Leveling your Class A

[Wizards&OZ]

Does anybody know of any YouTube videos or websites that explain how to properly level your Class A RV with leveling blocks? The RV we will use has automatic leveling jacks, but don't we need to use leveling blocks under the tires on occasion? What's the process look like and how do you do it properly? 

[Ray,IN]

Normally planks or blocks underneath tires are not needed, for those few times they are needed, it will be for front tires. Never raise the rear tires off the ground, because they are the only wheels that hold the MH in place when parked. Leveling jacks alone will not hold the MH from moving, and are likely to be damaged when the MH moves.

If I'm assigned a site that is low in back I request a different site. However, most CG workers know about this situation and do not assign such a site.

If the jacks cannot level the MH, drive onto planks under the front tires, then level with the jacks, which too may require planks underneath fronts to obtain level.

[sandsys]

Never extend your jacks beyond their normal length of travel. I'm so glad we were parked at the curb next to a repair shop when our jack disassembled itself into a gutter.

Linda Sand

[Kirk W]

I have owned a class A that didn't have leveling jacks and also one that had jacks but they were manual control. My first suggestion is to ignore the videos posted as they are good for trailers as they were intended, but a motorhome is leveled much differently. The second point is that with your motorhome the procedure is not the same if you have a 3 jack system as it is for a 4 jack system. While 4 jacks can be more stable, a 3 jack system is more simple because you use the front single jack to raise the front if needed, then use the two back jacks to level side to side. As previously mentioned, if a lot is very sloped it is better that it stope to the front of the motorhome. While I prefer to keep all wheels touching the ground or some blocks that are under them, it is critical that the rear wheels are not suspended in the air because the park function of the transmission and the parking brake both only lock the rear wheels. The actual procedures also can be different for different manufacturer's motorhomes because some want you to extend slides before leveling and others after. I suggest you follow the manufacturer's recommendations. The controls are also different from one brand jack to another. In simple terms, you very seldom will need to use any blocks under your wheels and I usually avoided sites that required them. Most leveling jacks will not lift the wheels clear of the ground unless you use blocks under them to increase the amount of lift. I suggest that you visit Youtube and do a search for using the leveling system that your coach has. I would also avoid sites that are visibly unlevel at first until you have a little experience using your system. 

In general, you should lower the jacks until they just touch, then raise the lowest side or end first, then the other side/end. If you have 4 jacks, always level with pairs, either both jacks on the same end or both jacks on the same side. If your system is automatic, it should be programmed to do that. Gas powered motorhomes have some flexibility in the frame (diesels are much heavier) and so you should use some care not to put things into a twist. That is also the reason that I prefer not to lift wheels completely clear of the ground, although some owner do so. The Ford chassis manual of our coach recommended against that and being very conservative, I used blocks under the low wheels on the rare occasion that we parked where the slope was so severe that it was needed.