 12 gauge wire.[12 to 18 inches??]   3. Label one end of the 14 or 16 gauge wire lengths as follows: TAIL AND RUNNING, LEFT TURN AND BRAKE, RIGHT TURN AND BRAKE, REVERSE LIGHTS/AUX. 4. Label one end of the remaining 14 or 16 gauge wires as BRAKES and the other wire end as 12 VOLTS.  5.  LOOK AT THE BACK OF THE VEHICLE CONNECTOR AND ATTACH THE WIRES AS FOLLOWS: ONE O'CLOCK - TAIL AND RUNNING;  THREE O'CLOCK -  LEFT TURN AND BRAKE;  5 O'CLOCK- DO NOT ATTACH A WIRE TO THIS TERMINAL;  7 O-CLOCK- one of the two larger wires- BRAKES;  9 O'CLOCK- RIGHT TURN AND BRAKE;  11  O'CLOCK; the second larger wire- 12 VOLTS.  The center terminal is REVERSE LIGHTS/AUX.  6. attach an alligator clip to the 12 VOLTS wire.  7.  Tin or attach a terminal to the other 5 wire ends. P.S.- use an analog clock to figure out the clocking of the terminals...it takes too long to use a digital clock.  Having done all this you need to verify your wire labeling and connections to the back of the recepticle. after verification of wiring, plug your trailer pigtail onto your shiny new tool and verify that the proper lights work when you clip the alligator clip to the desired wire. Lastly, be amazed if this contraption actually works.  Be aware that the turn signals won't blink, but  the filaments/led's will light up, Also know that the brakes will draw a spark when touching the 12 VOLT wire to the BRAKE wire due to the load of the magnets on the circuit [ hence the heavier wires on the 12 VOLT and BRAKE positions]. This dohickey is pretty simple but it can be very convienent as it allows you to check your lights and brake magnets without hooking up to a tow vehicle. It is safe to touch the 12 VOLT clip to any or all of the wires since we don't have a wire going to ground [think big spark/potential fire]. DO NOT ATTACH A WIRE TO THE 5 O'CLOCK [GROUND POSITION] !!!!  The brake magnets draw approximately 3 amps per magnet, so if you see it drawing 12 amps on the BRAKE wire, you can figure that all 4 magnets are working. much less amperage would suggest that one or more magnets are not working and  higher amperage may suggest partially shorted magnets/ wires. If any wires get too warm, disconnect them. You could add a fuse/circuit breaker to the 12 VOLT wire if it would make you feel better.  I hope  you will find this tool to be as useful as I have. Please let me know the results you get.  GOOD LUCK.         Charlie Lord

Edited by sclord2002
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Don't ever tell a soldier that he doesn't understand the cost of war.

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Howdy All,

The chances of me ever doing the ECR are slim to none, just to far east for me.  Is it possible to purchase one of these units and have it sent to me from someone who will be building them?

Dave

2001 Peterbilt, 379, Known As "Semi-Sane II", towing a 2014 Voltage 3818, 45 foot long toy hauler crammed full of motorcycles of all types.  Visit my photo web site where you will find thousands of photos of my motorcycle wanderings and other aspects of my life, click this link. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/

IMG_4282-600x310.jpg

 

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Way to go, Dave and Shorty...you solved that problem. I'll have enough parts for some extra "special order" testers. By the way, the ones we build at the ECR WILL have a fuse in the 12 Volt wire.  My beta test model didn't have a fuse but he new ones will. I think it will be fun, making them up at the rally.   Charlie

Edited by sclord2002

Don't ever tell a soldier that he doesn't understand the cost of war.

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6 hours ago, geodog said:

Dave,

 

   I will build one for you and ship it when we get back home

 

ShortyO

Howdy ShortyO,

Thank you Sir. I sure appreciate this let me know what it costs to include shipping and I'll make it right with you.😁

Dave

2001 Peterbilt, 379, Known As "Semi-Sane II", towing a 2014 Voltage 3818, 45 foot long toy hauler crammed full of motorcycles of all types.  Visit my photo web site where you will find thousands of photos of my motorcycle wanderings and other aspects of my life, click this link. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/

IMG_4282-600x310.jpg

 

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58 minutes ago, sclord2002 said:

Way to go, Dave and Shorty...you solved that problem. I'll have enough parts for some extra "special order" testers. By the way, the ones we build at the ECR WILL have a fuse in the 12 Volt wire.  My beta test model didn't have a fuse but he new ones will. I think it will be fun, making them up at the rally.   Charlie

Howdy sclord2002,

It's a whole lot safer for everyone involved that "I" am NOT involved in this project.  Putting me in close proximity to wires and any type of electrical power source is a guaranteed FIRE. ☹️

Dave

2001 Peterbilt, 379, Known As "Semi-Sane II", towing a 2014 Voltage 3818, 45 foot long toy hauler crammed full of motorcycles of all types.  Visit my photo web site where you will find thousands of photos of my motorcycle wanderings and other aspects of my life, click this link. http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/

IMG_4282-600x310.jpg

 

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15 hours ago, sclord2002 said:

Way to go, Dave and Shorty...you solved that problem. I'll have enough parts for some extra "special order" testers. By the way, the ones we build at the ECR WILL have a fuse in the 12 Volt wire.  My beta test model didn't have a fuse but he new ones will. I think it will be fun, making them up at the rally.   Charlie

Hi Charlie,

I can help with the "special orders". Just let me know if you need an extra pair of hands.

Al

2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger "
  Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood "
    2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog "
 

 

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Desert, my tester does not look anything like the picture you posted. The picture is way nicer and more sophisticated than mine. Mine is just a vehicle-end recepticle with wires dangling from it but it works and is KISS [keep it simple stupid], so that I can operate it. I would love to have one like the picture but wanted one that would be simple, inexpensive, useful and easy to build with rudimentary electrical knowledge.   Charlie

Don't ever tell a soldier that he doesn't understand the cost of war.

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