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Dometic fridge won't run on electric.


Kahoona

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  • 11 months later...

We will do our best to help as much as we are able. My first suggestion is that you download a copy of the Dometic service manual from Bryant RV Service. 

Looking at the schematic on page 22, there are 2 fuses on the main circuit board, 3a that supplies 12V which you have or the propane side wouldn't work either, and a 5a fuse that is for the 120V to the electric heating element. There is also a thermo-fuse (item P on the schematic) that is next to the burner area as a safety device. The fans in this model are powered by 12V, from the control circuits so it is safe to just assume that the 3a fuse is conducting electricity and the thermo-fuse prevents opening the propane valve (shown as E on the schematic) so it is pretty certain that it is good. I am assuming that those are the 3 fuses that you report as good? May I ask if you used a volt/ohm meter to verify that the 5a fuse is actually good as they do occasionally fail and yet look to be good? Have you checked the heating elements with an ohm meter?  There are 2 heating elements (T on the schematic) and they are connected in series so if either one has failed it will prevent the other from working. The RM1350 uses two AC heaters wired in series. The ohms resistance should be 34.3 ohms +/- 10%. When working properly they should draw about 3.5a. 

If you look at section 10 or the manual it lists error codes that your refrigerator has. If you have not checked those, you may want to do that.  On the same page is a diagnostic section that may help.

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

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    To help you to figure this out the easiest, you need a volt meter for 12vdc, 110 vac and a Ac amp meter.

   If I was there as a Mobile rv tech, as I would do. I would turn off the fridge. Disconnect the Ac power supply cord. Remove the plastic cover from the board.

   Then just for a quick test I would put the Ac amp meter on one of the wires going to the heating element.

  Plug the power cord in. Turn you fridge on .  Set it to the gas mode. The gas has to be igniting and staying lit.    This will prove the unit is calling for cooling.  If it is not coming on, set it to the coolest setting. If the gas is not coming on, then you need to warm the thermistor up inside the fridge.  It will be mounted on the fins on the back of the inside of the fridge.

  Once the unit is burning on gas, turn it to the Ac setting. Then with your meter already claimed on the wire from the board to the heating element. See if there is any amperage draw. It does not matter which wire you do to start with. If there is amperage draw on that wire then that element is working. Now if there is no draw on it. Then the next thing to do would be to check another  wire for amperage draw. Now the first wire you tested was to one of the elements.    You need to find a wire to the other element. Those wires should be from left to right, left two wires are powered from the board, the two right wires are ground wires.  Testing the other element may show it is good or bad. I have seen one element not working and cause the unit not to cool.

   Or the other thing you can do is test for Ac voltage on both sides of the Ac fuse. Do not touch the fuse when Ac power is supplied to the fridge. I have seen fuses test good, pass voltage.    But not pass amperage  Installing a new fuse is simple and quick.

   After I typed this out. I thought, is the power where the fridge is plugged in. Prove it has power first.

  It would best to read a manual on this unit also before you start testing things.

 

    Vern

 

   

 

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