Volvo Radiator Drain Hose

[SuiteSuccess]

Bit the bullet and ordered the hose from OTRperformance.  If anyone wishes to use it while at the ECR please let me know and I will bring it.  Likely to be a one maybe two time use for me but still cheaper than $90/hr  labor charge just to drain and replace coolant.

[Sculptor]

On 2/5/2019 at 11:23 AM, SuiteSuccess said:

Bit the bullet and ordered the hose from OTRperformance.  If anyone wishes to use it while at the ECR please let me know and I will bring it.  Likely to be a one maybe two time use for me but still cheaper than $90/hr  labor charge just to drain and replace coolant.

I am suddenly losing coolant also.   I like my information in one place if possible so risking a slight detour to MY D13 cooling system.  I hope it's ok with you Carl.

I also ordered the OTR drain hose but haven't used it yet.

Last month a friend told me I lost a spot of coolant on the road in front of his house so keep an eye on it.  We drove from his place to ours about 300 miles.  A few days later I drove it to work and got the STOP low coolant warning.  I dumped 2 gallons of coolant in and drove home.  a week or 2 later I started up and idled in the driveway but after 5 minutes I saw the warning again and shut down immediately.

Reservoir is empty but looking at the engine hoses I'm still not able to see where the leak might be.  The driveway is gravel.  There was a bit if moisture under the low passenger side hose but barely noticeable.

1. After a closer look, I'm not convinced its any of the main hoses.
2. I found a mouse nest on the passenger side of the engine block (behind the turbo) near where I saw moisture.  CHEWING HOSES?
3. Today I will check the oil for water, forgot yesterday.
4. Will attempt to drain the coolant
5. Checked inside the cab under the bunk.  DRY
6. Fill with tap water, warm it up and see what happens.  NEAR FREEZING AT NIGHT EXPECTED for two nights

Mostly about coolant leak locations,  Last 3 minutes is regen complaints.

Solution here is buy a dye kit with a black light and check hot, check cold, check after running.

https://solutions.letstruck.com/Answers/View/4593/2011+Volvo+D13+Coolant+loss

Im still looking for the thermostat and volume info for the D13.  I can buy housings all day long but hoping for more specific youtube demonstration or diagrams?  Any info is appreciated.  Again apologies to Carl for hijacking.

http://www.hhrvresource.com/VolvoDocsGenII/Volvo Engine Manuals/D13/Cooling System Troubleshooting.pdf

http://www.hhrvresource.com/VolvoDocsGenII/Volvo Engine Manuals/D13/Thermostat Replacement.pdf

Edited April 1, 2019 by Sculptor

[Darryl&Rita]

When someone tells you to keep an eye on a leak, they usually mean it. Leaks don't get better with time. Find a big piece of cardboard, take a long enough ride to get to temps, put the cardboard underneath. Let it sit overnight, and check the spots in the morning. All this assumes the leak is external to the engine, but will also prove/disprove external leaks. 

[Sculptor]

1 hour ago, Darryl&Rita said:

When someone tells you to keep an eye on a leak, they usually mean it. Leaks don't get better with time. Find a big piece of cardboard, take a long enough ride to get to temps, put the cardboard underneath. Let it sit overnight, and check the spots in the morning. All this assumes the leak is external to the engine, but will also prove/disprove external leaks. 

Thanks Darryl, I admit I didn't keep an eye on it.  I have never had a leak (in a car of course) sneak up so fast.   I just came in from looking and draining etc.  NOT SURE but it looks like the level sensor is the leak point.   I am on the internet again trying to decide if caulking the sensor in place is worth it, or should I buy a new reservoir?  

No water in the oil.

Drained about 8 gallons out just to find out how much was still in there.  I can't seem to find the capacity but that might be because the sleeper heater is my configuration but there are other configurations out there obviously.  The Resource Guide pegs the D12 engine at 11 gallons.  

From a document named Body Builder instructions, which I couldn't find the link to right away.   Cooling System Capacities .....  Approximately 53 US quarts (50 liters) with a manual transmission For an automatic transmission, add 10 quarts (9.5 liters)  We have an IShift auto so 15.75 gallons.  It doesn't refer to accessories.

Edited April 1, 2019 by Sculptor

[Sculptor]

Link to related post added: http://www.rvnetwork.com/topic/135696-volvo-d13-coolant-leak/
Click For Full-Size Image.

 

Edited June 1, 2019 by Sculptor

[noteven]

Also pay attention to the correct refill / purge procedures for your system. Many cooling systems are not fill and slap the rad cap on anymore 🙂.

[rickeieio]

1 hour ago, noteven said:

Also pay attention to the correct refill / purge procedures for your system. Many cooling systems are not fill and slap the rad cap on anymore 🙂.

Yes, when I changed all my coolant lines last year, I did the flush, and then took it to the local dealer for the final flush/fill.  Mainly because I didn't have the high dollar Mack/Volvo drain.

[HERO Maker]

Well, resurrect this one for a little while.

Just picked up my upper and lower hose, thermostat and associated gaskets and O rings.  A mechanic told me that the filter housing is leaking, but Volvo said it is probably only an o-ring and not the housing.  That's  good news - the housing is a $600 part!

Was told I should consider another flush (after the one when the injector cup failed) but to follow it up with water flushes at least 3 times before refilling with coolant.  $204 per flush.  Coolant and flush extra!

I'm going to nurse it back down to the valley and then consider what to do.  It used two gallons during a 1500 mile trip.  It did have a crack in the res. tank.  That was replaced in CA.  Hoping it's just the leak at the filter now.

[Sculptor]

8 hours ago, HERO Maker said:

It did have a crack in the res. tank.  That was replaced in CA.  Hoping it's just the leak at the filter now.

Hi Heromaker,  when searching, I assumed the tank would be expensive, I found out there seems to be a large range of prices, and MINE is expensive.  I hope yours wasn't too bad.  (My problem turned out to be the over pressure cap, not the tank). When I removed the filter the gasket had a fair amount of grime but no leaks, so maybe that's all with yours?  Good luck!

[HERO Maker]

Thanks.  We arrived in the Rio Grande Valley just a little bit ago.  Yes, I know - wrong time to be here!  Will be looking at it more tomorrow.   Maybe.

[HERO Maker]

I did have our mechanic look at the system and get prepared for a flush.  He was the first guy to hook up an air hose to the cap and pressurize the system.  Yep. You could just hear some bubbling happening in the upper driver side of the  radiator.  Replaced with plastic (or whatever it may be), $$420, and some thought it might be a PEX product.  That would be nice if it were, but probable not.  Replaced the thermostat and we will see how it does.