Transmission Sensors Info

[SuiteSuccess]

Wanted to post this as possible information help to others.  If you read my other post about the trials and tribulations of my output speed sensor on an Eaton -Fuller Ultrashift transmission, you’ll know it can be a pain in the *** to replace.  However, today I went for a long drive in the truck and I would swear I had a brand new transmission in the truck.  Up shifts and downshifts were smooth and felt very synchronized.  Backing revealed no bucking at all, a problem I had been fighting since purchasing the truck.  It was just as smooth.  Since my sensor had rusted in place and apparently leaked around the “O” ring it is obvious it was trying to fail for awhile.  My thoughts are that the ECM was getting a signal from the sensor that was probably erratic and it did its best to interpret that signal to mesh gears but that caused it to search some.  The new sensor is giving a good consistent signal to the ECM and it now meshes more precisely when shifting.  The sensor was $49 so may be worth a try to replace if your truck is shifting rough.  As Desert Miner suggested, I’m going to probably replace the other two soon but it will require coming from top through cab access panel and will be another tough job.  

Any thoughts on my conjecture?

[Nigel]

I think mine made the gear shifts quicker after I changed mine but I thought it must be in my head.  For a hundred dollars in parts it is probably worth changing  the other two out now and they should be good for another twelve years but don’t expect them to come out of their bores any easier.  Maybe do it in David’s driveway. 

 

Nigel

[Jim & Wilma]

Great message Carl.  Also, great fun when our efforts are rewarded.

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Might do that when we replace the cab airbags and shocks.

[Moresmoke]

Taking the cab floor panel off is not that bad. Take the passenger seat clear out, then after removing the floor trim, you can roll the floor mat up over the drivers seat.

At least then you are looking down at the loose dirt and not up.

[SuiteSuccess]

18 minutes ago, Moresmoke said:

Taking the cab floor panel off is not that bad. Take the passenger seat clear out, then after removing the floor trim, you can roll the floor mat up over the drivers seat.

At least then you are looking down at the loose dirt and not up.

Yeah have been there before but didn’t remove panel.  Going to have to clean rust from screws on the bottom and spray with penetrant top and bottom as my screws are pretty rusty.  I had to previously remove both seats, and mat to chase a cab water leak.  Turns out it was a “through “ hole from the engine compartment to cab that did not have a plug or grommet.

This is passenger side, under mat, at floor.  Below it is plugged.

Here is my panel.  You can see the corrosion I’ll have to tackle.

 

 

[DesertMiner]

Did that fix your leak you thought was coming from your windshield?

[SuiteSuccess]

10 hours ago, DesertMiner said:

Did that fix your leak you thought was coming from your windshield?

Haha, no that is a separate issue that I’ve addressed already.  One of our forum members is a windshield guy and suggested a small bead of black silicone around the seal.  I’ve done that so we’ll see after next heavy rain.  If not solved I have a new seal I’ll just replace.  I also checked lights and visor etc. and siliconed where I could.

The floor issue was couple of years ago and I kept noticing mat felt squishy on passenger side.  Someone mentioned having moisture under mat so I felt ambitious and pulled mine and sure enough found what I posted.  Couldn’t believe a manufactured access hole had no grommet.  I had seen it from the engine side couple of times but just didn’t register it penetrated cab.  I thought it accessed under the cab for air hoses or something.